1991 Ford Explorer hard to start

I had both sensors on the Therm housing (one is ECT and other I don't remember what it's called)replaced 2 times. When the ECT sensor was bad, I never had any smoke coming out of the exhaust. Not to say it doesn't happen, I am just lucky I suppose. I have the same issue as Jay-M happening though minus the black smoke. Last weekend we moved from Florida to New Hampshire. I drove my truck all the way. The truck was fine until we went through New York City. I have a pulley somewhere that started making noise, and my truck is hard to start again. The RPM's drop all the way once it is started so it cuts off. It takes 8 or 9 times to get it started then it runs really rough all the while rpm's fluctuate really low sometimes to 0 shutting truck off. Could this be my Throttle Position Sensor?

I forgot to mention, after having the ECT replaced both times the check engine light is still on throwing the matching code. Prior to having both sensors replaced the 2nd time, my Temp gauge inside my truck didn't work and I never heard my fan come on. Since the 2nd replacement the gauge works and the fan comes on. Could the wire to the sensor still work but need to be replaced and throw the code? I personally think my check engine light is just haunted. Even with the new issue from driving 1400 miles, that is the only code showing (from the sensor).

Code is and has always been P0117.

Please do, Scribbledcanvas@aol. Com I need to somehow fix the issue to get the light off. I have to do my inspection soon, and it will not pass with the check engine light on. I don't want to deceive them just to get it passed. I know a lot of people do, but that just isn't me.

Hi guys im planning to buy a scantool and I like the CRAFTSMAN canOBD 1&2. Any body had used this one before and its working very good? Any suggestion guys.

Thanks for sending the file! I decided to take it to the shop yesterday. Will update when I get the results.

Hi guys I need a help for my 1997 ford explorer 4.0 SOHC, engine hard to start.I try to start so many times before it will start but the engine was stalling and thier is a lot of black smoke coming out from the tail pipe, but sometimes it won't start. Thier is no check engine and code.I replaced ECT, IAC, MAF, SPARK PLUGS & HIGH TENSION WIRE. I check fuel pressure & power supply in the spark plug all are good.5 months ago I replaced the automatic transmission because it won't shift to reverse and the drive it shift only 1st and 2nd. Any help please?

Item# 00920899000 Mfr. Model# 20899
Designed to retrieve OEM Enhanced and Transmission diagnostic codes in all OBD2 (1996 and newer) and some of the most popular OBD1 (1981 to 1995) vehicles. Features unique patented all-in-one backlit screen and LED display for quick State Emissions readiness check and drive cycle verification. Comes with access to online RepairSolutions which gives trouble code definitions, a full diagnostic report, probable causes, most likely fix to DTCs, repair costs and more.

Unit can be flash updated with a standard Windows PC (OBD-PC Linkâ software required / included with tool)
Memory / Battery backup for off-car review and analysis
OBD2 Coverage:
Retrieves OEM Enhanced and Transmission DTCs
Communicates with all OBD2 protocols: C.A.N. (Controller Area Network), ISO 9141, J1850PWM, J1850VPW, KWP 2000 ISO 14230-4
Provides SAE enhanced OBD2 Live Data - views, records, and plays back live PCM data streams
Displays Freeze Frame Data
Includes Spanish and French Interface & Definitions (selected by a menu command)
Retrieves OBD2 DTCs: Generic Codes (P0, P2, P3, and U0) / Manufacturer Specific Codes (P1, P3, and U1)
OBD1 Coverage:
General Motors 1982 to 1993 and some 1994 to 1995 models
Ford, Lincoln, Mercury 1983 to 1995 models with EEC-IV Systems
Performs: KOEO, KOER, Timing Check, Cylinder Balance Test, Output State Test, Wiggle Test
Toyota / Lexus 1991 to 1995
Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth 1984 to 1995
Jeep 1993 to 1995

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NO trouble code & check engine. The scantool it cost $238 and free shipping

Nope! Cause I don't have a special tools to do the test and I heard the fuel pump it was running every 2 second even I just turned on the ignation switch. So I really need to buy the scantool to test the spark plug misfire and the injector test.

JAY-M have you ever replaced the Oxygen Sensors? If you haven't, replace those. Clogged/bad Oxygen Sensors will cause it to run rich. A simple way to check your sensors. If you can, put your hand in front of the exhaust pipe while it is running. Hold it there for about 10 seconds. Remove your hand away from the exhaust and smell it. If your hand smells like gas even the least little bit, change your O2 sensors. You might also be able to smell gas without putting your hand there if you stand by the exhaust.

My issue with my truck is when I had the ECT and Temp Sender replaced the 1st time, the moron busted the wiring harness at the sensor wires (I only know who exactly it was because it started up immediately every time before taking it to him, after getting it back, I had issues starting it. After driving all the way from FL to NH, the wire came loose from the harness). Not the end that connects to the sensors, the end that connects to the harness on the firewall. That is what is causing the issue with my truck not starting then running like poo once it is started.