Alarm problems

Tiny
MZA
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA CRV
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 240,000 MILES
Hi, I am from South Africa. I had a problem with the engine and I replaced it, now with the new engine every time I stop the car I have to take out the battery terminal, and when I want to start the car again reconnect the battery. If I do not do this the car just cranks no start. The factory alarm has not worked since I got it. There is no battery in the remote, if I put a battery in it the car does not arm, but I have been told that the alarm is conflicting with the computer box and it cannot be disconnected I have to connect a secondary alarm to it. I hope this makes sense.
Thursday, January 11th, 2018 AT 10:06 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 50,321 POSTS
Hello,

Is the security light flashing? If so here is a guide that can help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, January 13th, 2018 AT 8:18 PM
Tiny
MZA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hi I do not have a security light all I see is a green key that flashes when I try to start and after I switch off other than that nothing, I can drive the car for hours its perfect as long as I do not switch off, as soon as I park I have to disconnect the battery terminal leave it for a few mins, and start again if I do not do that the car just cranks no start, there is no spark to the plugs
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Sunday, January 14th, 2018 AT 10:38 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
If a green key is flashing means the security system is disarmed.

Only when a red key is showing would it mean the security is armed.

Replacing the engine does not affect the security system unless the Engine control Unit has been replaced as well.

Check all ground circuit connections and wire connectors. Somewhere something could be not as tight as it should be and providing intermittent poor contact.

Check the main relay, (for controlling engine fuel pump and ignition system.) Check for trouble codes as well, it could be the crank shaft sensor that is intermittently at fault.
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Monday, January 15th, 2018 AT 1:15 AM
Tiny
MZA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I will try and get the codes but this is and old OBD1 I think and my scanner does not work on it, I have checked the ground wires and they are good only thing I noticed was the wires are thin, could it be that I have all the internals of the imported distributor inside our local housing, also the alarm does not work there is no battery in the remote since I got the vehicle, so you say it could not be the alarm, how many ground wires are they I have seen,
1. From battery to body
2. From Body to Engine
3. From body to transmission
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Monday, January 15th, 2018 AT 1:53 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
1998 should be OBD-II but if it is a twin couplet of 3 pin and 2 pin, that would mean OBD-I. Some generic scan tools comes with adapters for the 3 pin couplet. Alternatively you can bridge the 2 pin coupler to get the blinking diagnostic codes.

Battery to body is one piece. From body to engine/transmission is 2 piece, one near battery and the other attached to the engine mount at timing belt side.

These major grounding points usually do not pose difficulties as you can easily loosen and re-tighten them to test. It is usually those wire-harness grounds that would pose problems. Check the one near the thermostat housing.

You had a distributor internal transplant which usually is not a problem unless installation of parts were not done correctly. Center shaft should be reused if the angle is different between the two.
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Monday, January 15th, 2018 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
MZA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thank you for all your input I will have a look at the other grounds and take it from there hopefully I can get it sorted out
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Monday, January 15th, 2018 AT 10:34 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 50,321 POSTS
Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, January 16th, 2018 AT 9:53 AM
Tiny
MZA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I after going to a few mechanics we have narrowed this problem down to the distributor, reason being when the vehicle does not start there is spark on cylinder 1 ( very weak ) but the rest is cut of so the guys say it cannot be the alarm, I am waiting for a distributor to come so I can fit it on and see if we are correct, I would like to know which other distributors will fit on the B20B engine as I just need to change the internals of it, if I can pick up 1 that is cheap I could test it out, I have to wait for the 1 I ordered, this car is not common in durban so spares are rare, please help
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Sunday, January 28th, 2018 AT 11:20 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 50,321 POSTS
Yep a bad distributor can do it here is a one for $79.00 US

https://www.amazon.com/MaxAuto-Ignition-Distributor-97-98-Engine/dp/B0759KLQHK/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517252435&vehicle=1998-59-7540&sr=1-2-spons&ymm=1998%3Ahonda%3Acr-v&keywords=1998+honda+crv+distributor&psc=1

Please let us know.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, January 29th, 2018 AT 11:01 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Quite often it is the ignition coil that fails and that can be replaced as an individual part.
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Tuesday, January 30th, 2018 AT 6:31 PM

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