The only hose available has the bracket for the height sensor. You just don't use that when the car doesn't have that option. You treat the rest of the procedure just like on any other car.
The most important thing to watch for is when bleeding the circuit, do not push the brake pedal more than halfway to the floor. I only gravity-bleed brake systems. That involves waiting for the air bubbles to stop, then I "irritate" the brake pedal a little, open the bleeder once more to let that last few little bubbles out, and I'm done. Many people think you have to use a helper to stomp on the brake pedal to bleed the system. If you do that, tell them to stop when they get halfway to the floor and never go any further.
Crud and corrosion build up in the lower halves of the bores the pistons ride in. By pushing the brake pedal all the way down, the lip seals ride over that crud and get ripped. That results in no brakes to two wheels or a slowly-sinking brake pedal when you hold steady pressure on it.
The hose is the same whether the car has anti-lock brakes or not, and there's nothing special that needs to be done compared to working with a regular brake system. No adjustment should be needed for the ride control as long as the bracket on the new hose is the same as on the old one. That should not be a problem. They take that into account when they design the replacement hose.
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Monday, February 17th, 2014 AT 9:32 PM
