The engine stalls at idle?

Tiny
MCASDORPH
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Welp. Bad news, it stalled once yesterday and 3 times today. Could it be the coil? I read that you can test the coil's resistance with a multi-meter, how do I perform this on the coil?
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Wednesday, September 2nd, 2015 AT 4:03 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,779 POSTS
I have a feeling it is the rear three plugs. However, if you want to check the coil, it is somewhat involved. I will give you the steps as needed and the continue once I hear the results from you.

To begin, we need to make sure the proper voltage is getting to the coil.

First, remove the connector at the coil.

See the attached pic

As you can see, there are 4 pins. One is the B+ and the others are for individual cylinders. First make sure there and no damaged pins in the connector or corrosion. If that checks good, using an ohm meter, check for primary resistance between the B+ terminal and each of the others (one at a time). If primary resistance is more than 2 ohms, the coil is bad.

Get that far and let me know what you find.
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Wednesday, September 2nd, 2015 AT 7:11 PM
Tiny
MCASDORPH
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  • 30 POSTS
Will check tomorrow on the resistance,

About the 3 rear plugs, I did eventually change them, I thought I had mentioned that earlier in the posts.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2015 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
MCASDORPH
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  • 30 POSTS
Well, I swapped coils and it still stalled on long drives, different places online mentioned the crank sensor failing could cause it to stall when it gets hot, a guy my dad knows, he works on cars for people as a side job had also mentioned that the Crank Sensors are known to fail on these vans, I bought one off ebay and switched it and it didn't even start, it didn't come with a spacer, I wouldn't think that spacer would have made much difference, I don't know I might try to put a spacer on it and try that one again to make sure its absolutely not working before I send it back or exchange it.

I have noticed since it hasn't been as hot lately (it was mid 80's to 90's when it was stalling regularly) that is hasn't been acting up lately in the 50's to 70's, but if it was an overheating issue the gauge hasn't shown it, always shows about normal. But back to the Crank Sensor, I read (whether or not it can happen, I dont know) that a crank sensor can fail when it gets too hot, Everyone has just been pointing at the Crank Sensor. What do you think? You think it can fail at hot temp and still not fail completely?
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Saturday, October 3rd, 2015 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,779 POSTS
Yes, the crank sensor can cause problems. As far as not starting now, it has to be adjusted properly to pick up a signal from the reluctor. Basically, all the sensor is a magnet. When it's magnetic field is broken, it creates a weak electrical pulse. Thus, when the crank is turning, it determines exact locations of all the cylinders in relationship to ignition, fuel injection.
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Sunday, October 4th, 2015 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
MCASDORPH
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Some one mentioned using a cereal box as a spacer sense it didn't come with one, would that be an adequate gap?
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Sunday, October 4th, 2015 AT 7:46 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,779 POSTS
Believe it or not, the spacer used is made of paper. Now a cereal box may or may not be the same thickness.
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+1
Sunday, October 4th, 2015 AT 7:56 PM
Tiny
BIG GARY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1997 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 210,000 MILES
I have 210000 miles on my caravan, some times when you start it, it will die right away. You may have to start it 3 or 4 times. When it starts it runs great. It may go a week and never have a problem.
And then may act up for 3 or 4 starts in a row. I think it happens more after the car has been run a few minutes or more. When it's going to die the RPM's on start never get over 1000. When it starts it will hit 1500 before coming back down.
Everything else seems to work fine.
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Sounds like a sticky Idle Speed Control Motor. Mounted on the side of the throttle bore. First try cleaning out the throttle bore around the butterfly with some carb spray and a rag
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BIG GARY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks I flushed with carb cleaner, and washed with seafoam. It was dirty.
I think the problem is gone. Runs like a brand new caravan with 210000 miles
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TRACYRAE76
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 204,000 MILES
When I start my van, it will run for a couple seconds then it just dies. After awhile it would start and keep running, but now it doesn't even do that. We have replaced a corroded battery wire, alternator, starter, fuel pump system, and all the filters. It has been hooked up to a diagnostic machine numerous times and it always shows nothing. I cannot figure it out, and neither can any of the mechanics I have talked to can either.
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Key on do you have check engine light on you should if not check ASD relay and wiring, ignition switch
if you do have check engine light on with key on, crank to start the engine does light go out if not check and suspect crank sensor
if it does check ASD relay, do a fuel pressure test, check for spark, let me know what is missing
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TRACYRAE76
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
No the check engine light does not come on when I crank it. Nothing lights up when I turn it on.
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Key on engine off (not cranking ) you should have check engine light on if not check fuses and ASD relay, ignition switch and wiring
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHIRELLE HUGHES
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 224,500 MILES
Van shuts off when you put it in reverse.
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning.

Does it shut off when you put it in drive?

If it does not, there is a good chance the torque converter is locked up and causing it to stall in reverse.

When was the last time you changed the transmission oil/filter?

Roy

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JEREMIDE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 DODGE CARAVAN
Hello!

I'd appreciate any help on this. I planned to sell the van this week, then the trouble started.

The van stalls SOMETIMES at a red light or while making a low-speed turn. It always starts immediately. No trouble with starting, hot or cold. The serpentine belt is less than 6 months old, but does show slight wear in places on the outside edge (passenger side). Occasionally, I'll hear the "power-steering groan" of turning the wheel sharply. Would that be related to the stalling in a turn? However, this wouldn't have anything to do with the van stalling at a light, would it? I replaced the fuel filter yesterday, blindly troubleshooting on a tight budget. Old filter had Chrysler logo on it, making me think it was probably quite old.

What should I try next?

Thanks!
Jeremy

97 Dodge Caravan SE
3.0 V6 engine
185,000 miles
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JEREMIDE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
First time I've noticed this. Turned the key (to "on", but didn't start the engine) tonight, and heard a "rumbling" or knocking, almost. Tried it a few more times, with some similar results. Fuel pump? Will a computer diagnostic test tell me accurately?

Thanks!
Jeremy
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IVANJONN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 3.3L
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 192,000 MILES
Hello, I have the sport model.

Recently I have been having an odd intermittent problem, where the van would shut off at random, usually at a stop. Sometimes while driving the van shuts off as well, but only for about a half a second as it gives a quick shudder and the engine light comes on as if it has turned off, but turns back off as the van remains on. At random points, if the key is in the "on" position but the engine is not on for a long period of time, the van will only crank but will not start. This would be solved by unplugging the camshaft position sensor and plugging it back in. I have already replaced this part a few weeks ago, but I am unsure if it is maybe a faulty sensor causing an intermittent problem, or if it might be bad wiring or even a different sensor. How should I go about this problem next?

Thank you so much!
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Try cleaning the throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner. then scan for codes see if anything gets picked up. it could be the crank sensor or connection as they can go bad as well as cam sensor. finally check fuel pressure with a gauge see if it is in spec. See link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2020 AT 11:43 AM (Merged)

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