2000 Cadillac Seville Temp Guage Freaking Out

Tiny
ALSH0377
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CADILLAC SEVILLE
  • V8
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
I have a 2000 Cadillac Seville STS. Im pretty sure this is an electrical problem but I cant figure out where it is. The temperature guage freaks out when I drive it goes from normal to hot to cold to hot to cold. Sometimes stays normal then goes cold to normal hot to normal. It makes the car kinda bog and run like crud and makes my car think the engine is overheated cause it says engine overheated stop engine then goes back to normal. Its been doing this for a year now and I dont wanna pay to have a shop find an electrical problem cause it could take forever
Saturday, August 1st, 2009 AT 9:52 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,159 POSTS
If it affects the way it is running, that rules out the cluster. It is possible you have a failing temperature sensor, terminals or connections, an ecm, or circuitry. If you know your way around a multimeter, check the resistance of the wiring from the ECT to the ECM for opens/shorts/high resistance. Did this happen after repairs like a coolant pump housing reseal, or something involving trans removal?
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2009 AT 6:01 PM
Tiny
ALSH0377
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  • 3 POSTS
No it started one day it was pouring out and the plastic wheel wells arent in on the front because of rims. It has been doing it for over a year. I am pretty sure it is electrical but I can not find the short I changed the coolant temp sensor already. Im not a mechanic so im not sure what to do
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Monday, August 3rd, 2009 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • MECHANIC
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Do you have, and know how to use a multimeter, more specifically measure resistance.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2009 AT 11:16 PM
Tiny
ALSH0377
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  • 3 POSTS
Hell no dont know what one is
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2009 AT 10:33 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,159 POSTS
Finding a suspected electrical fault almost requires the use of one. You have a circuit that is inaccessible, for the most part, other that the terminals at each end. It is quite possible that you have a break in the wiring, that could be inside the insulation, the wire would look fine to the naked eye. You could also have loose terminal tension at one end or the other that could cause a symptom like you are describing. If you replaced the sensor, and the fault still exists, the only other component in the system is the powertrain control module. I would not recommend replacing it, until you rule out the circuitry. The only possibility of ruling it out, without test equipment, would be to run new wires for the circuit. And even then, your talking about terminals and connectors that require proper disassembly and reassembly procedures.
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Wednesday, August 5th, 2009 AT 12:30 AM

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