Stalling

TKW829

MEMBER
2001 DODGE STRATUS
2.4L
4 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
295,000 MILES

My car that stalls in hot weather. Initially having the hood raised slightly while driving all but eliminated the issue, but now that is no longer the case. I have had many parts replaced including the TPS/MAP/IAV/CPS/air filter/coil/plugs and cables. One thing that I have just recently discovered is that, when it stalls, if I try and start it by just turning the key it will not start for at least thirty minutes. If I turn the car completely off and then on again the car starts right back up without issue, but if I drive it for an extended period of time or run the air conditioner for a while it will stall again. I have been advised to begin looking at the PCM and so far I have sprayed the plugs with contact cleaner and that seems to have had no effect. I am trying to avoid blindly replacing the PCM, but I'm not sure what else to do. Any suggestions?

5 Replies

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
33,874 POSTS

You said you replaced the "CPS", but you did not say which sensor that is. There is a crankshaft position sensor and a camshaft position sensor. Both commonly fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again after cooling down for about an hour. Have you checked the diagnostic fault codes to see if one is set for one of those sensors? Do you know how to do that yourself?

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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 6:52 PM

TKW829

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Thank you for the reply. As it turns out both the Cam and Crankshaft sensors were replaced. When the problem first appeared the car had to sit for thirty minutes before it would start. As I began replacing parts that time reduced to about five minutes. Then I accidentally discovered that raising the hood made the recovery instantaneous. One other thing I observed is that after cleaning the plugs of the PCM my automatic door locks started working when the car changed into second gear. Right after it stalled again the automatic locks stopped working. They had been sporadic up until the point when I cleaned the PCM. The one thing that really baffles me is that one day I had the hood fully closed but I was on the express way and didn't want to pull over. I knew it was going to stall once I exited and in fact it did, but the trick with the key started it right back up so I do not know if raising the hood is a false positive or not.

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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 8:32 PM

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
33,874 POSTS

The engine computer does not control the speed-sensitive door locks. I suspect a customer-preference setting changed when you removed power, either by unplugging the computer or by disconnecting the battery. When that feature is activated, they lock at fifteen mph. Their intermittent operation is a good clue, but I cannot figure out how that would be related to the stalling problem.

The first thing to consider is reading the diagnostic fault codes. Chrysler made doing that yourself much easier than any other manufacturer. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine. Leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers appear in the odometer display. I will be out of town at the Jefferson, WI Old Car Show swap meet until Sunday night, so do not panic if I do not get back to you right away. I will interpret any fault codes you find, or you can go here:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2

Be aware any fault codes were erased when power to the engine computer was removed, meaning pulling the plugs to clean the terminals. Codes for the cam and crank sensors often do not set just from cranking the engine. They need more time to set, like when the stalled engine is coasting to a stop while you are driving.

The second option is to have a mechanic go on a test-drive with a scanner connected to view live data. I use a Chrysler DRB3 for all of my cars, but most aftermarket scanners have similar capabilities. The cam and crank sensors are listed with a "no" or "present" to show if their signals are showing up at the engine computer. If you see one drop to "no", that is the circuit to diagnose. There could be a wire rubbed through or a corroded connector terminal, but when heat is a factor, it is more likely to be the sensor itself.

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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 10:22 PM

TKW829

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Thanks again for the reply. I have OBDII scanner software and an aftermarket cable. The PIDs that come back appear to be fairly limited. I have attached a screenshot showing all the PIDs supported according to the software I am using. I don't know if it's a limitation of the cable or the car itself. I do have the capability to record live data via the PIDs identified. I don't think I could afford a DRB3 scanner, but if you know of a reasonable scanner that might show more info I can try and acquire it. I tried the key trick and all that comes back is 55. And finally I have attached the receipt from the dealer showing what they did to give you as complete a picture as possible. As a side note I replaced the cam/crank sensors as part of an amateur effort to "cover all the bases." Prior to taking it to the dealer. I was surprised to see that they ended up replacing the exact same parts, but the issue remained. The fact that the car refuses to start unless I manually turn the car off and then on again made me think it might be something that resets with power applied.

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Friday, September 22nd, 2017 AT 3:30 PM

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
47,690 POSTS

The scanner software you have looks good, the numbers look good as well. They sure don't give their work away at the dealer do they OMG? I am leaning toward the computer being bad. The clue is the reset of the ignition key to restart the process.

I would try to get a used one because they don't have too many troubles. You should be able to plug and play

Here is the location (below)

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

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