I have changed my alternator and battery and the.

Tiny
JRWERVE
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 DODGE STRATUS
  • 185,000 MILES
I have changed my alternator and battery and the alternator is not getting power to the battery. I have two hot wires and 2 ground wires on the harness to the alternator. The hot wires are hot but it is not grounding. When I turn on the head lights it drains the battery fast. Also I have no interior lights or radio getting power to them. Please help I am going nuts trying to figure out what is wrong with my car.
Saturday, December 8th, 2012 AT 7:54 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
New or used parts?

Roy
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Saturday, December 8th, 2012 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
JRWERVE
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New alternator and new battery.
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Saturday, December 8th, 2012 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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What is the voltage at the battery with the motor running

Roy
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Saturday, December 8th, 2012 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
JRWERVE
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With out the head lights it was 12+v with head lights it dropped fast
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Saturday, December 8th, 2012 AT 8:30 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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If you have the correct powers to the alt, you may have got a bad alt.

Roy
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Saturday, December 8th, 2012 AT 8:46 PM
Tiny
JRWERVE
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I went out and worked on my car and it was holding a charge with head lights on until I road tested it. The alternator is putting out 12v but when the car is is gear something is draining the battery I can only drive it for like 10 minutes now
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Saturday, December 8th, 2012 AT 10:12 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
JUST TRYING TO AID ASEMaster6371

I NEED THE PRACTICE IN "MITCHELL I" ANYWAY

FOR LACK OF INFO OF YOUR VEHICLE (NOMENCLATURE AND ENGINE SIZE) I WAS FORCED TO FIND ALL OF THESE DIAGRAMS---JUST SO YOU GET THE RIGHT ONE

IT "APPEARS" TWO ARE DUPLICATES OF THE OTHER TWO---BUT TO BE SAFE I GOT 'EM ALL AS LISTED

I'M MORE OF A JEEP CJ KINDA GUY --- AND I REALLY ONLY KNOW YOUR VEHICLE BY LOOKS ONLY

I'M ALSO A US ARMY AIRBORNE RANGER (WAS PAID TO BE ONE FROM '82-"87) NOW HOLD THE TITLE FOREVER

GIMME A TOPO MAP OF "ANYWHERE"----AND I'VE BEEN THERE----AT LEAST IN VIRTUAL REALITY!

THESE DIAGRAMS ARE BASICALLY THE SAME THING---MOST WIRES ARE LABELED WITH COLORS---ANYTHING ALONG THE WAY IS LABELED AND USUALLY HAS A "LOCATION" BESIDE IT (SOMETIMES ABBREVIATED)

IN A LOT OF WAYS THESE ARE QUICKER TO USE THAN THE OLD STYLE SHOWING 5 MILLION BLACK AND WHITE LINES CROSSING EVER WHICH-A-WAY! THE OLD STYLE STILL WORK WELL, LIKE FOR MY JEEPS

OTHER THAN A CONNECTION NOT BEING FULLY IN PLACE---OR A PINCHED WIRE (SHORTED OUT) ---OR ANY OTHER WIRES NOT IN THE CORRECT SPOTS..........................LET'S LOOK AT THE DIAGRAM........FOR THE COLORS GOING TO THE RIGHT SPOTSJUST A "REVIEW" OF THE EZ STUFF YOU PROBABLY DID RIGHT

NEXT MANY FOLKS JUST DON'T UN-JEWG THE BATTERY----UNTIL THEY SEE "SPARKAGE"OR THEY JUST LEAVE IT CONNECTED----THE SPARKAGE NOT SEEN????YEP! THAT LITTLE BUMP ON TO A METAL SURFACE MAY HAVE FRIED A FUSE....OR FUSIBLE LINK----AND WAS NOT EVEN NOTICED!

MAYBE YOU DIDN'T SEE IT---MAYBE YOUR EVIL (BUT HELPFUL) NEIGHBOR DID IT, WHEN YOU WENT IN THE HOUSE FOR A GLASS OF SWEET TEA!MAYBE IT HAPPENED WITH THE OLD ALTERNATORDON'T REALLY MATTER, GOTTA FIX IT NOW REGARDLESS

LOOK AT THE "CORRECT DIAGRAM" FOR FUSES (THEIR NUMBER) AND LOCATIONSAME GOES FOR FUSIBLE LINKS

FOUR DIAGRAMS ARE:

1) ES

2) SE 4DOOR

3) SE 2 DOOR

4) R/T

5) USING A CHEAP TEST LIGHT TO SEE IF FUSES/ FUSIBLE LINK/ OTHER STUFF HAS CONTINUITY THRU IT (LIKE NON-TRANSPARENT ITEMS, THAT ARE NOT "OBVIOUSLY" BLOWNITEM IS REMOVED FOR THIS TEST USING THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY

KEEP YOUR QUESTIONS COMING IF NEED BE ASEMaster6371 WILL BE BETTER ON TECHNICAL STUFF THAN I

IF YOU THINK YOU GOTTER DONE---TRY THIS---JUST TO MAKE SURE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bzz7P3qNHcE

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, December 9th, 2012 AT 5:06 AM

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