I noticed when I was sitting.

I DOUBT THE OIL PRESSURE ISSUE IS RELATED TO THE "NO START" ISSUE

LET'S START OUT WITH THE "NO START"......LET'S BE 100% SURE THE BATTERY IS GOOD....A POPULAR AUTO PARTS STORE MAY LOAD TEST IT FOR FREE........PIC 1

OK--LINKING YOU TO WHAT TO CHECK

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

HOPEFULLY IT WILL START NOW

..................BACK TO THE OIL PRESSURE

AS FAR AS OIL PRESSURE---MANY TIMES AN ELECTRIC GAUGE CAN BE INACCURATE---THE BEST AND MOST ACCURATE IS A MECHANICAL GAUGE (SEE PIC 2)

YOU CAN REMOVE THE OIL SENDER AND INSTALL A TEMPORARY MECHANICAL GAUGE, A LONG TUBE WILL LET YOU BRING IT FROM UNDER THE HOOD, AND ON THE DASH OR THE SEAT BESIDE YOU. YOU CAN THEN MONITOR WHAT EXACTLY IS HAPPENING AS YOU DRIVE.

IMMA PLUMBER, I HAVE A BOILER TYPE GAUGE ADAPTED TO A PLASTIC TUBE WITH A FITTING FOR THE ENGINE END. AUTO PARTS STORES HAVE THE SAME SORTA SYSTEM WITH A "PERTTY" GAUGE THAT YOU CAN MOUNT UNDER THE DASH---YOU DON'T HAVE TO MOUNT IT, JUST USE IT TEMPORARY (GET ONE YOU LIKE, JUST IN CASE YOU DO WANT TO MOUNT IT!)....SEE MY LINK BELOW....THIS HAS UNDER DASH MOUNT, IF NEED BE

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_mechanical-oil-pressure-gauge-sunpro_9030034-p?searchTerm=oil+pressure+gauge

THESE KITS COME WITH EITHER A COPPER TUBE, OR A PLASTIC TUBE---I RECOMMEND THE PLASTIC FOR A TEMPORARY USE. VIBRATIONS AND ENGINE TORQUE TEND TO BREAK THE COPPER. I LIKE THEM WITH A "FULL CLOCK FACE", AS PRESSURE CHANGES HAPPEN THE NEEDLE TRAVELS MORE

ONCE YOU SEE TRUE OIL PRESSURE, MOST OF THE TIME IT IS A SENDER PROBLEM--SOMETIMES IT'S THE GAUGE IN YOUR DASH

THIS "MECHANICAL TEST" (ABOVE) IS WHERE PEOPLE DIFFER IN OPINION ON WHAT TO DO

"I" WANNA KNOW WHAT MY PRESSURE REALLY IS!!!!......IS IT THE SAME AS THE FACTORY ELECTRIC GAUGE?

SOME PEOPLE JUST SLAP IN ANOTHER SENDER.....IT'S EITHER A "GOOD FIX" OR YOU JUST WASTED YOUR MONEY, AND HAVE THE SAME DEAL GOING.............YOU STILL MAY HAVE TO TRY A MECHANICAL GAUGE!

MOST OF THE TIME IT'S A ---THE SENDER IS CHEAP (WE'LL LOOK)---I'LL JUST MESS WITH THIS, ONE TIME, AND BE DONE!

IT'S UP TO YOU!.............WEIGH IT OUT

OK ............SENDER LOOKS TO BE THE SAME ONE FOR ALL THREE ENGINES AVAILABLE FOR YOUR RIG

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Suggest&langId=-1&searchTerm=oil+pressure+switch%2Fsender&vehicleIdSearch=146164&searchedFrom=header

AND SOMETIMES THE READINGS ARE EXACTLY THE SAME W/ THE MECHANICAL, AS WITH THE ELECTRIC ONE YOU ARE QUESTIONING......IN THIS CASE, ENGINE WEAR IS PROBABLY THE PROBLEM.

WITH MY 1977 CJ 5, YEARS AGO (BEFORE I FINALLY REBUILT THE ENGINE),MY PRESSURE HAD DWINDLED SOME OVER THE YEARS TO ABOUT 20 PSI, INSTALLING A $109 "HIGH VOLUME" OIL PUMP WAS THE CURE FOR MANY YEARS. I WAS TOLD BY A LOCAL PRODUCTION ENGINE MACHINE SHOP OWNER (A FRIEND) THAT "4 PSI" WILL SUFFICIENTLY LUBRICATE AN ENGINE.

PERSONALLY, I WOULD NOT PREFER "MINE" TO BE LESS THAN 20 PSI.

AFTER BREAKING MY PRESENT ENGINE IN (ABOUT 3 OIL CHANGES --9000 MILES FOR ME) I SUBSTITUTE A QUART OF "LUCAS OIL STABILIZER" (REG, NOT THE SYNTHETIC) FOR ONE OF MY NORMAL 5 QUARTS OF OIL. THIS USED TO COST ME ABOUT AN EXTRA $7 OR SO EACH AND EVERY CHANGE....ABOUT $12 NOW!

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer-32-oz-lucas-oil-products_7080005-p?searchTerm=lucas+oil+products

THIS 258 6 CYL NOW HAS ABOUT 210,000 MILES ON IT. EVERY OTHER JEEP ENGINE I HAD IN THE PAST, LASTED A LITTLE OVER 100,000 MILES BEFORE THEY NEEDED TO BE REBUILT.

MY PRESENT ENGINE DOES NOT BURN OIL--COLD OIL PRESSURE STARTS AT ABOUT 60 PSI--HOT IT DROPS TO 50 PSI, MY VACUUM AT IDLE IS A STEADY 21 Hg.

I THINK IT'S BEEN WORTH THE EXTRA $7-$12 OVER THE YEARS!

LEMME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND

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