crankshaft angle sensor?

It is located in the center of the rear engine area and int he front depending on which style you have . It's below center exhaust port mounted in engine block. There is one screw that holds it in place. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

My car started running bad, stalling at low speed. Tested with a diagnostic tester. Code said it was the crankshaft position sensor.

they can go bad so replace it and see if it makes a difference. if it continues try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner. it just has one bolt and an electrical connection may be hard to reach however as it is by the transmission.

Electrical problem
1996 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic
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i am trying to start my car it tries to start but it just cranks i just changed the ignition module and still doesnt start, it is getting fuel i checked that , it's pulsing , but no spark , we try to crank it , how can i take out the crank senson it's a lumina 3.1 1996

if your getting injector pulse then the crank sensor should be good. i would suspect bad ignition module, coil signal wire to the coil. icm wiring harness.

Where is the crank sensor on a 3.1 motor? On what part of the motor is it located or is it behind some part of the motor? Please help me!

On your 1992 Chevrolet Lumina-Sedan/Coupe 3.1L MFI OHV, the crankshaft position sensor is located: Under hood, passenger side, lower engine area, passenger side of engine block, mounted front of crankshaft pulley. Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when changing the sensor out and diagrams to show you what it will be like on your car below.

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

How do I replace the crank position sensor without removing the intake manifold? The sensor appears to have no easy access for replacing.

Hello,

Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when doing the job and the location for where is is on your car below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

The sensor in under the ignition coil.

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

I have tried locating it with different repair manuals and databases and nothing tells me where the sensor is located. Please help!

It is on the lower rear right of engine by the oil pan. If you look from above the transmission and shine a light down there you will see the wires going to it. Not very easy to get to.

Under hood, center, rear engine area, passenger side of exhaust pipe, above oil pan, mounted in engine block.

I agree, not very easy. Safely raise and support the vehicle, so you can get at it. Even after you remove the hold-down bolt, may be very stubborn. If that is the original sensor, that flange is very thin and very brittle. Use a long shank screwdriver, after you remove hold down bolt and electrical connector. Place the tip of screwdriver in sensor electrical socket, push up, as hard as you can. If the sensor pops up a little, you can probably remove the rest of way with your hand. Maybe you will get lucky and it will be easy to remove. I usually do not get that lucky.

My mother's 1990 Lumina Sedan suddenly refused to start the after she had ridden it the day before without any issues for years. Last time it had a problem was when it suddenly quit running about twelve years ago and I believe the mechanic said it was the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). If I remember right he said he bypassed it so that it would never cause any future issues. And whatever he did worked well for years, I have a few questions, is bypassing the CPS possible? After trouble shooting this car now for the last ten days, we eliminated fuses and such and to me it looked like it could be possibly the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Electronic Control Module (ECM/PCM). Took it in to a garage and after their analysis they said it was probably all three. I said that is impossible for all three to bad at the same time. So they convince me to replace the least expensive part, the CPS. If fact they said there are two CPS's in the Lumina one in the oil pan and one outside (I do not believe there is two). Anyway silly me agreed to let them change the outside one which is the only one I am aware of. Needless to say once replaced the car still did not start (still has no spark at the coming of the spark plugs). So now they thinking to replace the IGM, then next possibly the ECM. I am reluctant to give them the okay to replaced these in fear that the bill mounting up and there is no guarantee that after all three parts are replaced that the car will start. My initial thoughts was that the ICM had gone, only wished that they had started there first. Any opinions?

If there is no spark it is either your brain (ECM) or the Igniter (ICM). This is just from what I have learned. I am no expert. All my problems after replacing the ECM had to do with the fuel system. I replaced all the injectors and the fuel pressure regulator. I hope that this helps. However, your best bet is to post the free question to the mechanic's forum yourself and they will assist you more. Good Luck!

Dag, I do not know how the mechanic would bypass the crank sensor?

Engine Performance problem 1990 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic Where is the crankshaft located on a 1990 Chevy lumina 3.1 V6

engine?

On your 1990 Chevrolet Lumina-Sedan/Coupe (3.1L MFI OHV), the Crankshaft Position Sensor is located:
Under hood, center, rear engine area, passenger side of exhaust pipe, above oil pan, mounted in engine block

Engine Performance problem
1990 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

my car is running like it is burping. I replace the crankshaft sensor because it quit running. it has don this before. it started and i drove it less than a mile and it wont start. what would you suggest?

Welcome to the forum. How long since a tune-up? If it cranks good but won't start, I'd have a helper crank it, while I check for spark at the plugs. If spark everywhere, I'd use a gage and check fuel pressure. I'd also check for mil codes. To check for trouble codes, place a jumper wire between the A & B terminals at the datalink connector, turn the key till the dash lites come on, no further. The mil starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. Your looking for two digit codes. That picture below is a generic GM obd1 datalink connector.

Engine Mechanical problem
1990 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Where would I find the crank sensor on a 1990 chevy alumina euro 3.1

the crankshaft sencer is on the back of the engine and under the exust manafold tight fit easy'st way i can think to get there is take the passanger wheel off and take off all the plastic and you should pretty much be there

[quote="Tommy1985"]the crankshaft sencer is on the back of the engine and under the exust manafold tight fit easy'st way i can think to get there is take the passanger wheel off and take off all the plastic and you should pretty much be there[/
quote]

I did that but there was no plastic to remove. Is it off to one side or the middle. Can it be reached from under the car

jack the motor as far foward as possible and reach back there unless you wanna take off the exhaust manafold

1990 chevrolet lumina 3.1 I was changing the crankshaft position sensor and the top broke off , what now?

That could be a big problem now. You might try using an acetylene torch with a small, hot tip and try to heat the sensor itself enough to melt the O-ring which is what it holding it.

Get an "easy out" set. They look like weird drill bits that get tighter as you turn them to the left. You can also drill out the center of the crank sensor to help get the "easy out" into it. Just be careful because the sensor is plastic and you want to try and get it out as 1 piece without breaking it.

Good luck trying to drill out that sensor with the transaxle sitting in front of it.

I just went through this ordeal, so I thought I'd share some tips.
I won't cover what the CPS does, or how to diagnose it. Once you've determined you need to change it, here are some strong "hints".

1. It's located on the back of the block. On an 89 3.1 I was able to crawl under and work on it from the bottom. Find a two-wire connector. Connector is set at a 90 degree angle to the block.

2. After Unplugging connector and moving it well out of the way, you need to soak where the sensor meets the block (all the way around) with some type of cleaner or penetrant. The advise I got was CARB cleaner, because there is coking from the engine that needs to be broken down. I used Berryman's and it helped. NOTE that carb cleaners can be VERY toxic!! Where it touched my hands, my hands were burning. Wear gloves, eye, nose/mouth protection. Actually I didn't even spray the stuff directly. I took a cotton ball, soaked it in the cleaner, and then patted around the area.

If you have the luxury of time, I recommend you soak, wait a day, soak again.

3. When you go to pull the sensor, be gentle. The plastic will be very brittle from the years. Try to pull straight out when you are pulling. Occasionally twisting it (but never side to side) will help. You may have to resort to using a screwdriver to pry. If so, try to use a very wide screwdriver, and better yet put one on each side of the sensor and work them together. If you hear cracking, in my opinion, stop and soak it some more.

4. If it breaks (and it did for me), and you don't have anything you can grab with pliers or it broke too deep to insert pliers, the advice given me was to take a metal pick or a drywall screw and heat it up red-hot with a torch, then poke into the plastic sensor. Allow to harden and cool, then pull out. NEVER do this with carb cleaner or other solvents in the area, wait till those have completely dried. I chose a drywall screw about 2.5" in length, locked into vice grip pliers. I had a helper heat the screw red hot (stuck my arm out from under the car), and then i gently but with some pressure pressed into the sensor. Wait two minutes, and pull. Repeat over and over and it comes out.

Yes there are other possibilities (pushing it out from the inside if you've dropped the oil pan, or pushing it into the block and then leaving it or taking off the pan to get it out) but I believe this is the fastest way.

Hope this helps someone!

This question was from 3 months ago so expect he has repaired it by now.