Engine squeak

I think your problem may not be coming from the belt at all. This noise is commonly misdiagnosed as a belt noise when in reality the noise is coming from the Cam Sensor synchronizer. That is the drive mechanism that the Cam sensor is mounted on and it's located where the distributor normally would be. You can use a long screwdriver to your ear and the base of the drive to listen for the noise.

DO NOT remove or move that sensor without marking everything very carefully. This has to timed and requires a special tool to do this.

Possibly, check it and find out.

A common problem is worn push rods where they contact the rocker arms. You will hear it more if you remove the oil fill cap and listen there.

Caradiodoc

As your engine gets older, you will get rattles in your valve train. From wear and maybe from your tappets (hydraulic lifters). The tappets sometimes get "dirty" or build-up on the surfaces of it. Then they do not perform as intended!

The tappets sorta work like a Hydraulic Jack but much faster!

When they drop down, due to the cams action, they sink into a OIL GALLEY, oil pressure "OPENS THEM" and RE-ADJUSTS THEM to take up the SLACK from WEAR in the push-rods, rocker arms, valve stems, cam, and even the mating surfaces of the tappet itself and this "ZEROS" each one to the Proper height. EVERY TIME IT GOES DOWN!

The Cool thing is, It "CLOSES" as it comes back up, closes like a hydraulic Jack. Then it starts pushing, the system, and Wah-lah. The valve opens

May can help you Squeeze out some more miles and help to quiet the ticking!

When you perform your OIL CHANGE, SUBSTITUTE, a QUART ofMarvel Mystery OILfor a quart of regular oil. This will CLEAN your Lifters (tappets). This may get rid of rocker-arm rattle completely. Or maybe not. But it will harm nothing!

The goal is to get the Tappets clean and Closing correctly as well as the "Opening"--Re-adjusting part too."MMO" does not need to be used every oil change

Next, My next oil change and "ALL" thereafter, I would use "LUCAS OIL STABILIZER" or "High Tack" (does not have to be the $$$ synthetic type). This is some thick stuff, may take 30 minutes to get it to all run out of the bottle.I set mine over the heat vent inside, for a while till I install it.

Stabilizer adds $$$ to your change, but it will prolong engine life. At least thats what I have experienced.

I use it in ALL OF MINE. Nothing is too good for "Mr. Jeep" ('77 CJ5) and "Willy" ('46 Willys)

Respond with GOOD NEWS. Don't forget me. Whenever.I can wait thru your 2 oil changes!---RESPOND at this post. So I will be alerted

The Medic

Interesting. So how do you know when it's in the correct depth to read the correct level?

I should have clarified too about the noisy push rods. That is a different problem than the typical valve lash noise caused by lifters that aren't pumped up. There will be grooves worn into the ends of the push rods that cause a clicking or chirping sound.

Caradiodoc

Hi can you tell if this noise is in the front of the eng or sides or back?
Does it sound like a rubbing noise rattle noise?
If you will answer these questions I will try and help

thanks billymac

Well Caradiodoc, That seems awful weird about the dipstick.

Jraylong, be careful tapping that out, I just recently learned, that when TAPPING ALUMINUM, use "LARD" for a lubricant. If you know someone with experience with "Helicoils" or Inserts, Their help may make it a GOOD Thing.'Stead of a BAD Thing.

Sorry I wasn't much help

The Medic

Hi ok then remove the serp belt start truck you should hear no noisw/. Turn each pulley bye hand. They should turn smooth and tight. The bearing bad will feel rough and loose and noisy. Normally it will be the idler billymac

More than likley it's the idle air control valve, bolted to the side of the throttle body.