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01 CRV EX 5spd P0505 Code

Tiny
01CRVTOPEKA
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CRV
  • 4 CYL
  • AWD
  • MANUAL
Hello,

I purchased an 01 CRV EX 5spd last month. It has approximately 138k on it at the moment. I've adjusted the valves, checked my spark plugs & wires. Recently my ck engine light came on while my idle kept surging between 1000 & 1200 RPM. My mechanic said he cleaned the IACV and adjusted my idle before I had the valves adjusted. After the valves were adjusted I had this idling problem. I have followed the steps to troubleshooting the issues. I disconnected the IACV while the engine was running, and my idle dropped down to 750 RPM. Once I plugged the connector back in on the IACV, the idle started jumping around. I took the IACV off, and the screen was clean as a whistle. I put the IACV back on, and sprayed the TB cleaner and did not notice any changes in the RPM's. I went through and performed the idle relearn process, and also checked my coolant levels which appear to be ok. Does anyone have any suggestions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to spend $200 on an IACV if that truly isn't the issue.

Thank you
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 6:41 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
I think you have the valves too tight. If it was ok before your valve adjustment, then you need to look at what you did. Double check your work. Make sure you did not leave off any vacuum leaks.

Roy
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
01CRVTOPEKA
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Lol, unfortunately the idle was not ok before the adjustment. It's been a nightmare since I bought the car. Before the adjustment, my idle would get real low, and would almost stall. The CEL came on, and listed the typical misfire codes. I took it to one mechanic, and he said my valves were ok and didn't need to be adjusted. He replaced the rotar, and charged me $300 for the test and the part. My car was still having the idle issue, and I took it to another mechanic. He stated that they cleaned the IACV, and adjusted my idle. He stated that he couldn't find what the problem was, but was still getting the misfire codes. Nobody was listening to me, so I did my own valve adjustment. I set the valves on the loose side of the specs as everyone suggested on the forums. At that time I noticed the idle started bumping up & down, and the CEL came back on. I took it to Autozone, and they said it was the P0505 code and that I need to replace the IACV. So that's where I'm at as of right now.
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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You said when you removed the wires, it went to 750 RPM. Little high, should be around 500-550. When the valve was disconnected and the idle went down, was it a steady idle or surging?

Roy
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
01CRVTOPEKA
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It was a steady idle, around 750. The minute I plugged the iacv back in I heard the idle going up & down. I didn't mention this before, but the p0505 code didn't appear until after the valve adjustment.
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 7:54 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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The P0505 could have been triggerred when you disconnected the IAC. Clear the codes and retest.

Check for broken wires at the IAC if the CEL is stillindicating.

I agree with ASEMaster6371 that the valves could be the cause of the problem. Were the valves adjusted with cold engine?
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
01CRVTOPEKA
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Yes, the valves were adjusted on a cold engine.
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 9:23 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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What clearance did you use?
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 9:30 PM
Tiny
01CRVTOPEKA
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.008 for exhaust and.005 for the intake.
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 9:32 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Those are correct.

For the IAC, If the CEL keeps coming on, you have 3 [possible scenarios.

1. Bad IAC.
2. Wiring circuit problem.
3. Bad ECU.

A shorted IAC can cause the ECU to go bad as well so changing one component might not solve the problem.

I believe you can get the IAC from the junk yard at a much cheaper price.
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 9:46 PM
Tiny
01CRVTOPEKA
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Lol, thank you for verifying I had the correct specs on the valves. I was so upset that everyone was dismissing that the valves needed to be adjusted. Nobody would do it, and they told me that hondas don't need valves adjusted. I was leafy doing it, but I followed the directions and checked the clearance four times before bolting the valve cover. I will check on a used iacv and go from there. Thank you all for the help.
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 9:55 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Valve clearances do need adjustment, just that it is not required too often.

Here are the diagnostics for P0505, see if you are interested in going through them.

DTC P0505: IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM MALFUNCTION

NOTE: If DTC P1508 is set with DTC P0505, trouble shoot DTC P1508 first, then recheck for DTC P0505.

1. Start engine. Hold engine speed at 3000 RPM under no load condition with transaxle in Neutral or Park until radiator fan comes on. Allow engine to idle. Using scan tool, ensure throttle position is about 10 percent with throttle fully closed and engine coolant temperature at 194-205°F (90-96°C). If throttle position and/or engine coolant temperature are as specified, go to next step. If throttle position and/or engine coolant temperature are not as specified, repair faulty sensor circuit.

2. Check engine speed with no load (headlights, blower motor, rear defogger, radiator cooling fan and A/C off). If engine speed is 680-780 RPM, problem is intermittent. System is okay at this time. If engine speed is 680 RPM or less, go to next step. If engine speed is not 680 RPM or less, go to step 4.

3. Disconnect Idle Air Control (IAC) valve 2-pin connector. If engine speed does not decrease or engine does not stall, replace IAC valve. If engine speed decreases or engine stalls, adjust base idle speed. If base idle speed cannot be adjusted to specification, clean throttle body ports.

4. Turn ignition off. Remove air intake duct from throttle body. Start engine and allow it to idle. If vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, go to next step. If vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, place a finger on lower port in throttle body. If engine speed does not decrease, go to next step. If engine speed decreases, check engine coolant level and for air in cooling system.
If cooling system is okay, replace fast idle thermo valve.

5. With engine at idle, place a finger on upper port in throttle body. If engine speed does not decrease, check for vacuum leaks and ensure throttle valve is completely closed. Repair as necessary. If idle speed decreases, adjust base idle speed to specification. If idle Speed will not adjust to specification, replace IAC valve.
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
01CRVTOPEKA
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Ok, I'm sure I'm going to sound dumb by saying this. I took the air intake duct off the tb, and the tb has only one port. I put my hand over the opening and my car stalled, which I'm assuming it was supposed to do. The tb looked pretty clean, not sure if that matters. Now my idle will jump around a couple of times, and settle around 800 rpm. But if I'm driving around the rpms still jump around. I also noticed that the idle jumps more when the ac kicks on. I can hear it cycle on for a second or two and then it shuts off. So at this point do I just need to bite the bullet and replace the iacv? Once again, thank you all for the help.
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Friday, August 12th, 2011 AT 4:02 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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The port leads to the IAC and closing it would decrease the idling speed which might result in stalling.

The IAC seems to be working but is not as efficient as it should be. If the MIL keeps coming on for the IAC code, most probably you need to have it replaced but then again it couls also be a fault with the ECM. A shorted IAC can cause the PCM to go bad. One of the capacitors could be burnt and there are no after market part for repair as it is a manufacturer controlled item.

Check the coolant hoses to the IAC, ensure coolant can flow freely fomr the inlet and outlet hoses into the cooling system.
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Friday, August 12th, 2011 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
01CRVTOPEKA
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Ok, so as of now I've cleaned the tb, the iacv, replaced the clamp on the air intake hose since I snapped a bolt off. I did another check of things, and I did have an air leak. I took the air opening off, and noticed the gasket wasn't in all the way. So I re-secured the gasket and put the opening back on, and rechecked my idle. It stopped surging, but was still high. I remembered my mechanic saying he adjusted my idle for the non-existent valve problem. So I followed the directions you all gave me, and I readjusted my idle. It's holding steady now, and running smoothly. Thank you all for the help, suggestions, and pointers. It's great knowing there's a collective knowledgeable database for bumps in the road.
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Sunday, August 14th, 2011 AT 3:15 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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You're welcome.

Glad to know you have fixed the problem.

Have a nice day.
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Sunday, August 14th, 2011 AT 9:04 AM

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