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My engine wont run?

Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Nothing changed after rotating distributor 180 and have rechecked it before only 1 revolution to get 90lbs. After 3 revolutions have 127lbs.
Now getting discouraged.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,110 POSTS
Compression needs to be checked with the starter turning the engine, not the engine being turned by hand.
Try this:
Pull the plugs. Insert them back into the plug wire boot. Use an insulated pair of pliers to hold the threads against a good engine ground and have someone crank the engine over. I know you said it was getting spark, but this test will ensure that the electrodes within the spark plugs aren't faulty.

Something about your first post caught my attention. The #1 plug wire should NOT be on the #6 plug tower on the distributor cap. It should be on #1. Reset the wires and distributor to make sure that #1 is on #1.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
No inside the distributor there are numbers stamped into the case a number 6 and a number 8 both 6 cyl and 8 cyl gm use the same distributor rotor should be pointing to the number 6 which is the number 1 post on cap anyway before reading this last post I did not change anything it started weired accourance but now when it reaches 161 degrees and thermostat opens it stalls and after a few restarts now will not start again
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,110 POSTS
In my 30+ years of experience, the wire to #1 plug has always been on the tower labelled #1, when there has been a #1 label. Always.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
When you can get ahold of on look inside on the flang of the distributor on both sides of the cam position sensor inside the distributor not on the cap.
Anyways new problem after warm-up starts pumping water out of overflow, ( only when it warms up) then after thermostat opens the radiator empties as long as I replace the water as it is evacuating the engine it continues to run barely misses no oil in water no fuel smell in water no water in oil runn great until warms up
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,110 POSTS
There are chemicals and tools you can use to check for the presence of a had gasket leaking to the cooling system. Smell isn't always going to tell you. This last problem sounds like a head gasket leaking from combustion chamber to cooling system.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HAWKEYE882
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1999 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 151,000 MILES
Ok, Since the weather has started to get colder the problem has started. I have had problems with the distributor cap fouling, have recently changed it out, plugs and wire changed 6 months ago. The engine will turn over, but not start. I ran the battery down the other day trying to start the vehicle, in the mean time I changed the fuel filter. When I was able I jumped the vehicle off and it started and ran fine, however the next morning it started again. I had the battery checked and it was bad, so now a new battery and still the same thing. The engine will turn over but not start, it will sputter like it fires for a second and then die, but when I hook up another car to jump it the vehicle starts first crank and runs fine. The coil has been replaced.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
The weird thing is no loss of power no hesitation and very slight miss not idleing rough or trying to stall under a load

getting frustrated
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Sorry but it sounds like you have a compression leak into the cooling system. From the beginning, it sounded like you had head issues but you said they were checked and passed. How about the block? Did you check the deck for level? There is something internal here and it is evident from the pushing of coolant into the overflow.
I suggest removing the plugs, insert and air tip end and use air pressure to pressure up the cylinder and see what happens with the cooling system. Look for any movement in the coolant. If there is then you have continued internal problems.

Roy
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check engi 1fuse ecmfuse1 as well as ignE all are in the underhood fuse box. This means actually removing them and looking at the fuse and see if contacts are corroded. If they are clean them then use dielectric grease if you hae an available. They do have it at auto parts stores. You might try resetting your anti theft see pic
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Okay will try tomorrow but for the mean time after reaching 195 degrees I drove it about 20 miles under a load and in 2nd gear and never over heated but upper radiator hose gets really hard when thermostat opens did well during those 20 miles.
Will post again if any problems arise and I cannot figure it out thank you guys.
( PASS IT ON )
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HAWKEYE882
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Cannot view or print picture.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good luck
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Turn the key on an dwhen you see security light on leave the key on until the light goes out. Do this 2 more times that resets your security system. You may have to leave it on for up to 10 minutes
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)

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