How much does it cost to reprogram a PCM?

Tiny
ELIZABETH1212
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD RANGER
  • 99,000 MILES
I put a used PCM do I have to have the keys reprogrammed. Won't start just flashes theft light
Sunday, September 23rd, 2012 AT 3:02 PM

19 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
The PCM with need to be programmed to accept the new key which will cost about $130.00 at the dealer unless you have the old key which you can dig the RF chip out of the plastic part to tape or glue to the new key. I have seen that work. Also here are the instructions on how to reprogram the PCM

All OBDII scan tools support the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reset.

The PCM Reset allows the scan tool to command the PCM to clear all emission-related diagnostic information. When resetting the PCM, a DTC P1000 will be stored in the PCM until all the OBD II system monitors or components have been tested to satisfy a drive cycle, without any other faults occurring.

The following events occur when a PCM reset is performed:
- Clears the number of Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).
- Clears the DTCs.
- Clears the freeze frame data.
- Clears diagnostic monitoring test results.
- Resets status of the OBD II system monitors.
- Sets DTC P1000.

NOTE: When using the New Generation Star (NGS) Scan Tool to perform a PCM reset, press the CLEAR button. This function is performed only after retrieval of continuous DTCs.

New Generation Star and Generic Scan Tool
Refer to the scan tool manufacturer's manual for specific instructions on how to perform PCM reset.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Sunday, September 23rd, 2012 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
ELIZABETH1212
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
The company we bought it from programs PCM before sending it to you.
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Sunday, September 23rd, 2012 AT 3:12 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Then you still need to get it reprogrammed for anti theft which would include your key fobs
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Sunday, September 23rd, 2012 AT 3:23 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
FORDÂ KEYÂ PADS

†Enter permanent factory code

†Press the 1/2 button within 5 seconds to enter programming mode

†Within 5 seconds enter new code,  doors will lock,  unlock to verify code, this erases previous codes
remotes will also need to be programmed.

FORDÂ KEYÂ PADS/REMOTES

†Insert key,  turn ignition off to on eight times in succession,  ending with key in on position doors will
lock,  unlock to verify in programming mode

†Press any button on new remote,  doors will lock,  unlock to verify

†Do the previous step with the second remote,  doors will lock unlock to verify.

†Turn ignition switch off. Doors will again lock,  unlock to verify.
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Sunday, September 23rd, 2012 AT 3:26 PM
Tiny
ELIZABETH1212
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
When we try and start truck with new PCM it won't crank theft light will flash a 2 and 3 and from googling that it says key does not match PCM. So just trying to figure out if this sounds right or is it possible company did not program new PCM. It will sometimes flash a 1 and 6 to not sure what that one is. Is it common to have to get keys reprogrammed even if PCM is programmed for that vin
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Sunday, September 23rd, 2012 AT 3:33 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
You are probably talking about a 1600 code which means the key doesn't match. You'll have to get this reprogrammed at a dealer. I really don't know how someone can sell a pcm already programmed when they don't have the vin. If it is it's just a general one. If you change a pcm it HAS to be reprogrammed for the vin including keys/keyfobs
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Sunday, September 23rd, 2012 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
ELIZABETH1212
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Thank you for the info. Going to assume company we bought pcm was wrong bout telling us it would be flashed an ready to go. It's at the dealer now
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Monday, September 24th, 2012 AT 2:07 PM
Tiny
ELIZABETH1212
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
So dealer says there is a short somewhere that its not the pcm. So any ideas on what it might be? Truck will not start on its own you can spray it with ether and it will start right up and run just won't switch gears if you drive it only if you manually switch it and then it's only 1st and 2nd
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Monday, September 24th, 2012 AT 7:46 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Did they check the fuel pressure? It may not be turning the fule pump on and was the inertia switch checked to see if it is kicked on. Why was the pcm replaced to begin with? There are porbably 200 wires running to the pcm so asking where the short is is kindo fnil at athis point. The circuits will have to be traced down to see whichone it is. I would start with the fuel circuit or see is there are any bent pins on the pcm where it was connected first. Did the dealer reflash it or what exactly did they do?
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Monday, September 24th, 2012 AT 7:55 PM
Tiny
ELIZABETH1212
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
The dealer just hooked scan tool to it and could not communicate. He said it kept telling him to turn key on and it was. Fuel pump kicks on and correct pressure. Has spark correct compression injectors are not opening shoot with one shot of ether and vehicle runs under own power. We tried to replace pcm cause that was what we thought the problem was but original pcm is back on it. Couldn't program keys to the new/used pcm kept getting a code 1:6 faulty link.
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Monday, September 24th, 2012 AT 8:09 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Shorts can be hard to find, and this isn't the place for it for obvious reasons, it will have to be physically looked at. Wha I would suggest is to check all the fuses in the underhood junction box then check the coolant temp sensor it shold have abot 1550 ohms when at 230 degrees, fuel pressure sensor which shold have about 2.2 volts at 30 psi and intake air temp sensor which shold be about 3.51 volts at 50 degrees lower volt astemp is higher. And finallyo r first if you like disconnect any sensor to see if engine starts. That wil put it in open loop. You might also try checking resistance on crank and cam sensors, although we dont' have any numbers here so you might check against a new one. Other than that I have nothing else to give you. Oh, one otehr thing there is a ground wire on the rad support for pcm and rpcm relay. Make sure that is good and then check pcm relay as that runs the inectors form a signal the pcm will give it.
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Monday, September 24th, 2012 AT 10:36 PM
Tiny
LEON SCOTT
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I just had a flywheel and a ignition coil replaced in my 2003 ford Ranger super truck and the guy is telling me I have to get my key flashed, does this sound right.
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Tuesday, August 23rd, 2016 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Yep, you will need to visit a shop that can initialize the key for you should cost about $130.00
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Wednesday, August 24th, 2016 AT 6:30 AM
Tiny
40MPG
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 FORD RANGER
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 140,000 MILES
Blown head gasket first, replaced head, and associated topend gaskets, including exaust, lower intake and upper plenum gasket, new plugs/wires, timing belt and water pump. Hard to start initially, runs but no power, checked for vacuum leaks found none. Drives like it is in limp mode, went to auto zone to see if there are any codes stored. There was no power at diagnostic port, verified fuses, relay and diode, all good. Checked voltage at IAC, 4 V. With engine running can disconnect maf and/or IAC, and engine still runs, any ideas?
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Make sure your cam timing is correct it may not be then have check for no power to read codes as you may have one or two and not know it.
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
40MPG
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Found why I had no power at Diagnostic port, Some one prior had installed an Alarm or a Payment Device, that used a jumper (Obd2 male to Female) that scavenged Power and ground from the Obd connector, had come unplugged from the vehicle harness. I still have an issue with the engine running like it is in limp mode, will rev to around 2000 rpm and then fade and pulse, I have rechecked timing and I have ohm'ed out all sensors and replaced the IAC valve and have also checked the Compression, 190-193 on all cyl. Fuel pressure is around 65 psi at idle and did not drop when revved,
I plan on replacing the maf and Cam position sensors. I have read on another forum that a bad oil pressure check valve could cause the Hydraulic lifters to hold the valves open and cause lack of compression when revved, I have had the Vacuum line off of the brake booster, to check vacuum and when revved the vacuum drops and will Blow when the engine starts to fade at higher rpm,
Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
You can check your timing all you want but the pcm controls it. If you pulled the dist you need a local pro with a scanner to reset cam to crank sensor schyncronization, which you can't do. Your best bet is to scan for codes and check fuel pressure before you start to throw money away at good parts. Also check for vacuum leaks. Otherwise you are just throwing money at it until you actually either give up and have a pro look at it to see what is really wrong. Auto parts can scan for codes and rent gauge for fuel pressure.
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MACALMES
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 148,000 MILES
I have a ford ranger 1998 4x4 5 speed on the floor 3.0 with air. The pcm number is F87F-12A650-YB. I need a replacement. What numbers are compatible with this one?
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DR LOOT
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,311 POSTS
Only the same numbers will work
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)

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