"FURTHER BACK. SEAL REPLACEMENT" WERE MY WAY OF STAYING ON TRACK, I'VE BEEN DIAGNOSED WITH "CRS"!
FURTHER BACK IN THIS CONFUSING MANUAL, IT MENTIONED YOKE SEAL REPLACEMENT.I REALLY THINK IT IS MEANT TO BE THAT INNER AND OUTER PINION BEARINGS SHOULD BE DONE IN SETS, NOT JUST THE "EZ"ONE. HOWEVER THE SEAL CAN BE REPLACED BY ITSELF, AND AS I THOUGHT (AS WITH A JEEP CJ MODEL 20 REAR) A NEW CRUSH SLEEVE IS USED
WITHOUT ME READING THE WHOLE WORKS, IT LOOKS LIKE YOU "TIGHTEN" (CRUSH) CHECK THE ROTATIONAL "DRAG" WITH AN "NEEDLE TYPE" IN/LB TORQUE WRENCH (ATTACHED TO THE PINION NUT)---NORMALLY THIS IS CHECKED WITH THE AXLES OUT AND DIFF CARRIER REMOVED, . ONLY THE PINIONS PRE-LOAD WOULD DRAG AGAINST THE TORQUE WRENCH. NOT THE WHOLE SYSTEM!
BUT I KNOW YOU ARE WANTING TO "CHEAT". BUT."CHEAT TO THE BEST OF YOUR ABILITY"---TO MAKE IT "AS RIGHT AS POSSIBLE, WHILE CHEATING"
I'M GONNA GIVE YOU AS MUCH CORRECT INFO AS I CAN, BUT I WILL ALSO INTERJECT MY "CHEAT OPINION", HITHER AND YON. "CHEAT OPINION" IS SORTA "DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!" (AS YOU AND I BOTH KNOW IT'S NOT TEXTBOOK PROCEDURE)
OK MY 1ST PIC IS A YOKE HOLDING TOOL I WHIPPED OUT WHEN I WAS IN THE 11TH GRADE IN HIGH SCHOOL MACHINE SHOP (IN THE PIC, I'M, USING IT ON A TRANSFER CASE (NO CRUSH SLEEVE, USES WASHER LIKE SHIMMING TO PRE-LOAD IT'S BEARINGS) (MUCH BETTER THAN A GIANT PIPE WRENCH)
IN THE "MITCHELL I" SNAPSHOTS THE CORRECT SPECS ARE GIVEN FOR THE WHOLE PROCESS."I'D SAY YOUR APPROACH YOU NEED THE 4TH MITCHELL DIAGRAM (TOP CHART, "PINION BEARING PRE-LOAD"---NEW BEARINGS IS 16-29 IN/LBsUSED IS 8-14 IN/LBs.
I WOULD "CHEAT THIS", HERE'S WHY AND HOW:
WE'RE GONNA LIGHTEN WEIGHT AS MUCH AS WE CAN---LOSE BOTH REAR WHEELS. WE WILL STILL BE TURNING THE AXLES (AT LEAST ONE WILL) AND ALSO THE CARRIER AND RING INSIDE, AS WELL AS THE PINION MESHING WITH THE RING INSIDE THE DIFF. MORE THAT THE BOOK WANTS YOU TO!
WHEN YOU USE THE NEEDLE TYPE IN/LB TORQUE WRENCH YOU NEED TO BE ABLE TO TURN IT IN CIRCLES KINDA SLOW WHILE AT THE SAME TIME READING THE NEEDLE
THE CHEAT IS GOING TO BE TO COMPENSATE FOR THE EXTRA WEIGHT AND DRAG YOU HAVE NOW (THAT YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE). THE HIGH END IS 32 INCH/LBS ON THE CHART. LET'S USE THAT, OR MAYBE UP IT TO 35 IN/LBSs
FROM EXPERIENCE AND SEEING STUFF SHELL OUT OR GET LOOSE---I WOULD USE A NEW CRUSH SLEEVE!
WHEN YOU START CRUSHING, IT IS EXTREMELY HARD.I USE A BREAKER BAR / PULL HANDLE. CRUSH UNTIL YOU DO NOT FEEL ANY "SIDEWAYS WOBBLE" OR SLOP IN THE BEARINGS. GO SLOW.1/8 OR LESS OF A TURN AT A TIMEUSING AN IMPACT WRENCH, STUFF MOVES WAY TOO FAST AND USUALLY THE IGNORANT CHEATERS GO TOO TIGHT! THEN BACK OFF! (IF YOU EVER BACK OFF, YOU'RE 'SPOTA INSTALL A NEW CRUSH SLEEVE!) THEY NEVER USE A TORQUE WRENCH!---THEIR "FEEL" IS FACTORY CALIBRATED. SEEN THIS SCENARIO MANY TIMES!
ONCE YOU HAVE THE SLOP OUT, YOU WILL BE TIGHTENING--REMOVING THE HOLDING TOOL--CHECKING TORQUE (ROTATIONAL DRAG)RE-INSTALL HOLD TOOL--TIGHTEN--REMOVE TOOL AGAIN---CHECK TORQUE----REPEAT PROCESS. AGAIN SLOW AND EZ. OVERTIGHTENING IS A BAD THING, AND WE ARE ALREADY BREAKING THE RULES. WHEN YOU REACH 35 IN/LBs. STOP. STICK YOU WITH A FORK. YOU ARE DONE!
JUST TO BE SURE YOUR ARE SORTA RIGHT--GRAB THE YOKE AND REALLY FORCE IT SIDEWAYS. BACK AND FORTH--THERE SHOULD BE NO SLOP!---IF THERE IS THE CRUSH SLEEVE DID NOT CRUSH!---NOW GRAB IT IN THE FRONT--PUSH AND PULL FORWARD AND REARWARD---IT SHOULD NOT MOVE!
THE ONLY MOVEMENT SHOULD BE ROTATIONAL!----AND IT SHOULD ROTATED SMOOTHLY!
THE FACTORY MANUALS (OLD ONES ANYWAY) ARE SO EZ TO UNDERSTAND
YES, I TYPE SLOW, MORE THAN 30 MINUTES. INFO IS FREE!
YOUR TURN
THE MEDIC
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Sunday, January 15th, 2012 AT 1:03 AM