Timing

Take the belt off, can you feel any slack in the crank pulley? Does the rotor and crank pulley move at the same time? Ignition timing is controlled by pcm.

It's supposed to. The computer is controlling it. The timing is not adjustable.

I don't know why your looking at timing at all. You need to go back to basics and see what function is dropping out. You've probably got a bad crank sensor or something like that.

Here are the basics. Cover all of them.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

It just needs to be diagnosed correctly. A scan tool would be helpful.

Did you clean the throttle body? Idle air? It runs ok off idle?

Remove the EGR valve and see if it is stuck open.

Unplug the iac, does it effect the idle? Any time you replace a sensor, if nothing else, you can use a digital multimeter to check sensor wiring, ref voltage--ground--signal, where applicable, before replacing. At idle, the sensor signals should be steady, not jumping around. Also vacuum at the map sensor. Without something to point us in the right direction?

There are ways to diagnose and test things like this and it just takes some diagnostic equipment and some knowledge. You'd probably be way ahead of the game to let a professional diagnose it for you. Your just chasing all the wrong things.

Believe me, you are no where near trained enough to find this problem. Working on a computer car is an entirely different world and you don't have the required equipment to find your problem. You need to be able to read sensor data, understand exactly what it's telling you and how the sensors are interacting with each other.