My fuel pump is not working?

The easiest way to see if the fuel pump is getting power is to remove and jump the fuel pump relay here is a guide that will help show you and the relay location in the diagrams below. If you have power at the pump it needs to be replaced here is a video showing you how.

https://youtu.be/bCcueO4ALxQ

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

When you turn the key on, no crank, can you here the pump run for a couple seconds? My info didn't show a prime connector for your pump. You can unplug the pump relay, use a jumper wire on the two terminals for the switch side of relay. The pump should run. Relays usually have a wiring diagram on top. Also, use a gage and check fuel pressure. The info also shows an oil pressure switch in the fuel pump circuit, once you crank it enough to bring up oil pressure and the switch closes, the pump should run regardless of the relay.

You do not have a carb. It is a throttle body -- very different. Your fuel pressure should be between 55 and 60 PSI. If you have the injector unit that looks like a spider then you do not have a fuel rail. What fuel rail are you talking about? When you changed the spider unit did you put a new fuel pressure regulator in? Make sure the new fuel filter is installed properly. The fuel filter is directional, it's easy to make this mistake. Did you install the correct fuel pump?

Your fuel pressure should be 55 to 60 psi. There is something blocking the fuel supply line, or the line is sucking air somewhere. When the fuel pump was changed, the tank had to be dropped and drained. Was the fuel tank cleaned at this point? The black gunk that came out of the fuel filter was probably the reason the fuel pump failed. Eventhough it's a new fuel filter, take it out and see if there is any black gunk in it. If so then you should drop the tank and clean it out.
A fuel line may also be pinched. The lines that connect to the fuel pump sending unit are flexible. They may have inadvertantly gotten pinched or something like that.
If all of that fails then the only thing left is the fuel pump. It is not unheared of to get a bad (new) pump. Let me know what you find.

Hello

Many vehicles will throw a code if the gas cap is not on properly. The tank must have certain pressure to operate effectively. It may be, since your gas cap was broke it was unable to hold the correct pressure and the pressure sensor detect this and threw a code.

My suggestion is replace the cap with a new one and have all the codes cleared. Then drive it and see how it does. Then check the codes again. If you need to get back with us please make sure you provide what the code number is and what they said it means.

You can go Auto Zone or O'Reilly's and for free they can pull the codes to the car and clear them. Most important. Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don't get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for free also they can bring their tester out and check your battery, alternator and starter.

I have attached what the cap does to assist you as well. It is normal for pressure to release, as you said like opening a can of Pepsi.

I just hate for you to drop the tank again, (not much fun) if you don't have to.

Again, if this doesn't t work, then please get back with us.

COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
The fuel tank filler neck is equipped with a screw type cap. The threaded part of the cap requires several turns counter-clockwise to remove. The long threaded area is designed to allow any remaining fuel tank pressure to escape during the cap removal operation. A built-in ratchet type torque limiting device prevents over-tightening. To install, turn the cap clockwise until a clicking noise is heard. This signals that the correct torque has been reached and the cap is fully seated. A fuel filler cap that is not fully seated, may cause a malfunction in the emission system.

NOTICE: If a fuel filler cap requires replacement, only a cap with the same features should be used. Failure to use the correct cap can result in a serious malfunction of the system.

You got 2 secs -have a helper turn key to ON check for power at gray wire at fuel pump connector-no power inspect ECM batt. Fuse #9 and fuel pump relay and comeback.

To answer your question about the fuel pump relay refer to location no.3 for both look below

2.2L

4.3L

If the humming noise is coming from the fuel tank, then yes the pump is causing it but that alone doesn't indicate an immediate problem. My own did that for 2 years before quitting however you do need to test the fuel pressure as that is critical. This engine requires a MINIMUM of 55PSI.

There won't be any voltage on the prime connector circuit unless you run a jumper to B+. When the pump relay is not energized, there is continuity on that circuit, but, no voltage, unless you use a jumper. When the relay is energized, there is no continuity on that circuit. I don't know where the connector is located, you can run the pump from the relay terminals, use a jumper between terminal 30 and 87. Probably should use an inline fuse on the jumper.

As far as the oil pressure switch in the fuel pump circuit, once you crank the engine enough to bring up oil pressure, the switch closes and voltage goes to the pump. My hearing is no good, I can't hear a pump run, with or without the engine cranking. I have to use a fuel pressure gage, to check for pressure.

I've seen plenty of faulty pumps that would run and make some pressure, just not enough. I'm not saying your pump is faulty, I couldn't tell without more testing.

Fuel pressure KOEO-60-66, idle-50-63, deadhead tested briefly 66.

Most databases seem to have fuel specs that are slightly different, it just depends on which one your looking at.

Hi Mike,

It sounds like the relay has gone out, here is a guide and some diagrams (below) to help you get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Please run this test and get back to us we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Hi travtodd.

A real common problem if you live in a road salt state is lack of a good ground on the tank. Use a good, reliable body ground for your voltmeter, then with the positive probe, scratch a good connection on the tank. If you find voltage there, drill a hole in the flange by the seam and run a self-tapping screw in there for a new ground wire. Be sure the hole is well outside the weld.

Caradiodoc