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Loss of power

Tiny
PROSPER DAVIDS
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,300 MILES
My car has been a bone in my throat it started loosing power, misfiring and idling rough. I changed the IAC valve, clean the throttle body and changed the spark plugs. Now the rpm now stays around 1,000 at idle 600 when engaged in drive and AC turned on. I think that's normal, but my big problem now is that the car still lacks power. I suspect the cam sensor or the ECU, because yesterday I unplugged the cam sensor while the engine was running my check engine light didn't come on and the engine was still running as normal. I drove about 20 km with the sensor unplugged yet no check engine light. Please I need help on what to replace next.
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 3:32 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Hello and welcome to 2CarPros. It is definitely odd that the check engine light (or check engine light) didn't come on with the cam sensor unhooked. The first thing I'd do is check to make sure that the check engine light is working. Turn the key to the run position but do not try to start it. Does the check engine light come on at all? If not, then that bulb is burnt out. Take the car to the local parts shop and get it scanned, even if the bulb does work. If nothing comes up, then you're looking at a mechanical issue, not a sensor or other electrical issue.

You might have a clogged air filter, clogged fuel filter, broken vacuum line(s), clogged EGR valve, clogged catalytic converter, or several other things.

At this age and mileage, it could be anything. If the fuel filter hasn't been changed in a while, go ahead and do that. I'll post instructions for that this afternoon if need be.
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Tuesday, May 28th, 2019 AT 4:19 AM
Tiny
PROSPER DAVIDS
  • MEMBER
  • 27 POSTS
Heyman thanks a lot for your response. The check engine light light normally shows up each time I turn on the ignition and goes off as soon as I start up the engine. The EGR valve was cleaned two days ago although the fuel pump under the hood has never been changed could that be the problem?

Talking about the check engine light, my previous car a 2000 Honda Accord usually turns on the check engine light at any slide sensor issue I believe my ECU is no longer sensitive as to detect various sensors issue. Like today I unhooked the oxygen sensor, the TPS, and the IAT sensor yet my ECU didn't turn on the check engine light. Please what should I do next I'm thinking of taking it to a repair shop but scared of spending too much money.
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Tuesday, May 28th, 2019 AT 7:20 AM
Tiny
PROSPER DAVIDS
  • MEMBER
  • 27 POSTS
Sorry not the fuel pump I mean the fuel filter under the hood. Thanks
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Tuesday, May 28th, 2019 AT 7:22 AM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
At 175,000 miles that filter is definitely dirty, which would reduce fuel pressure and cause noticeable loss of power. Go ahead and change that filter. Let me know what happens then.
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Wednesday, May 29th, 2019 AT 8:25 PM
Tiny
PROSPER DAVIDS
  • MEMBER
  • 27 POSTS
Took the car to a mechanic who also suggested that the filter be replaced. He took out the fuel filter and replaced it with a new one the old filter was truly dirty. After the filter change, he then check the fuel delivery pressure he said pressure from the fuel pump is weak and ordered for a new pump.

Now my car runs like new, no more hesitation or loss of power, I no longer need to floor my gas pedal to the metal. But my check engine light still doesn't come on when I unplug sensors, you see it on before engine start and off after engine start. Should I ignore it or swap ECU with a known good one? Thanks for your contribution and effort.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
If your car is running well, personally I would leave it alone. I am the type that doesn't fix such things until they're actually broken. On that car, it may just be that it has to be driven x miles before it puts the light on, so I wouldn't worry about it. Also, ECU problems aren't too common on those cars in my experience. Also, if it's running fine, tell the mechanic not to worry about the fuel pump. If the pressure was weak, the car wouldn't be running well. He may be wrong, or just trying to make an additional sale. After all, many mechanics at large name shops (mid as, jiffy lubes, good year, the dealerships, etc) receive a commission for up-selling.

For example, I took my wife's car to Safelight to get a chip in the windshield patched. The tech told me that I needed new wiper blades and said that the old ones had been on there a long time. He proceeded to point out a rust spot on the hinge pin (which is part of the wiper arm, not the blade). He also said that they were the cheap quality ones.

I had just put those blades on two weeks prior. They are ACDelco blades, which are the same ones that GM sells.

He was obviously lying and doing his best to up-sell. And he was quite convincing too. But I just declined, signed my paperwork, and went on with my day.
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Friday, May 31st, 2019 AT 7:12 AM
Tiny
PROSPER DAVIDS
  • MEMBER
  • 27 POSTS
Thanks a lot. I'll keep on using it that way maybe that's how the ECU was programmed.
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Friday, May 31st, 2019 AT 9:03 AM
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Sure thing. Thanks for using 2CarPros. Please feel free to come back here anytime.
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Monday, June 3rd, 2019 AT 4:01 AM

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