Hard to start when engine is warm

Tiny
RYDER365
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 SATURN SL2
  • 18,900 MILES
After starting and driving for awhile and then stopping, say at a store for about ten to twenty minutes, upon trying to start again it cranks over quite a few times and then after shutting of the ignition and trying couple of more times it finally starts. Can you please help as I have flooded it also a couple times trying to start it? Thank you for any help you maybe able to give. KIM
Monday, March 4th, 2013 AT 9:09 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Greetings.

It seems as though the air/fuel mixture is too rich, and pressing on the gas pedal allows the added incoming air to lean out the mixture. If the factory sealed throttle stop adjustment has been moved to a more closed position, in a misguided attempt to reduce the idle speed; this will definitely cause the problem you describe. The second most likely possibility is a bad idle air control valve. Otherwise, this condition is probably caused by a bad throttle position sensor. It could also be caused by a clogged fuel filter, a plugged PCV valve or PCV hose, or a defective air charge temperature sensor.
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Monday, March 4th, 2013 AT 9:47 PM
Tiny
RYDER365
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
How would one go about eliminating the possibles? I feel it as you said it is most likely a bad idle air control valve or the position sensor. How would I go about locating and fixing this? Thank you for your fast response.
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Monday, March 4th, 2013 AT 9:58 PM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
The first thing to do would be a self diagnostic test using a code reader. Most auto part stores will do this for free if you ask them. If this gives no codes then it does put you in a hard spot as there are possible solutions to such a condition. Sometimes it is financially better to just have an ASE certified garage diagnose it for you, however if you feel you are mechanically inclined I would indeed suggest replacing the IAC valve which is located on the throttle body assembly.

If you decide to conduct the code scanning yourself here is a guide and a video to help you:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k
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Monday, March 4th, 2013 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
RYDER365
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I do have a code reader but it shows no codes. So I will try and replace the idle air control valve. Thank you again for your fast response. I really don't step on the gas for I'm afraid of it flooding. KIM
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Monday, March 4th, 2013 AT 10:21 PM
Tiny
RYDER365
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Thank you! This is the best place I have found for real information! KIM
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Monday, March 4th, 2013 AT 11:00 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
Just to add to this one. It's possible you may have one or more leaking injectors. That's why you smell the flooding. When you go into the store the leaking injectors are dripping fuel into the cylinders flooding the car. This will cause a hard start condition. Remove the spark plugs and check that they are all the same color. The cylinders that the injectors are leaking on the spark plugs will have a darker color on the porcelain tip of the plug. I hope this will help you to fix the car.
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Tuesday, March 5th, 2013 AT 12:38 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
More then likely it's a bad coolant temperature sensor they fail often on those cars. Before replacing the IAC replace the 11 coolant temperature sensor.I really doubt a IAC is flooding anything out. Also inspect the inside of the coolant temperature sensor if the terminals are blue or green instead of silver you will need a new connector also.
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Tuesday, March 5th, 2013 AT 3:57 AM

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