Rocker arm sequence and torque

Car: 2001 honda accord v6 (f30a1) ex

problem:
over torqued the valve adjusting screws on the rocker arm while doing the Valve Clearance Adjustments. The thread are not striped but bent out of alignment. Need to replace them. The only way I can think of is to remove the whole Rocker Arm Assembly (RAA), cut the screw since it will not come out by unscrewing, and install the new screw. (And the nut). And re-install the RAA.

My Hanes manual said the RAA bolt torques are 17ft-lbs. But on the net I see 15 for 12mm and 9 for 10mm. I don't know, not sure what the torques are for the RAA bolts.

And furthermore, any help with removing the adjusting screw without removing the RAA would be greatly thankful. Removing and installing the new screw. (I really think I can't install a new screw without removing the RAA.)

Thanks alot.

When I remove the RAA, do I have to remove both Intake and Exhaust RAA shaft? Cuz the screws (plural) I damaged are the Intake RA by the bolt number 7. I am thinking I can just remove the Intake RA shaft only and do the work.

That's what I thought at first. Then I realized that the RAA for the intake is independent from the exhaust. So pondered more and more and this is what I believe.

If I leave the exhaust RAA then that can help with the alignments when I put the intake RAA back in. Practically it will be exactly the same position it came out.

Then the tightening sequence will be 1 2 4 5 7 9.

I really don't see why I have to take both intake and exhaust out. Would it hurt the engine? Would it cause a problem (mild to extreme)? The two shaft are totally separate. I already loosed all valve adjustment screws so no valves are pressuring on any RA. I have to adjust them anyways so why not just loosen them all now? Nothing wrong there. Also in my Haynes book, they also took them out in sequence from intake first then the exhaust. Although they loosen all the screws by the reverse order of the tightening sequence, but they did that because some valves are pressuring some RAs. But again, they said once you remove the RAA then it is a good idea to recheck/adjust the valve clearance again. So why not just loosen all the adjusting screws totally so there are no pressure to any RA? And there isn't any; all RAs are free.

So, I am not a mech. My idea, makes sense. But I need opinions from experienced ppl. I really don't think I have to remove both shaft.

Now on youtube I saw 4 cylinder models. Those the intake and the exhaust are on one shaft. So that I understand.

Thank again!

What is the best shop manual (service manual) for my car? I like but not much, the Haynes manuals. Electronic version would be better. Can you/someone tell me?

Thank you again.

Cheapest ofc. But THE BEST of all.

Do you have or know the ISBN? Or some sort of reference number so that I can look it up?

Those bolts did NOT feel like 17 or 19 ft*lbs! They were more like 30 FtLbs or more. Is this normal?

And 1 more, 1 of 2 screws are replaced and fixed. The other, I over torqued it so much the screw is bent! I have to cut it. But they look like harden steel. Are they harden steel? Harder than the saw blade?

Thank you very much! I successfully cut off the broken screw without damaging any parts. At least not visible to the naked eye. It was difficult since I only had a handheld jigsaw and no table top vise grip. Only used a C-Clamp and a plastic box. I was very careful with griping with the c-clamp since it looked like they were both same harden metal.

I recommend using a rotary grind cutter instead of rigged saw blade. And table top vise grip. C-clamp works, just be very careful. Use thin woods to sandwich it if you can. AND! Wrap the rocker arm air tight. I used shop towel, then a painter's tape, then a used latex gloves. Use one of the fingers and pinch a pin hole to slit over the screw.

And then use used engine oil (synthetic) to clean/wash it off. It works. And just give the whole RAA+shaft a bath with it. (Drain it afterwards.) Always keep the RAA+shaft covered.

And also clean out all the screw hole free of fluids and debris or hydro-lock can happen.

And hand screw it in first. Then use a rubber mallet to tap things in then hand screw it in more. And then inspect all alignment. (Valve to Valve Adj. Screws, Roller bearing to the cam shaft, and the two little pin holes at the ends of the shaft that looks like oil passage)

And then finally torque them in. One thing I noticed is my shaft seems a bit bent, or warped. I don't know if that is normal. When I was installing the RAA+shaft back to the cam and the valve, it was rocking just a bit. This is the only thing I didn't like.

If anyone else is reading, it is good idea to follow the inspection list for RAA and the shaft. I followed the Haynes manual, although I can't tell what a excessive wear looks like. But lubricate all moving parts (RA, VTEC pins, bearing for the shaft, the shaft, rollers, and more) with engine oil before putting it back in. And don't mix their places. Those VTEC pins slide out so easily, I hope they are omni-directional.

So everything looks back to normal!

But now another question just popped up into my head. Should I have done this work when it was ice cold outside? I haven't done the valve clearance yet. Too tired atm. But if the valve clearance must be done when it is cold, does that mean re-assembling/reinstalling the RA should've been done when it's cold also?