Engine shut down

Tiny
MATT2511
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 GMC SONOMA
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
Hello,

I wanted to get a better understanding of what could be wrong with my truck. I've had a coolant leak for about 4 days now, but I was goof and checked it several times to top off with coolant when it got low. Unfortunately, the leak got worse and it ended up losing coplant very quickly. Last night I was driving back home trying to make it and I knew I was losing coolant. Then, my engine just shut down after I heard a noise for about 2 miles. Now my truck will not start, and I'm afraid it's fried. Is it possible that I just need to fix the hose leak? The car will turn over but there's just no power to start it. I understand I could have blown a gasket as well. What is wrong with my truck? Thanks
Thursday, April 16th, 2015 AT 8:33 AM

63 Replies

Tiny
FREEMBA
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,152 POSTS
You could have a lot of issues but lets start here:

Check to see if the ignition system produces a spark when you attempt to start the engine. (If so, you can rule out ignition system problems)

this guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Next, squirt a little gasoline or starting fluid into the intake manifold to see if it starts then. (If not, you can rule out fuel system problems)

Check the engine oil to see if there is water (engine coolant) mixing with it. (If so, the oil will be a tan/milky color) If the oil and water are mixing, you have a warped cylinder head or blown head gaskets.
In the case of the 2.2L engine, is likely a warped head, causing compression loss and thus preventing the engine from starting.
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Thursday, April 16th, 2015 AT 9:03 AM
Tiny
MATT2511
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
What's the repair cost of a warped cylinder head?

Is it possible that I just need to get the hose replaced? And then add some coolant back into the reservoir? I suppose I'm looking for any luck here with minimal damage done.

It does look like I've pulled a wire out from somewhere
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Thursday, April 16th, 2015 AT 12:32 PM
Tiny
FREEMBA
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,152 POSTS
The cost of repairing a warped cylinder head varies depending on your location.
Around here its about a $700 to $1000 job. Don't think that a hose will fix this. However, if you have a hose that's obviously broken, fix it as well.
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Monday, April 20th, 2015 AT 7:27 AM
Tiny
U04871
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 GMC SONOMA
  • 140,000 MILES
99 gmc 4.3 L vortec. Before overdrive kicks in on the highway the truck slightly sputters at higher rpm. Then when coming to a stop it sometimes dies. Any thoughts? Im leaning toward timing or air flow. Not sure if it pertains to the issue but it kicked a code for O2
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
You can't do anything with the timing. Try cleaning the throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner. It may be a switch problem in trans or slow application of overdrive.
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KELLY31792
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 GMC SONOMA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 66,000 MILES
My truck started shutting off and stalling. It happened twice in a three week period. I changed the fuel pump less than a year ago. I was told to change the fuel filter and so I took the advice but now the truck will not start. I have tried spraying gas in the injectors and it will start but will not stay running. Please help.
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check your fuel pressure, if you got a h arness with pumpand didn't put it on that may be your problem or you could have a broken wire in the tank as well as the pump may have fell off it's mount.
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ITALIANLOV28
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1998 GMC SONOMA
  • 191,000 MILES
Stopped running while driving and now I cant get it started battery is dead I have been jumping it and I have checked fues and the fuel filter all good but no fuel is getting to the port that u would put a gauge on not sure what else to do please help me
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROMECHANIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 536 POSTS
The first thing that you need to do is get your battery charged. Also you will want to have your alternator checked.
After it is charged try to start it again and see what happens. It is possible that its just a battery/alternator problem.
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ITALIANLOV28
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Ok the battery is charging right now and I know its possible but the alt is new and checks out I just bought a fuel filter going to try that
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ITALIANLOV28
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Ok well I have changed the icm and that didnt work and I have no spark now but getting spark from coil pack going to try and change cap and rotor in morning but dont know what else to try oh yea checked to see if timig chain broke but its good
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROMECHANIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 536 POSTS
Does it turn over good and strong now?
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ITALIANLOV28
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I got it fixed it was the coil pack that was bad thanks for the help
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROMECHANIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 536 POSTS
I'm glad it's fixed. Let me know if you need anything else.
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MOSLOF1988
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1996 GMC SONOMA
  • MANUAL
  • 171,000 MILES
96 gmc sonoma 2 w/d 2.2l 4 cylinder So I can start the vehicle and run it for 10 miles, then it shuts down, nothing. All electronics work, turns over, but you wait between 10-30 minutes and it startys up again, but you wont get but maybe 4-5 miles then it does the same thing. I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, Oil pressure sensor, coils, ignition control module, checked the grounds to body, block, frame, I thought maybe it was the CAT, so I took the o2 sensor out still stalled. Whats funny, this is why I thought it was the ignition control module, is you can dump water on the module and it will fire up, Im at a loss, could it be the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor? And what about a plugged cat, would taking out the o2 sensor help determine if that it was plugged or not. Also no codes are being displayed before, after, during, nothing. And there is no check engine and no warning sign that its going tom stall, except maybe it gets a lil rough idling but very little, oh I also replaced spark plugs. Thanks help me before I set thyis bastard ablaze, so damn frustrating
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Have you checked for trouble codes? Have you checked the crank sensor?
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MOSLOF1988
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
No codes, during a stall, after or before. But why would the crankcase position sensor be the problem if while the vehicle is stalled, I can take a jug of water and dump it on that ignition control module and it will fire up? Thats what I dont understand. And since I posted last, I installed a new thermostat (because the other one was just old) and I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor. Now after replacing the ECT sensor, I have noticed increased driving distances in between stalls, and lot shorter downtimes while it is stalled. Instead of average 15-20 min. It sometimes will fire up before I even stop coasting, but other times it could take 5-10 minutes. But it is an improvement, but Im still at a loss here
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
I understand what you are saying. You need to get a scanner and when it won't start, check to see if there is a signal from the crank sensor. I have seen them crack and when the get hot, they expand and the vehicle has a loss of spark.
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MOSLOF1988
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Its fixed, finally, Now it could of been a combination of things or one thing. But I took out the Crankcase position sensor, and it was gummed up good, I cleaned it up and reinserted it, As I was doing that I noticed a couple drops of oil trickling down the block, the oil pressure sensor had oil coming out the male end of the plug, So I took that out and replaced it. I drove it home that evening (34 miles total) but it was at night so I had no way of knowing if the issue was fixed. Today I racked off 145 miles of stall free driving. I almost nutted. Since I bought this truck 5 weeks ago, thats the first time Ive been able to drive it without stalling. Now I think I know why when I put water on the ignition control module that it would fire up, my theory is this, the module was probably fine, but since the crankcase position sensor sits right next to the module, it was the part that when cooled down allowed the car to operate not the module. So all in all to get this problem fixed I installed a fuel pump, fuel filter, oil pressure sensor, engine coolant temp. Sensor, Air intake sensor, thermostat, spark plugs, ignition control module, coils, crankcase position sensor, fuel pump relay, cleaned the catalytic converter, re wired all grounds and pulled my hair out and cursed this truck to no end, but its running and damn fine I might add. But to be honest, im not sure what the fix really was, the oil pressure sensor, or the crankcase position sensor. So thanks for the help, but atleast I got the ignition control module and the coils for free, that was a huge savings.
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Glad it's fixed.
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Tuesday, November 5th, 2019 AT 2:40 PM (Merged)

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