Overheating issue

Tiny
KRAKATOA
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 DODGE INTREPID
  • 130 MILES
2.7 engine.

Car runs great in city, stop and go, very smooth no noises, solid acceleration, etc. It even runs great on the freeway for a short time before the temperature gauge needle starts rocketing up the gauge. Sometimes it actually overheats while other times it just thinks about doing it, and the needle moves down, then up, then down, you get the idea. I always pull over to let it cool down, even if the warning light has not come on yet. If it is getting too close, I will shut it down.

There are no leaks. The only thing that leaks is about a teaspoon of oil when I park the car and have been told the oil pan gasket should be replaced. I need to solve this bizarre overheating issue first (as I do not know that the oil pan gasket leak would have any relationship to the overheating?).

Brand new shop installations (to try and solve the problem):
water pump, thermostat, temperature sensor, radiator, timing belt and adjust, coolant obviously (50/50). I have dumped a lot of cash down this hole already and have only owned the car for two weeks. Drove fine the first few days, then the overheating began and two mechanics and the work done so far have failed to resolve the problem.

Oddly enough, the car ran just fine for the first few days we have had it until I took it in for the California smog test. It passed, but after leaving the shop is when it first overheated and where all these problems began. Any relationship possibilities between being smog checked and the sudden onset of problems?

Mechanic now says it is likely a leak in the head gasket (not 'blown', as it runs so well, but something allowing air/high pressure into the system). There is no mixing of coolant and oil or oil and water, everything is clean. No white smoke out the pipe. Engine runs very smoothly, no hesitations, no roughness at all.

The one thing that strikes me as odd is that, in the morning when I check the coolant reservoir, it is brimming to the very top. It is supposed to be between the minimum and maximum lines well down into the reservoir, right? When filled, that is where it is filled to to the maximum line. So I am wondering why the reservoir is always way up to the top of the neck after cooling down (and maybe even while driving, and maybe that is the problem, if the coolant is somehow getting locked in the reservoir and not getting enough to the engine?). In any case, the reservoir is to the absolute overflow point in the morning (or after any solid cool down period).

When the engine runs hot, there is bubbling in the reservoir and it seems to be holding an awful lot of pressure. Mechanic said after twenty minutes you should be able to remove the cap, but there is high pressure in that reservoir well beyond that. Reservoir is full, bubbling, and spitting out the overflow 'blowhole' on top of the reservoir. Let it sit until fully cool, remove the cap, and there it is in all its glory coolant right up to the very top of the neck.

I have checked the cap and it appears to be okay. It is an aftermarket cap, 16 lbs, 'assembled in Mexico', but not sure what brand it is and the car is down at the shop, so I cannot check.

Cap or head gasket? They seem to be the only two things left. I think if there were any cracks in the head/block/cylinder that performance would not be anywhere as good as it is, and other more dire symptoms would be present. The car runs so well, that is why I am willing to invest a little bit to try and get it back on the highway without worry of overheating.

Thank you in advance for any help. This is a car my son and I picked out, private owner, for him to drive at college. I feel so guilty and like I let him down.
Wednesday, July 13th, 2011 AT 3:46 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Ask your mechanic to do a block test for traces of CO or you can block test kit at NAPA for $40.00 if positive then head gasket as they suspect.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test
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Wednesday, July 13th, 2011 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
SHELTRA ANDERSON
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Just two days ago fix the same problem with my car. I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid 2.7 as well it drives fine in town but after going down the freeway for about maybe ten to fifteen minutes it started to severely overheat. All my mechanic friends kept quoting me pricey repairs told me it was a head gasket, intake gasket, thermostat. I checked all those things and none of them are the problem. Come to find out the recovery cake had a bad seal where you scroll the cap it was not the cap it was the tank. I replaced the tank it took me ten minutes to pull it out and put the new one in. It is only two hoses. The reason this was such a big issue is because since there was not the correct amount of pressure in the recovery tank it was sucking in air Intrepid have air pressure cooling system. What is an air pocket gets in there once it hit that engine it stops it is like a roadblock so no coolant or water was getting to the engine that is why it is overheating there are two bleeder valves one on each side of your thermostat you have to bleed the air out of them. I followed the hoses to what is called the PVC valve and that needs to be replaced. You can tell by looking around the outside of the valve and you can see that there is oils build up but only around that specific valves which is all so simple it is an $8.00 part you pull it out you replace it you put it back in it only takes five minutes. Since then I have driven down the freeway doing eighty miles an hour just to push it to see and is not overheated once my problem has been fixed.
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Tuesday, June 5th, 2018 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,690 POSTS
Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site. :)

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, June 7th, 2018 AT 8:13 PM

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