2001 Chrysler Sebring ignition

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Sorry to say you have to remove that front mount its not that bad I have done a few of them. You can do it on ramps or jack stands it is possible.
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Saturday, June 29th, 2013 AT 1:13 PM
Tiny
CROZEL
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I assume just pick up the engine a couple of inches to get it out after removing the lower 'bell' portion of exhaust below the manifold?
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Saturday, June 29th, 2013 AT 5:28 PM
Tiny
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You can pick up the engine a little but as for the exhaust I never did anything with that except remove the o2 sensor to get a little more room.
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Saturday, June 29th, 2013 AT 8:06 PM
Tiny
CROZEL
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Hmmm. Sure doesn't sound like the case with mine. Can you tell me about the upper engine mount bolts. I can see one, maybe two, (on the transmission end of the motor) and the lower ones, of course, but are there any up under/near the exhaust manifold where the manifold bolts to the exhaust ports? I sure doesn't seem as easy as you indicate, though I also realize your experience level. The auto shop gave me a $350 labor estimate, so they must be figuring around 5 hours to do the job (well, not counting $20 worth of shop 'towels' LOL).
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Monday, July 1st, 2013 AT 5:54 AM
Tiny
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There is a transmission mount bolt under the hood. It really wasn't that bad once you get that mount out and remove the o2 sensor. It looks harder then it is.
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Monday, July 1st, 2013 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
CROZEL
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The hood? Are you talking about an exhaust shield or coming at the mount from the top (under the hood)?
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Monday, July 1st, 2013 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
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From the top under the hood.
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Monday, July 1st, 2013 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
CROZEL
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Not to belabor the issue, but I'm a little confused. The starter still has to come out from the bottom of the engine right. I've found a youtube video or two, but not from the same year/model sebring. I really appreciate your advice.
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Tuesday, July 2nd, 2013 AT 5:14 AM
Tiny
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Yes the Starter and the mount both cone out the bottom.I was talking about one of the engine mount bolts you get from the top under the hood.
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Tuesday, July 2nd, 2013 AT 7:15 AM
Tiny
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Okay, I think I'm clear as mud now. Plan to attack this with a vengance this afternoon. You have really been most helpful and patient. I will probably finish up sometime Saturday, but may contact you between now and then if I get jammed up, but naturally I don't expect immediate replies. LOL Thanks dude! P.S. Do you happen to know what size the starter bolts are? Just asking. Stop cussing and saying "do you want me to come and do it for you"? Ciao!
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Tuesday, July 2nd, 2013 AT 7:21 AM
Tiny
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Don't remember but I think between 13-15m wobble sockets are helpful or a wobble adapter to help get in there somewhere.
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Tuesday, July 2nd, 2013 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
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Worked about 5 hrs last nite. Got new OEM starter in. Had to remove air filter box, catalytic converter, mount and bracket, and lower oxygen sensor after disconnecting battery. One question. Original starter had a 'guide pin' in one hole. I removed it with a brass drift, but it would not fit in same hole on new starter. Pin was quite a bit larger than the hole on new starter so the new one had no guide. No pin was in the box, either. The shim plate lined up fine with the two starter bolts. Will the fact that I couldn't install the guide pin make any difference? Other than that point, it looks and fits just like the original. I haven't completed torqueing down the mount/bracket though cat converter is back in. Any suggestion for torque specs on 1) starter bolts, 2) mount bracket bolts and 3) anti vibration mount? I guess I should have taken them off using my torque wrench to get a 'back off torque value' but I was pretty beat after laying in the driveway for most of the evening.
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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2013 AT 6:27 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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As long as the starter lined up correctly your good. As far as torque just get everything tight an you will be fine.
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Wednesday, July 3rd, 2013 AT 11:56 AM

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