Won't go into drive or reverse

Tiny
TONYMCCOMBS
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 160,000 MILES
It wont go into drive or reverse. The gear position lever moves from gear to gear but no movement. This happened before and the car jerked hard upon engagement into gear due to high rpm's. Also it moved forward once when placed into reverse. It don't start in any gear but park and neutral thus eliminating neutral switch. I have seen other complaints about this issue online with no remedy stated and dealers avoid the repair saying they can't duplicate the problem therefore cant fix it. Thanks for any help
Friday, December 28th, 2012 AT 10:16 PM

19 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
If the vehicle can't go into gear, why can't the dealer check it?
Did you check for trouble codes?
How is the condition of the transmission fluid and its level?

Check out the guide below, it will help you figure out whats going on

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems
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Saturday, December 29th, 2012 AT 7:33 PM
Tiny
CARZAV
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
While driving in normal condition I came to a stop. When I accelerated I felt like a snap or a pop and the car jumped out of drive. Try to move the gear shift into drive again it would not gold tried to move it into reverse it would not go in reverse now the car is will only go into neutral or park. No warning lights no check engine light fluid are good no sound it just happened need your help
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
First thing to do is to check if the axle shafts have given way.

Put vehicle in Park and with handbrakes off, try to push the vehicle forward or backwards. It it can move, that would mean the axle shafts have given way.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARZAV
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Ok tried what you said and car will not move when in park with the hand break off.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
That means it is not a fault with the drive axles. It is transmission related and could be due to a failed torque c converter, the transmission itself or its control.

Check for trouble codes to see if you come up with anything.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EDOMAC
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Was driving fine stoped at stop sign and went to take off and car made a grinding noise but would not move, forward or reverse makes same noise in either gear and when in park it still rolls and when in motion makes the same noise it sounds like from in the trany output area please help!
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
May be CV joint inboard if not then problem in differential
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DIYMECHANIC
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 2002 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
My issue is similar to rflusher 2010 issues. I did not see solution posted. Was driving normally and suddenly lost
transmission power and engine revved up. No popping sound just no gears engaging. Car starts up and runs fine. Shifter moves freely but transmission not engaging. Do not feel any positive engaging of gears and car does not drive at all. No engine light.
Possible causes and things to check before towing it to AMMco Transmission? Also is trans swapping a DIY project and if so what issues might I run into such as computer recognition etc? Welcome to copy me in email so I dont miss your valuable input.
Thanks
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
As long as you get the correct trans you shold be ok swapping it out you don't have to do any computer recognition as you aren't replacing the module. If you have done this before then it's pretty much the same on all cars. Check fluid if you can as you may not have any way to check it but with mileage don't be surprised if it's time for a rebuild.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DIYMECHANIC
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Thanks Hmac300.
By the way Do I need to change out the torque converter while I'm at it. Also before the tranny issue there was a small tranny leak(seal blow by) which I just top off the fluid regularly as I was told it was a major job to replace, Do I have to replace this seal when installing a swap out tranny or is this seal already internal?
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
If you are swapping out a trans, the converter should come with it. If it's the pump seal or any outside seals replace them and then lube with Vaseline or KY jelly Make sure your converter is in the pump all the way otherwise if it slips forward it can break the teeth in pump and you'll have to rebuild it. Make sure to use proper fluid or compatible.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAMADAVIS66
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2002 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 97,000 MILES
When it is very cold outside, my automatic transmission will switch to manual. A "1" appears on the dashboard screen and It will need to switch to Neutral and then back to Drive to advance to "2", etc. I have had this car for sixteen months, and it only happens when it is very cold, like in 20's or so, though I think I did drive it about a week ago and it was very cold, but it was also dry outside. This happened today and it is very slushy outside. I do not know if that is the reason, or the cold, or it is dirty and gummed up.

Thank you for any advice. I cannot find a similar situation online, and a couple of mechanics I have spoken with have never heard of this happening.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,468 POSTS
The problem could be that the thermostat is stuck open, does the heater work okay?
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAMADAVIS66
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes, the heater is fine. Everything works except when the temperature is below 20-ish and it is very damp. Someone mentioned an "accumulator" to my husband, I have never heard of that.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,468 POSTS
In older transmissions yes, I do not think they have those in these cars, It could be a speed sensor for the transmission or one of the internal seals is starting to let go and it shows up when it is cold because the seal contracts.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAMADAVIS66
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
We will have that checked, also. Thank you.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,468 POSTS
Looking forward to your reply :-)
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SULOT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.7L
  • V6
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 164,356 MILES
I definitely know it's something with the transmission. I just need to know is what exact parts do I need, how do I get to said parts to be replaced within the transmission(guide on how to), & if this is something fixable or is it time to get a whole new transmission?
I get the following error codes; p1529, p0760, p0765, & p0755.
Thank you.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,869 POSTS
P0755 - Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
P0760 - Shift Solenoid C Malfunction
P0765 - Shift Solenoid D Malfunction
Code 1529 involves the speed sensor circuit

So you think three parts failed at the same time? It is very doubtful this is a transmission problem. You have to look at what all these things have in common, and that is the computer controller and the wiring.

The way to find out which parts are needed, (if any), is what you pay a mechanic to diagnose. There's no way anyone can do that over a computer. As you've already noticed, diagnostic fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're bad. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, or the unacceptable operating condition. There are entire books just for troubleshooting these codes.

The "How To" guide you're looking for is the service manual. Don't waste your money for something like this on Haynes or Chiltons manuals. Those only cover things experienced do-it-yourselfers can handle. You need a copy of the manufacturer's service manual, and their Transmission specialty manual if it is a separate manual. In the Transmission section, you'll find a few hundred pages of information, mostly on diagnosing mechanical problems, and rebuilding procedures, torque specs, line drawings, and special tools needed. There will be pages detailing how to replace the speed sensor and shift solenoids, but usually not information on how to diagnose them, ... Usually. That is left up to the individual systems manuals.

I don't mean to sound like a spoil-sport, but the fastest, least expensive, and most effective way to solve whatever problem you're having is to get a mechanic involved. It sounds like you think removing, disassembling, and repairing an automatic transmission is a simple task, but in fact, less than one or two percent of mechanics specialize in this area. All the rest of us can do is remove and replace them. This is a highly-technical and very specialized field, and you only want someone with plenty of experience tearing your transmission apart.

As an alternative to the service manual, you can go to the top of this page, point to "Service and Repair", then click on "Manuals" to be taken to a page where you can buy a subscription for your vehicle. It will include most of what is in the manufacturer's service manuals, and there will be places where other people have posted what they found to solve various fault codes. That's where I found the speed sensor was replaced for code 1529. Solutions for codes 760 and 765 weren't listed.
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Friday, January 25th, 2019 AT 7:11 PM (Merged)

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