Power Window not working

It looks like it could be the main window switch here is a guide and some window wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works and to do some simple tests.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken

It's not a fuse problem. Fuses are never intermittent and they won't cause the failure of just part of the system. The most common suspect for what you described is broken or frayed wires between the driver's door hinges.

It is probably the power window relay located under the dash. I am not positive of the location because they move then around. Classic chrysler problem if the fuses are OK.

Listen under the dash and see if you can hear the realy click when you try the switches.

Oh yes, did you try to open the passenger window from that door? If that works then it is the window sw on the drivers door. Let me know.

Check for power at the connector for each motor. Check fuses and switches where noth are out at the same time suspect fuse.

Change the motors. Done. If you want to experiment further, you can try to take one apart and bypass the over-current cutout. It's a thermal switch inside a glass bulb. I replaced dozens of these motors and always wanted to try this but never had the time. I suspect the thermal cutout develops high resistance contacts which limits current flow.

While this will likely solve the problem, be aware that an insurance adjuster will have a field day if they find any modification like this. While it's true there are additional semiconductor electronic circuit breakers in the fuse box, any type of vehicle fire will be investigated more closely if the adjuster finds even unrelated modifications. Their goal is to find a reason to not pay a claim.

There is no current going to these motors unless you're pressing the appropriate switch, and you would have to hold the switch a long time for a motor to overheat. With that in mind, there must be a reason the manufacturer supplied Chrysler with motors with built in thermal cutouts. To be safe, I would strongly recommend installing new motors.

Caradiodoc

This is the motor and regulator you would need if both are going to be replaced. Please bear with me, I hope you get it ok. Thank these guys. 2carpros.com, ok

Which window isn't working? It's very rare for a Chrysler power window switch to fail, but following GM's lead, everything is computer-controlled now. The most likely cause is a problem in the Body computer. Broken wires between the door hinges is somewhat common, but the window will not work in either direction. Also, a problem with the passenger side window has a 50/50 chance of being caused by a defective driver's side switch. It doesn't matter which switch will not make the window move. Current always flows through two parts of each switch to make the passenger side window move.

What is the most common is the ridiculous cable and pulley system used to move the window. Expect a lot of frustration when trying to rewind the spring that unravels all over the floor when you take the motor apart. The motors don't give much trouble, but if you want to test them or the switches, you'll need to know how to use an ohm meter or test light. I suspect you'll find a broken pulley or frayed cable when you pull off the door panel.

Caradiodoc

It does sound like a switch. In the past, it was real easy to test the switch by unplugging the motor and measuring continuity to ground on both wires, but in your case, they added an "Express Down" module because I guess it's terribly inconvenient to actually hold a button until the window goes down!

I don't know what's in that module. As near as I can tell from a '97 service manual, you should be able to read continuity from the Light Green motor wire to ground, and there should be continuity from the White wire to ground if power is applied to the Tan with Dark Green wire, but that's a mistake according to the diagram. Power comes in on the Tan wire for the "down" circuit. It doesn't matter; both tan wires have 12 volts with the ignition switch turned on, it just comes through two different circuits.

To summarize, look for 12 volts on the two tan wires on the switch assembly. If one is missing, look for broken wires between the two left door hinges. If either wire is open, something else won't work. According to the description, one power wire feeds all the left-side windows and the other power wire feeds all the right-side windows. The diagram shows it differently for the vent windows, so I'm not sure which is correct, but the point is, if a power wire is open, SOMETHING else won't work.

We'll assume the ground wire is ok because if it was open, none of the windows would work. Both motor wires should read low resistance to ground. The Light Green green wire should get 12 volts in the "Up" position. The White wire should get 12 volts in the "Down" position. If either are missing, I would suspect a defective module since the switches give very little trouble.

Caradiodoc

If the drivers side window is the only one that doesn't work then it's not a fuse. It's most likely a bad window motor but you will have to pop the door panel off and check for power and ground to the window motor while trying to roll the window down.

Removal & Installation
1. Using a trim stick, pry courtesy light from door trim. Disconnect courtesy light connector. Remove door assist handle (if equipped). Remove door pull cup (if equipped). Remove screws attaching trim panel to door below map pocket (if equipped). Using a trim stick, remove screw cover from switch panel.

2. Remove screws securing switch panel to door trim and remove panel. Using a trim stick, remove seat/mirror memory switch (if equipped). Disconnect wiring connectors. Remove screw securing door trim to door panel from behind inside latch release handle.

3. Disengage clips holding door trim to door frame around perimeter of panel. Tilt top of trim panel away from door to gain access to latch linkage. Disengage clip holding linkage rod to inside latch release handle. Separate linkage rod from latch handle. Remove door trim panel. To install, reverse removal procedure.

Removal & Installation
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove door trim panel
. Remove watershield. Tape window in its existing position. Cut and discard window motor tie wrap. Disconnect window motor connector. Remove window motor mounting screws/nuts.

2. Remove window motor and cables from door and allow to hang from door. Do not remove drum and cables at this time. Install NEW window motor in door. Tighten screws/nuts to 30-40 INCH lbs. (3.4-4.5 N.M). Remove drum cover plate from faulty window motor. Lift cable guide, drum and cables from motor.

CAUTION:DO NOT allow drum to separate from cable guide, by dropping drum or letting cables unwind.

3. Install cable guide and drum into new window motor. To install drum onto window motor shaft, a slight rotation of drum may be necessary.

4. Using needle nose pliers, rotate drum. If drum still does not align with motor shaft, with aid of an assistant, lower window glass 1-2 inches. Drum will rotate when glass is lowered.

5. Install cover plate onto window motor. Connect window motor connector. Remove tape holding window in place. Test window operation. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.