I cannot find the upper housing Bolt for the starter

You have to be a contortionist to find the hidden one. You'll need a socket and an extension to get at it. It's there.

I haven't done one on this exact make and model before. But have done them from underneath on Caravans. The first image below is for the 2.4 liter engine. The rest are for the 3.3 and 3.8

If you have the little silver Nippendenso starter, it only uses two bolts. It has a locating peg in its third hole. Don't install a used starter. The contacts in the solenoid commonly wear down and can be replaced inexpensively. A used starter is likely to have the same problem.

My pleasure. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

You must have washed your hands before taking this picture. My hands have never been that clean after changing a starter on a Mopar product.

That depends on what broke. Is it the mounting tabs that secure the solenoid to the starter? On the solenoid or on the starter? If it's just the solenoid, you can replace the solenoid.

Can you get a picture of the broken part in the van?

That's integral to the starter. Not sure exactly what kind of mechanical connection to the terminal is made, but an adhesive should be able to be used to keep the plastic parts together. And to seal the connection from the elements.

Dielectric grease maybe. Not really. I'd see if the physical electrical/mechanical connection can be strengthened and then use a rubber adhesive to seal out water and grease.

I think he's referring to silicone gasket sealer. I'm very familiar with two products from the Chrysler dealer. The gray stuff gets harder and will seal and bond even if there's some oil residue on the surfaces. That's good for oil and transmission pans. The black stuff stays more rubbery and will not bond through any oil residue. Either one will seal out moisture and hold the broken plug together. You'll be able to pull it apart easily the next time if you have to, and you can peel off the sealant.

I'm sure other dealers and auto parts stores have the same kinds of sealers with their own names on the tubes, but it's the Chrysler ones I'm familiar with. You might even ask at any dealership, if you can find a mechanic to talk with, if he has an almost-empty tube he will give you so you don't have to buy one. Once the tubes are opened, the stuff cures on its own after a few months so it's not something you want sitting around for those "just in case" moments. I use this stuff all the time to hold things together. If even works well for sealing arcing high voltage transformers in picture tube-type tvs!

Anything that says "silicone" on the label will work. I use the gray stuff more because I have more of it. Rather than write up a bill for a minor radio repair, I ask for tubes of gasket sealer or other spray-can chemicals in trade. The parts guys just bill it to a shop ticket they turn in once a month for stuff used in the shop that doesn't get billed on a customer's ticket.

This stuff builds up like a ball of rubber and stays in whatever shape you make it. It's just like the caulk you can buy at Home Depot but it has to say "Silicone". You'll probably pay the same for a whole caulking tube as for a small tube at the dealer, but I'd rather see you get a quarter-full tube for free if possible. Just coat enough on the wire so it sticks when cured and coat enough on the plastic connector body, and run the two together. Think of it as gluing on a rubber band between the two parts; a really fat rubber band.