Engine oil type and capacity?

SAE 5W50 for winter and SAE 10W50 for summer. Oil change recommended at every 3000 km. This guide will help you step by step with the oil change.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-engine-oil-and-filter

Fluid Types

Engine Oil

API Classification .................... SJ Energy Conserving or ILAC Multigrade

Above 0°F (-18°C) .................... 10W-30

All Temperatures .................... 5w-30

Capacities

Engine Oil

Refill With Filter .................... 3.9 Qt

Without Filter .................... 3.7 Qt

NOTE: Listed capacities are approximate. Check fluid level after filling.

The actual factory requirements, at least in the US are

Above 0°F (-18°C) 10W-30
All Temperatures 5w-30

Best thing to do is clean it up-You don't want to be out on the street and someone tells you -your car is on fire -When there's smoke there's fire- Your safety comes first than the car-car can be replaced not you-

Good advice by Raz.

Oil can get into electrical connections, serpentine belt, and if it contacts the exhaust system, it will ignite. Oil fires are hard to put out and can cause extensive damage to wiring.

Use some brake clean to remove the oil.

It doesn't have to be a visable cloud of smoke to burn oil. If it is not leaking, it is burning it.

I would have a compression test performed, see if you have bad ring(s).
Check the plugs for an ash color, which would indicate oil burning.

Oil doesn't go bad from age but really old oil may not meet the needs of your engine. Oil is oil and will always be oil. It's the additives in it that are of importance. There's corrosion inhibitors, detergents, friction modifiers, and viscosity index improvers. Those are the things that wear out, typically in about 3,000 miles. Normal engine heat helps deplete those additives.

Almost any engine oil you buy today will meet your engine's requirements, as long as you use the right viscosity. In your owner's manual it will specify a rating like "SG", "SF", or something like that. You'll find that rating on the container. The "S" stands for "spark ignition", in other words, a gas engine. Many oils will also have a "CD" or "CG" rating. The "C" stands for "compression ignition", meaning a diesel engine. Every time there is a significant improvement or development in the oil, it will get the next higher second letter. An oil rated "SF" is one step better, or newer, than one rated "SE". I don't even know what we're up to now, but we were up to "SG" quite a while ago. I'm thinking that was the rating about ten years ago.

New cars usually call for the latest rating, but when you have an older engine that called for an older rating, you can use oil with that or any higher rating. That means if you need an "SG" rated oil, you can use "SH", or "SI" too. You should not use "SE" or "SF". If you do use the older-rated oil, there's a good chance no engine damage will occur right now. It's more likely that if you were to develop an oil-related problem, the wrong grade will make that occur sooner, that's all.

We typically don't know what specifications have to be met or improved to warrant the newer, higher rating. If it's better anti-scuff properties, and your engine design needs that, the bearings could wear out faster. Rather than worry about things like that, all shops use the latest oils. They don't store large quantities that could take years to use up. When a manufacturer develops a new engine design that requires an improved oil, it will either be on the market already or they'll make sure owners know if there's a specific oil that must be used.

Nice work Caradiodoc :-)

Always follow the manufacturers instructions. You can use 10-40 if outside air temp. Never gets below freezing, but 5-30 is reccommended for all temps.

Thicker oil can cause (over time) damage on cold starts.

Full synthetics can withstand significantly more heat than conventional. They also keep the engine cleaner and have a lower coeffecient of friction.

Always use them in turbo, supercharged engines or engines used in towing.

The downside is cost, they are twice the cost of conventional, and if you choose to use them, change the oil/filter every 5,000 miles.

Semi-synthetics, are a mix, generally done to reduce cost and provide more protection than conventional oils, but not as much as full synthetics.

5 w 30 is recommended and 15w40 is kind of hard on the rings as they are probably low tension. 10w 30 would be okay or better. 15w40 is more for diesel engines.