My Gauges don't work wny?

You may have a problem in the power control module and check that the fuse voltage is ok, unfortunately there is very little info on fault finding this particular problem, i see there is a BUS line is there any set fault codes?

mark (mhpautos)

I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan..Runs great.But My speedometer,gas gauge,odometer does not work.My Dash lights works.I took it to a auto part store,they got 2 codes.1 is P 1698= TCM The other was egr.What Does the Transmission Control Module do and where is it located?

check fuses for d gauges first as it may be the cluster is bad and needs rebuilding. the tcm controls the transmission also check for rubbed through wires on transmission might have a broken trans mount. unplug trans mount and pucheck for corrosion, put dielectric compound and reassemble. if stuck in 2nd gear get back to us because you may have to fix one of the connections. finally check battery for condition including load test. see pic for location

BCM is good we had it tested. They said the BOS was not registering anything. checked all fuses. changed out insturment panel still does not work. fuel gauge out, speedometer not working, temp gauge out, rpms are fine, mileage not changing. rear wipers out, ac/heat blows does not get hot or cold. please help mechanics are baffled.

let me ask you this, does the ilumination work on the dash? at night? and you already replaced that entire module(gauges)?

no will not illuminate. interior lights stay on unless turned off completely. changed out dash module

the body control module is what controls the dash illumination and gauges, I dont know what these people are talking about, the bcm checks out ok.

we had it hooked up to sensor and it all checked ok. the only thing that wouldnt even come up was the gauges on dash

doesnt that prove there is something wrong with it?, it either that or the cluster and you said you've replaced that, or the connection from the cluster to the harnass.

cluster gauges are inop i install new bcm & new cluster need help!

Three fuses, must be ok, check them using a test light or voltmeter to make sure you have voltage on boyh sides of the fuse, with the cluster lights turned on.
Under the hood in the power distribution center, the lid has information, fuse 28 is a 10 amp. Inside on the left side under the dash are two, a 10 amp number 2 and a 20 amp number 6. I believe. Thanks and good luck, do the part numbers match? the pink wire at the cluster should have power with the BCM plugged in and the fuse being ok. It may need a scanner to reset it also, check both those fuse locations, all 3 fuses. good luck

Passenger and driver windows don't work sometime vent windows don't open and instrument panel goes out on occasion

After looking over the wiring diagram for you car I would say the body control module is bad. See the body control module controls the power to those and a few other things.

Hi, we have a 1999 Dodge Caravan and sometimes the speedometer and gages will not work. We would like to know if their is a way we could reset this so it could work again.

do you have a check engine light on?

Possible options would be to check the fuse inside the car underneath the steering wheel area, there is one for the gauges, and if that isn't the problem, it's very likely the speed sensor that is malfunctioning.

nice xxrawrxx, one more thing to add to my firends comment, the body control module if all else fails will be the culprit. there are several possibilities here

I started my van and none of my gauges work

Start by checking under the dash. Make sure the wiring harness to the cluster is tight and connected. If that is good, you may have a bad cluster. Power will need to be checked to the cluster, ground as well.

Read the guide below on using a meter for testing

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter


The wiring diagrams for the instrument cluster are attached below

All dash gauges, speedo and PRNDL are inop. Electrical connectors, fuses and relays under dash and under hood have been checked. Dash Cluster has been replaced. Body computer under dash electrical connectors have been checked.On occasion the cluster will come on at start up and operate for a short time or possibly all day, with 3-4 restarts. Most of the time cluster is in-op 90 % of the time. Could this be a corroded ground connection?

Any help you provide would be greatly appreciated. I was a certified auto technician years ago and I am currently on disability.

Hello,

This happens when the BCM goes out here are instructions in the diagrams below on how to change it out. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Hello;

Thanks for your response,

As to your Questions.
Yes this is a Grand Caravan
Turn signal indicators do work when dash is in-op
Trip info and odometer and PRNDL are digital and are
blank, in-op when dash is not operating. 604 OD Trans

This AM morning, Dash is operating on first attempt.

I did remove left and right kick panels and dash
components to gain access to cluster.
I have not found any ground connection wires on
either side from sill plate to lower dash.( Grd. location? )
Do I need to check terminal #7 and #13 with cluster attached or just at plug with cluster removed?

Thank You
Lee Babcock

Check unpluged from pin to body ground

Hello;

Cluster removed,
Checked cluster plug at pin #7 and #13
Both are complete circuit to ground showing 12-50 ohm
that is with key on and key off.

Lee Babcock

As long as dash is working no test will tell what is wrong. When it is not working check for voltage on term. #2 Pink wire , term. # 6 Orange and term. #10 blue/white wire. Grounds are good.

Hello Again;

After ground checks, installed cluster and was in-op

voltage tests, term.2 -- 12. volts, term #6 -- 0 volts
term#10, --2.5 volts

Thanks again
Lee Babcock

)O.K. #6 comes from BCM TERM # 2 so NBCM is the intermittent fault

Six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 175,000 miles.

My instrument cluster is not working. It has been an intermittent problem for the past two years. Now it has been off for two weeks. I am getting Code P0743 and P0140 scanned.

I know that P0140 is an oxygen sensor. Is the P0743 related to the instrument cluster? P0743 says it is the torque converter clutch/solenoid circuit. Do you think replacing the instrument cluster circuit board would fix the problem?

You may have a bad solder joint on the back of the instrument cluster board.there are plenty of videos on how to fix it and it's easy

Does your vehicle have ABS? If so, when the panel is not working, does the ABS warning light come on and stay on full-time?

If so, I just recently solved the same problem on my 1998 Grand Caravan Sport. For about a year or so, the instrument panel would occasionally go dead (just the odometer and gauges panel illumination worked, as did the various warning and indicator lights in the strip above the panel except as noted below), but could be brought back to life with a well-placed thump on the dash with a rubber mallet.

Eventually, it quit working completely. Any time the panel was dead, the ((ABS)) warning light was on full-time while the engine was running. Sometimes the check engine light would come on, but would eventually go out on its own. I had the codes checked once at AutoZone. They said it was complaining about the EGR system, but the engine runs just fine. I am not positive, but I suspect that the error codes were a just side-effect of the malfunctioning panel.

As it turned out, the problem was caused by a poor solder joint on the instrument cluster circuit board, where the socket for the chassis wiring connector is attached to the board.

If you have already had the thing apart far enough to get the panel out. try just wiggling the connector around with the ignition switch in the "run" position (second detent) and see if you can get the panel to light up. I got mine to the point where merely tapping the side of the connector with my fingertip would make the panel kick in and out.

Note: With the panel disconnected, you should read twelve volts on the pink lead in the chassis wiring connector with the ignition key in the "on" position. If not, the problem lies elsewhere.

If so, and you know how to use a soldering iron, you should be able to fix it yourself.

1. Remove the Phillips-head screws that hold the protective cardboard panel on the back of the module and remove the panel.

2. Remove the Phillips-head screws that hold the board in place.

(Note: All of these screws are the same size, so no worrying about which one goes where. It's been a while since I had it apart, but I believe there are a total of twelve screws, six for the protective panel, six for the board itself)

3. "Carefully" remove the ribbon cable from the connector at the bottom center of the circuit board. It should just pull straight out of the socket, but be careful not to bend the thing around too much once you get it loose.

4. Snap the board out of the module so you can get at the back side of it. (There are spring-loaded connectors on board that snap over the pins on the backs of the gauges just pull the board straight out the back of the module).

5. On the back side of the circuit board, touch up all of the solder joints that connect the chassis connector pins to the board. Reheat them just enough to get the existing solder to flow and apply a "very small" amount of fresh rosin-core solder.

(I am assuming that you know what a proper solder joint looks like no "blobs" or "whiskers").

Caution is the word here, do not apply too much heat or the circuit traces will peel away from the board. Allow each pin to cool before touching up the next.

6. Snap the board back into place over the pins on the gauges.

7. Reconnect the ribbon cable at the bottom.

8. Replace the screws that hold the board in the module. Finger-tight is plenty, you are putting metal screws into plastic holes. You do not want to either strip the holes or crack the board.

9. Reattach the protective cardboard panel.

10. Connect the module to the chassis wiring harness and test it before you screw it back into place in the vehicle (i.e., save yourself the hassle of wrestling it in and back out again if it does not work!). The odometer should turn on at the first detent of the ignition switch, and the gauges should come to life at the second detent.

10. If the panel works, the ABS warning light should go out, and the check engine light may go out after you've started the engine a couple of times. Mine did, and has not come back on since. If you want, read the codes and reset the light, then wait and see if it comes on again.

Good luck!

Greg.

I rechecked #6 terminal at cluster with key on, 0 volts.
I installed the original cluster. Cluster still in-op
Is the body computer located behind the fuse panel, lower left dash?
If so, Where do I find #2 term ( there are 2 wiring plugs ) and standing on
My head under the dash with a bad back is, well its painful.
While I was poking around, checking fuses. I checked under the hood
Fuses and breakers. I removed the IOD, 10 amp fuse and EBL, 40 amp
Max fuse, now cluster is working again. What does the EBL Fuse supply?
Where does the BCM get its + voltage?

Thanks
Lee Babcock

BCM gets power from ignition and fuse #28 in Power Dist. Center underhood. BCM at junction box left side. Connector is E2 Orange wire 14 gague CHRY shows connector going into box #8 but at BCM it is #2. Don't think a fuse is going to help BCM must supply voltage if it was a fuse dash would be out all the time. Two fuses mentioned have nothing to do with BCM

Hello Docfixit;

It turns out you were right with the BCM I had to get a new one cost me $340.00. FYI

Thanks Again
Lee Babcock

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

All my instruments went out, all fuses look ok. What could this be and how can i fix it ??
Thanks!!!

It could be a few things. First, check the easiest things. Make sure the plugs in the rear of the panel are tight and in good condition. Next, if all looks good, then you need to have the BCM tested.

NOTE: Have you checked the fuses under the dash and the ones in the power distribution box under the hood? I believe there is a 40amp fuse under the hood that takes care of the inst panel. Also, just to make sure I understand, the gauges stopped working and not just the lights... correct? I worked on one yesterday that the right parking lights didn't work and none of the dash would light. I found a shorted wire to the right front signal / parking light and fixed it. Then the signals worked but no dash lights. After replacing a 15 amp fuse for the right parking lights, everything started working. Nothing is mentioned anywhere about the two circuits being tied together unless you spend an hour looking at schematics. And I still don't understand why there has to be 2 circuits (one for left and the other right) for the park lights. They don't make things easy.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Thanks! I will check...or have my husband check!
Thank you!!!!

Let me know what you find. Also, most of the vans have a cover over the fuse panel under the dash. THere are two plastic clips / screws. Just turn them a 1/4 turn and the will come off.

Joe

1998 Dodge Caravan 3.3L engine: The instrument panel (gauges) are not working. That was the condition it was in when I picked it up from a shop about 2 hours ago. It took three weeks for this shop to find the fuse box- "one that works," and when they told me it was running (today) I went and picked it up just to get it out of there. Anyway, I am trying to research this issue, and any help would mean the world to me!
Thank You!
CarWars247
p.s. One more question: are the gauges in a 1998 dodge caravan all ran in one fuse, or separate fuses?
If separate fuses, would it be more common or rare that all gauges in dash would go out at once?

They get power from different areas. The most common problem is a bad cluster.