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P0410 and P0507 Problems-

Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 GMC JIMMY
  • 154,000 MILES
Since my last conversation with you guys I atleast got my 99 GMC Jimmy where it no longer dies out anymore, Thank You. Now I am having these other problems. First of all I have a couple pretty bad oil leaks somewhere, they seem to maybe be coming from the passenger side of engine and from Top somewhere. Also making me have Low oil pressure problems. When I am driving at atleasr 40 miles an hour my oil pressure reads fine but any lower speeds it reads Low pressure. ---. Also I keep getting these readings off the trouble code reader. P0507 and p0410 and I changed out the whole Throttle body, IAC valve as well. I bought a Air pump at the junk yard and put that on but im not sure if the hoses and everything are going to correct places. Do you happen to have a Diagram of it that you can send me? That would help alot. Also is the IAC valve and IAC motor 2 seperate things right? Where is the motor located? Also I need a complete vaccum line Diagram. Do you know where I can get that? I have the book but doesnt help to much. Please tell me more about what I need to do about the code problems and "Secondary air injection system" please? Thank you
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Wednesday, September 5th, 2012 AT 5:17 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
For P0507 Diagnostic Aids

Ensure throttle stop screw has not been tampered with. Check for stuck IAC valve or throttle linkage. Reset IAC using scan tool MISC FUNCTIONS. Check if fuel system is running too rich or too lean. Inspect throttle body bore for foreign material.

IAC valve and Motor are the same.

I couldn't find any information on the P0410 in our database and the vacuum line diagrams do not show as well.
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Wednesday, September 5th, 2012 AT 5:51 PM
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Ok, Thanks for responding so fast. However, I am confused on a few things. First What you mean by the Throttle body stop screw. (?). And How do I check the IAC valve to see if it is stuck? And what kind of Scan tool are you talking about and where can I get one to Reset the IAC? Also how would I go about checking to see if the Fuel system is running too rich or too lean? Remember this is a Non adjustable Distributor 4.3 Lr. V6 Vortec motor Fuel injected 2 whl drive. I replaced the IAC valve and Throttle Body unit and took it back to auto zone and had them reset and clear the codes, then took it back and they read the same things. The P0410 states that its the Secondary air injection system faults and probable causes are #1 circuit relay defective or fuse open.(?) #2 check connector or wiring #3 air pump defective or hoses blocked. How do I know if my Air pump is even working right or if at all?
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Wednesday, September 5th, 2012 AT 6:54 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
A code reader provided by Autozone would not work. What you need is a proper scan tool that can monitor the various sensors and have freeze frame datas on operating conditions when the trouble codes were triggerred. It can help you determine if the IAC is stuck, monitor to see if other sensors are working correctly.

It can also tell you the fuel trim.

I understand the P0410 is a fault with the secondary air injection system but the data does not have information for this code for your vehicle. Did you get the year correct?
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Wednesday, September 5th, 2012 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
I guess I should of stated that before but yes, it is a 99 but the Engine that was put in it and rebuilt was from a 96 Jimmy 4.3 v6
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Thursday, September 6th, 2012 AT 9:38 PM
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
I just spoke to guy who did the motor he said that he used the 96 block and heads and everything. That all he used off of the 99 was the Crank and 2 pistons. Could that be the problem maybe? Useing only 2 pistons off a 99 on a 96 block w/ 96 pistons?
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Thursday, September 6th, 2012 AT 9:49 PM
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Do you know what exactly that particular Scan tool your talking about is called? So I can try to purchase one
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Thursday, September 6th, 2012 AT 9:51 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
We have a salad here. Engine parts from a 96. Vehicle is 99. System is from a 2000 year model.

The crankshaft and pistons should not be the cause as they are interchangeable.

For scan tools there are many on the market and some are rather pricey and you should get the one that is compatabile for your vehicle. I am not able to tell you which is the best and if you rreally want to, then you would have to shop around asking which is best suited for your vehicle. The supplier should be the one in the best position to advise.

Before you go to that, check this out. Skip whatever you are not able to do without a scan tool and see how it goes.

DTC P0410: AIR INJECTION SYSTEM ("S" & "T" SERIES)

Circuit Description

The VCM supplies ground to Air Injection System (AIR) pump relay which energizes AIR pump and AIR solenoid. The VCM will run a test using HO2S voltages to diagnose AIR system. During this test, the VCM will activate AIR pump during closed loop operation. When AIR system is activated, VCM will monitor HO2S voltages and short term fuel trim values for both engine banks. If AIR system is operating properly, HO2S voltages should go low and short term fuel trim should go high. The VCM checks if HO2S voltages return to greater than the rich threshold when AIR pump is disabled.

DTC P0410 will set when VCM determines HO2S voltages for both engine banks did not respond as expected during the tests. If only one sensor responded, VCM will set either a DTC P1415 or P1416 to indicate which engine bank of AIR system is inoperative.

For duplication of DTC, ensure:

No active HO2S, misfire, fuel trim, EVAP system, ECT, IAC, MAP, TP, IAT, or MAF sensor DTCs are set.
MAF is less than 25 gm/s.
Commanded air/fuel ratio is 14.7:1.
Engine load is less than 34 percent.
Power enrichment mode is not active.
Decel Fuel Cut-Off (DFCO) mode is not active.
Catalyst over-temperature protection is not active.
System has been in closed loop mode for more than 20 second.
Short term fuel trim is 124-132 counts.
Engine speed is greater than 550 RPM.
ECT is 176-230°F (80-110°C).
System voltage is 11.7 volts or greater.

Diagnostic Procedures

1. Perform On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system check. After performing OBD system check, go to next step.

2. Start engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Ensure system is in closed loop. Using scan tool, command AIR pump on and monitor short term fuel trim. If short term fuel trim changes more than 16 percent within 30 seconds, go to next step. If short term fuel trim does not change more than 16 percent within 30 seconds, go to step 4.

3. DTC is intermittent. If any additional DTCs are present, go to applicable DTC. If no additional DTCs are present, see DIAGNOSTIC AIDS.

4. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Using scan tool, command AIR pump on. If AIR pump runs, go to step 16. If AIR pump does not run, go to next step.

5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect AIR pump harness connector. Check for poor connection. If a problem is found, go to step 27. If connection is okay, go to next step.

6. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Using test light connected to ground, probe battery feed circuit at AIR pump harness connector. Using scan tool, command AIR pump on. If test light illuminates, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 8.

7. Using test light connected to battery positive, probe ground circuit at AIR pump harness connector. If test light illuminates, go to step 38. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 28.

8. Turn ignition off. Disconnect AIR pump relay. Check for poor connections. If a problem is found, go to step 27. If connections are okay, go to next step.

9. Check for open in AIR pump battery feed circuit between AIR pump and AIR pump relay. If a problem is found, go to step 27. If circuit is okay, go to next step.

10. Using test light connected to ground, probe battery feed circuit at AIR pump relay connector. If test light illuminates, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 29.

11. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Using test light connected to ground, probe ignition feed circuit at AIR pump relay connector. If test light illuminates, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 30.

12. Using test light connected to battery positive, probe control circuit at AIR pump relay connector. Using scan tool, command AIR pump on. If test light illuminates, go to step 35. If test light does not illuminate, go to next step.

13. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VCM harness connector C1. Check for poor connections. If a problem is found, go to step 27. If connections are okay, go to next step.

14. Check for open in control circuit between AIR pump relay and VCM. If a problem is found, go to step 27. If circuit is okay, go to next step.

15. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Using test light connected to ground, probe control circuit at AIR pump relay connector. If test light illuminates, go to step 31. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 39.

16. Disconnect AIR shutoff valve output hose from AIR shutoff valve. Start engine. Using scan tool, command AIR pump on. If air flows from AIR shutoff valve, go to step 24. If air does not flow from AIR shutoff valve, go to next step.

17. Turn ignition off. Disconnect AIR pump output hose from AIR shutoff valve. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Using scan tool, command AIR pump on. If air flows from hose, go to next step. If air does not flow from hose, go to step 25.

18. Start engine. Disconnect vacuum hose from AIR shutoff valve. Connect vacuum gauge to AIR shutoff valve vacuum hose. Using scan tool, command AIR pump on. If vacuum is greater than 10 in. Hg with
AIR pump running, go to step 36. If vacuum is not greater than 10 in. Hg with AIR pump running, go to next step.

19. Check for leak or restriction in vacuum hose between AIR solenoid and AIR shutoff valve. If a problem is found, go to step 34. If vacuum hose is okay, go to next step.

20. Remove vacuum connector from AIR solenoid. Connect vacuum gauge to vacuum source hose from engine. Start engine. If vacuum is greater than 10 in. Hg, go to next step. If vacuum is not greater than 10 in. Hg, go to step 26.

21. Turn ignition off. Disconnect AIR solenoid harness connector. Check for poor connection. If a problem is found, go to step 27. If connection is okay, go to next step.

22. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Using test light connected to ground, probe battery feed circuit at AIR solenoid harness connector. Using scan tool, command AIR pump on. If test light illuminates, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 33.

23. Turn ignition off. Using test light connected to battery positive, probe ground circuit at AIR solenoid harness connector. If test light illuminates, go to step 37. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 32.

24. Check for leaks or restrictions at AIR shutoff valve, hoses, check valves, fittings, AIR pipes and exhaust manifolds. If a problem is found, go to step 34. If components are okay, see
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS.

25. Check for restrictions in AIR pump inlet hose. If a problem is found, go to step 34. If hose is okay, go to step 38.

26. Repair leak or restriction in vacuum source hose to AIR solenoid. After repairs, go to step 40.

27. Repair circuit as necessary. After repairs, go to step 40.

28. Repair open in AIR pump ground circuit. After repairs, go to step 40.

29. Repair open or short to ground in AIR pump relay battery feed circuit. After repairs, go to step 40.

30. Repair open or short to ground in AIR pump relay ignition feed circuit. After repairs, go to step 40.

31. Repair short to voltage in AIR pump relay control circuit. After repairs, go to step 40.

32. Repair open in AIR solenoid ground circuit. After repairs, go to step 40.

33. Repair open in AIR solenoid battery feed circuit. After repairs, go to step 40.

34. Repair as necessary. After repairs, go to step 40.

35. Replace AIR pump relay. After replacing relay, go to step 40.

36. Replace AIR shutoff valve. After replacing shutoff valve, go to step 40.

37. Replace AIR solenoid. After replacing solenoid, go to step 40.

38. Replace AIR pump. After replacing AIR pump, go to step 40.

39. Replace VCM. Program replacement VCM using required equipment. After replacing VCM, go to step 40.

40. Using scan tool, clear DTCs. Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature. Select DTC, SPECIFIC, then enter this DTC. Operate vehicle within the conditions for setting this DTC. If scan tool indicates that this test ran and passed, go to next step. If scan tool does not indicate that this test ran and passed, go to step 2.

41. Using scan tool, select CAPTURE INFO, REVIEW INFO. If any undiagnosed DTCs are displayed, go to applicable DTC test. If no undiagnosed DTCs are displayed, system is okay.

Diagnostic Aids

Low AIR system volume may set DTC P1415 or P1416, or cause an intermittent complaint. Check for the following conditions:

Pinched, kinked or restricted AIR pipes, hoses or fittings.

Leaks, holes, loose fittings or hoses.

Obstruction in AIR pump inlet.

Leaks or restrictions in vacuum hoses for AIR shutoff valve.

Melted AIR supply hose, indicating exhaust back-flow past check valve.

An intermittent may be caused by a poor connection, rubbed-through wire insulation or a broken wire inside insulation. Inspect harness connectors for backed-out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, poor terminal-to-wire connection, and damaged harness.
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Friday, September 7th, 2012 AT 3:31 AM
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Hi Guys, Well Im back with a New Problem I once AGAIN need your help with Please. Although I never did Actually Resolve the above Problems with the Check engine light and Trouble codes po410 and po507, the vehicle did run pretty good there for a couple months. Except my Low Oil Pressure light would still come on ALOT and I was Constantly having to add oil due to a COUPLE leaks (From Locations?) I could not tell. ? Anyways It got to where when I would drive atleast 5-10 miles it would start to smoke. Ok to get down to the problem, Last time I drove it I had to give a friend a ride to work about 20 miles return trip. It was running O.K but did smoke a bit, I stopped on way to job, checked oil level it was fine, well coming back home and just the last 2 miles I noticed ALOT of Smoke coming from whereever. So I then went out to check oil level a couple hours later, to leave again and oil was fine. So I left my place and went 3 blocks away and noticed some smoke still went another block and noticed now My oil compression was at 0. I immediatley turned corner to get butt home, stopping right away to check oil again Of Course. I drove about 2 blocks and pulled into a parking lot and noticed A HUGE LONG trail of Oil behind me and once parked a Huge puddle under vehicle. There was not a drop left in it. Well a couple hours later I went to pick it up and Tow home AND I noticed that on top of the Large, Long puddles of oil it looked like a Layer of ANTIFREEZE. But it was Not at all Milky as it would be if water and oil mixed together ( Correct?). So Now I am Real Confused. Checked water level in Radiator and was told it was Low, ( NEVER OVERHEATED AT ALL ). So QUESTION : WHAT WOULD HAVE CAUSED THIS TO HAPPEN. 1 SECOND THERE IS A SAFE LEVEL OF OIL AND NOT EVEN A MILE LATER, IT ALL GUSHED OUT AT ONCE? (Now remember it did have a couple leaks SOMEWHERE?) WHAT SHOULD I DO? WHERE SHOULD I EVEN START TO LOOK AND WHAT IS YOUR OPINION ON THE ANTIFREEZE LAYER LOOK? MAYBE RESIDUE FROM THE PARKING LOT? By the way, about 2 days prior to this I did add that Flouresant Die to check for leaks. It looked like it was coming from EVERYWHERE. Please Help!
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Sunday, December 23rd, 2012 AT 3:28 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
For oil or coolant leaks, you need a visual so we can't help on this.

There is a bad leak somewhere and since it is affecting the oil pressure and volume is great only when engine is started, that would mean a leak on the pressurised lines.
Oil filter, pressure switch and the oil pump would be suspected areas.

As to the anti-freeze, splashing everywhere indicates a minor leak which could be a pin hole puncture on hoses or coolant passages and a pressure test would confirm.

If you are not able to see anything due to excessive oil and coolant splashed all over, clean the engine and topu up oil and coolant and start engine to test.
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Sunday, December 23rd, 2012 AT 10:20 PM
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Thank You. I will check those areas out.
Now about the Antifreeze, Although the radiator water level was low when we checked it that day right after that Big problem with Oil (as stated in last question) and me noticicing what looked to be a film of Antifreeze on top of all the puddle of oil on the ground, I was not having any problems with Any Antifreeze loss or anything in that area. As I mentioned in last letter as well, A couple days prior to the Final drive, I got out there and cleaned the Engine by 1st spraying Engine Degreaser all over, then I used a spray steamer and sprayed that everywhere I sprayed the Degreaser then I went over all that with my pressure washer to rinse all of it off. I was as careful as I could be on what I sprayed of course and did'nt leave Degreaser sit but a few minutes. Then after letting it all Air Dry several hours I poured that Neon Oil Leak Tester inside the oil and drove vehicle as directions stated. But when I got back home and looked for the oil leaks It looked as if the oil was leaking EVERYWHERE, as that Neon stuff splashed everywhere while driving it. Do you think anything could be because I sprayed that degreaser on parts that I should'nt have maybe or? Also someone said it looks like it is leaking from the O-ring under the Distributor. Could that be a possibility as well?
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Wednesday, December 26th, 2012 AT 7:20 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
If the leak is bad, it should be easy to detect. The cleaning is not the cause of the problem and you should have checked for leaks first before going for any test drive. The leak was there initially and I would suggest replacing the distributor O-ring first if it is leaking.

Sometimes to rectify oil leaks, it has to be done in stages, starting with the easiest and confirmed components. After cleaningand running engine, check again.
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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 2:13 PM

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