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Saturn engine noise

Tiny
JM
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Thanks for the extra info. When I get to that step I think I will be getting in touch with you again to make sure that I am doing it right. I didn't understand some of what you were saying. So I will read it a few more times to figure it out. I have like a million things going on right now and I am trying to find some extra time to even get this timing chain done. So if you don't mind again I will be getting back to you when I finally get some time to dig into this motor. Take it easy. Later.
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Thursday, April 14th, 2011 AT 8:00 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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I posted a diagram of where the silicone bead goes under the cam cover gasket. The other silicone goes on the oil pan where it meets the front cover pretty simple.
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Thursday, April 14th, 2011 AT 9:00 PM
Tiny
JM
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I hope you don't charge by the number of times you reply to me. If so, I am in trouble. :) Thanks again. I get it. With all the help that you have sent me I think my sister could change the timing chain. If I run into any issues I will give you a shout out. Take it easy.
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Friday, April 15th, 2011 AT 1:57 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Let me know how it goes.
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Friday, April 15th, 2011 AT 2:03 AM
Tiny
JM
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Long time no talk. Finally started the timing chain. Only have a day to do it(because of my stupid neighbor where my car is located) so I have to ask fast. Can't get the crank pully bolt off. What's the best way? It says in my book that you have to drain the oil and the filter. Is that right? From the time you get the cover off, how long about does it take to finish the job? I found TDC on the compression stroke (That's when the air blows out of spark plug hole right?)In the first cylinder. This sounds kinda gibberish but I am rushing to get this done by tomorrow morning. Besides the kit do I need anything else besides the crankshaft seal to do this? No all night parts stores around here. Thanks for everything and I might get back to you sometime today if I can get this crank bolt out. Joe.
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Friday, April 29th, 2011 AT 3:28 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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The best way and the way I remove the crank shaft bolt is with a impact gun but I don't think you have that option. The way you can is to Go under the car and where the transmission meets the engine there is a black cover held on by three 8mm bolts. You will have to remove that brace that is there and the cover then put a brace bolt in the transmission use a large pry bar against the bolt and put it in the tooth of the flywheel to hold the crank while someone breaks loose the crank bolt it loosens counter clockwise. You will also need permatex ultra grey silicone to reseal the front cover. It says to drain the oil to change the timing chain but you don't have to I do reccomend you change the oil and filter after your done. As far as how long it takes that depends on you I can do one in a hour and half or less but that is me with air tools. As far as timing just remove all the spark plugs remove the front cover then line all the timing marks up like I posted and you will be fine. Make sure you bend the oil pan only down far enough to get the front cover off if you bend it too much you will have trouble getting back together. Once the front cover is off stuff a rag in the oil pan opening to keep anything from falling down into the oil pan. Once you put the front cover back on then you can put the V shaped engine mount bracket back on and pry against it to reseat the oil pan against the front cover.
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Friday, April 29th, 2011 AT 7:17 PM
Tiny
JM
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I don't know if you are still there but I have to ask. Finally got everything off. I figured it all out except 1 thing. When you line the crank up and the sprocket dots are at 12 o'clock it says to turn the crank 90 degrees so the valves don't hit the pistons. Then you take everything off. Then it says to put the sprockets at tdc with the dots up. Then you turn the crank (the chain is not on yet) back to tdc. To me that sounds like the crank is at tdc and the cam sprockets are off a quarter turn. Explain that to me. Thanks. Joe
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Friday, April 29th, 2011 AT 11:03 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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I honestly line up everything put the dowls in the cams then take the chain off change the cam gears one at time then get the dowls back in put the chain back on and put the new guides and tensioner back in.I recomend lining everything up put the dowls in remove the chain then turn the crank 90 degrees. How you do it is up to you though you just don't want one of those spring loaded cams turning while the crank is on tdc. Let know how it comes out.
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Friday, April 29th, 2011 AT 11:50 PM
Tiny
JM
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So you are saying to line it all up. Put the drill bits in the cam sprocket holes. (The dowels are the drill bits, right). Take the chain off. Turn the crankshaft 90 degrees. Change 1 cam sprocket at a time and get the drill bit back into the hole. Do the 2nd one and put the drill bit into the hole. Then move the crankshaft back to tdc. (When you go back 90 degrees you don't go all the way around you just go backwards right). If this is right that is what I was thinking but the book said different. One more thing. On the timing chain cover down where the crankshaft seal is there is a round piece of metal inside there that does not come out. What is it and does it matter what position it goes back on. If it wasn't for you I would be ready to jump off a bridge right now. Thanks again and I think I got it under control now. Let you know how it goes. Joe.
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Saturday, April 30th, 2011 AT 12:14 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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You got it sounds like a good plan that part your talking about is the oil pump the only thing that matters about that is that you line it up with the crank sprocket before you put the front cover on.I use a pocket screwdriver to make the last little adjustment on its position so the front cover will go on.
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Saturday, April 30th, 2011 AT 12:36 AM
Tiny
JM
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Thanks a million. I have to have this done by the morning. Let you know monday how it went. Have a good weekend. Later.
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Saturday, April 30th, 2011 AT 12:42 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Keep me posted on how it went your very welcome that's what were here for.
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Saturday, April 30th, 2011 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
JM
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Got it all in. Did not have a problem with the tensioner. It all moved smoothly and the tensioner came out against the guide. It sucked. Don't know how you do that kind of thing for a living.I don't know if it works for real yet. Had to button it up cause I had to move the car out of the garage. I made sure the crank mark stayed lined up with the cam sprockets before I put the cover on. It should work when I finish the valve cover and gaskets. A buddy of mine that thought it was the timing chain all the time came by last night and looked over my shoulder for a while to make sure I was doing it right( he is a mechanic ). So I have my fingers crossed cause I don't want to do that again. Do have a question for the future. I plan on doing the rear brakes next (drums). I can do disc brakes all day long but I suck at drum brakes. Do you know much about the Saturn drum brake and can I contact you on it if I run into trouble. Thanks again and will let you know if it starts and runs right. Later. Joe.
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Saturday, April 30th, 2011 AT 6:18 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Yes I know a lot about the rear drum brakes just to give you a back ground on myself I worked as a saturn tech for over 16yrs I was a team leader and a shop foreman and iam factory trained.I even was a Ev1 electric car tech since saturn marketed and sold that car. Those drum brakes are some of the easiest I have ever replaced if you do one side at a time you will have no problems you can always just compare to the side you hadn't taken anything off of.I would use the wagner quite stop rear shoes those are the ones I put on my 1999 saturn SL2. The problem wasn't with the tenisor I had it was with the tenisor side guide no pivoting smoothly with the bolt tight. Yeah I don't know how I repaired cars all those years for a living myself lol. That's probably why iam getting into fixing those giant wind turbines. Keep me posted and if you need anymore help let me know. Just start the new question out by saying this one is for saturntech9 and the other moderators will leave the question for me.
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Saturday, April 30th, 2011 AT 6:34 PM
Tiny
JM
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Ok man. I hope to get the car back into the garage Monday to finish it. I would do it outside but we have had like 3 weeks of rain and it won't stop. If everything finishes up well on this timing chain deal I will get back to you when I jump on the brakes. If not you will hear from me sooner. Thanks again and will be talking to you later. Joe.
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Sunday, May 1st, 2011 AT 2:17 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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You should be fine if you got everything lined up and tight and took my advice. Keep me posted.
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Sunday, May 1st, 2011 AT 2:31 AM
Tiny
JM
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To saturntech 9. Hey man. Got busy. I got it done and it runs and sounds great. Thanks a million. Without your help I would have been lost. I do have some oil leaking out of my new valve cover gasket. It is in right and I put the silicone where you told me. Am I going to have to take it back off and do it again? Should I RTV the whole gasket or does it take time to seal completely? Let me know what you think of this gasket deal. I will be doing the brakes in a few weeks so I will be asking for some more info on that if it is okay. Just wanted to let you know how it turned out. Thanks again. Joe.
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Monday, May 16th, 2011 AT 2:55 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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I was wondering what happened to you lol. Glad to hear you got it all running good and sounding great. Where is it leaking oil at on the cover?Yes I will help you with the brakes.
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Monday, May 16th, 2011 AT 4:53 AM
Tiny
JM
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It is just oozing a little from four or five sections. I was wondering if it takes some driving time for it to seal completely. It is a new gasket. I put it in the groove on the valve cover correctly. Wiped all contact points down with cleaner before I did it. Then there is 1 point that it is an actual leak. It is the back point on left side of motor where you told me to put the silicone. I put a decent amount down on that point. Should I just pull it off and do again. Can I reuse that $35 dollar gasket. What do you think? Thanks.
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Monday, May 16th, 2011 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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35 for a valve cover gasket?That's crazy I just got one for my 1999 SL2 a felpro it even came with the rubber grouments for all the hold down bolts for like 20 at auto zone. The only place you need to put silicone is where I told you on both sides of the front cover where the front cover meets the head under where the valve cover gasket touches. Just a nice bead on each side I posted a diagram showing you where the silicone goes. If you have leaks all around the gasket and it is tight then you have a warped valve cover.I have had cars where it was only leaking around the spark plug holes removed the cover replaced the gasket and then it was leaking around the outside of the cover. Found it to be a warped cover.I have a few like that. You can try putting silicone all the way around but I never had any luck doing that to get it to stop leaking.
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Monday, May 16th, 2011 AT 7:39 PM

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