Fuse panel location my horn started going off

Do you mean the horn is turning on or it's turning off? If it's turning on, why would you suspect a fuse? Here is a guide to help you check the fuses with the fuse location in the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

You might want to test that battery again. There is nothing in that car that can kill a good battery in 5 minutes.

There is a procedure for finding a battery draw like that.

You will need a digital ammeter and a jumper wire with clips on the ends to do this.
First rig any door switches so you can have a door open without triggering the interior lights and unplug the hood light. Remove one battery cable and attach the meter in series between the battery cable and battery post. Take the jumper wire and also attach it the same way. Leave the jumper wire on for at least 10 minutes to expire all the automatic timers. Now remove the jumper wire and read the meter. Anything over 50ma is too much draw. The way you locate this is to start removing fuses one at a time until the meter drops to normal level. This will be the circuit with something staying on. Determine what components are part of that circuit and check them individually until the problem is isolated.

Can't help you there. Nothing like that made.

Door lock relay is located just behind right side of the dash. Fuse will be #32 in the instrument panel fuse block, should be 20 amp fuse. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

It is fuse number 29 in the under dash fuse box. I attached three pictures. One is a portion of the fuse allocation legend, one a close up of where fuse 29 is located, and the other is the entire fuse box.

Here are a couple link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Let me know if this helps or if you need additional help.

Take care,
Joe

Hi Cree,

You have a short somewhere on that circuit. Which fuse is it? The reason is keeps popping is because the wire is carrying too much current and it is heating up and the fuse is the weakest link (by design). So now you need to start checking that circuit to try and find the source of the issue. More than likely you will find a rubbed through wire touching ground, or another wire.

Let me know which fuse it is and we can get a wiring diagram if you want to try and find this yourself. Thanks

Hello, check the park/lamps fuse, underhood electrical center. That fuse circuit should be hot all the time. The feed goes to the headlamp switch for both the dash and tail-lamps.

You have a direct short on the alternator wire-disconnect it at the solenoid and check the wire to ground any continuity its shorted out-

Maybe the wire needs to be replaced? As an example, a 14 gage fusible link should protect a 10 gage or heavier wire. Use a heavier gage wire or smaller fusible link. How much voltage is the alternator putting out?

Hello Ras, I didn't see you. Have a good day. It was my thinking the fusible link should have blown before it fried the wiring. Maybe I misunderstood?

Should have blown, the fusible link is 4X smaller than the wire it protects

Nice seeing you again-You have good one too-