Idle air control valve

Why does car stall when I put it in gear, also any time I put hard on the brakes?
I have a 1998 Toyota Camry 2.2 eng. 4 cyclinder.
I have changed, EGR Valve, Vaccuum Modulator Valve, Cleaned throttle body, Changed IAC Valve and VSV.
Any info you can give is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Bob

Have ran Codes, it is not giving any, no check engine light. Will go and check fuel pressure, will get back with you after I've checked it.

Thanks, Bob

Hello:

Is it safe to clean the IAC valve for a 1995 Camry (1MZFE) while it is still on the car? I can remove the air cleaner duct and see the hole in the throttle body that leads down into the IAC. I was thinking of shooting some oxygen sensor and cat converter safe throttle body cleaner down in there. However I'm concerned that it will wick its way into the rotary solenoid windings and short something out in the IAC.

Is it safe to clean it this way, so do you have to remove it. Or for that matter can you even clean it? Does it have to simply be replaced if it carbons up?

Thank you.

I think that with a car as old as yours trying to clean the air intake sensor could help but it's probably a combination of things wrong. I reccomend not doing that and first replacing all of your filters ie air filter, pcv valve. Other intake breather filters, and go to a service shop and clean your intake and injector system first before you do anything else. That will revive your car and adjust the throttle cable making it tighter and taking out all the slack. Have a mechanic do it because you could over adjust causing another problem. Ok.

Hi,
I have the recurring problem in my 95 camry of stalling after starting on cold days. Removing the air idle control valve from under the throttle body and cleaning always fixes the problem.

I repeated this again today, with the addition of taking apart the wrong end of the valve. By wrong end I mean that to turn the shaft of the valve the end with the solonoid needs to be removed, but I took off the other end.

I also tried to clean a bit inside the fuel/air chamber, or whatever it is, that is just past the throttle body with a clean rag and throttle body spray cleaner.

Anyway, after putting it all back together, with all tubes connected, I turned the engine over and now its got crazy idle. In park or neutral, it revs to 1800, can cycles from there to 2000 and back about every two or three seconds. In drive it's better. It will drop to 1100 when first coasting, then kick up to 1500.

I've cleaned this thing before with no trouble. The valve spun freely after cleaning. Did I re-assemble the valve incorrectly somehow? Wreck whatever sensor seems to be attached just past the throttle body?

Thanks, I need help!

I don't know what a typical donation is, but I'll donate more if you can help

Hi,
Well, I just couldn't live without trying to fix the darn thing, so I took it all apart again and sure enough I had rotated the valve shaft 180 degrees from where it should be. It's easy to tell, because there are two metal flaps of different sizes that can be visible when looking at the assembled valve. The bigger flap is the one that should be seen, not the smaller one. After assembly, the idle was back to normal.

I did notice that what I think is the opening for the EGR valve (it has part number 25620-74240 on the top) was totally gummed up with carbonized particles and gooey junk. I cleaned it best I could without removing it, which looked like a real chore.

How hard is it to remove? There is a large copper tube that connects this piece to the block, and it looked like maybe removing the compresson nut from the engine block would be easier than the nut just under what I think is the EGR valve.

Should I just replace, or is cleaning OK?

What are symptoms that I might notice if this part is totally jammed with gunk?

Thanks a ton,
Greg