Engine not starting

You need a gauge and auto parts rent it as well least the bigger ones do. You will also need a gauge to check compression.

Check the fuel pressure if its within specs, could be caused by the following:

Probable causes of an engine running rich are as follows:

1. Excessive fuel pressure can be cause by restricted fuel return line or defective fuel pressure regulator.
2. Defective Oxygen Sensors.
3. Leaking injectors and fuel pressure regulator.
4. Coolant temperature sensor out of calibration.
5. Restricted air intake system

It sounds pretty much like the motor is shot due to your compression readings. You can pull the heads and look for damage, it may be just bent valves but I think it may be more. Start there. Then you can asses whether or not it is cost effiecient to fix the car or not with a 19 yr old car I would not put the money in it.

Disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine and have helper crank engine over-Do you have spark?

Inbox : Message
From: rileytj
To: rasmataz
Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 3:05 am
Subject: spark
The car does not have a normal cap and rotor with plug wires so I am not able to do that test. It has modules. So do you know a good way to test it with these?

You have a DIS-okay try testing the camshaft and crankshaft sensor-the computer has to see signals from them in order to tell the ignition control module to fire the coil

Many DIS systems use the "waste spark" setup where one coil fires a pair of spark plugs that are opposite one another in the firing order. Others, including the newer coil-over-plug systems, have a separate coil for each spark plug.

Individual DIS coils are tested in essentially the same way as epoxy-filled (square-type) ignition coils. First, isolate the coil pack by disconnecting all the leads. Set the ohmmeter in the low range, and recalibrate if necessary. Connect the ohmmeter leads across the ignition coil primary terminals, and compare the primary resistance reading to specifications (typically less than 2 ohms). Then connect the ohmmeter leads across the coil secondary terminals and compare the secondary resistance reading to specifications (typically 6,000-30,000 ohms). If readings are outside the specified range, the coil is defective and needs to be replaced.

If measuring the secondary resistance of a DIS coil is difficult because of the coils location, try removing the wires from the spark plugs and measure secondary resistance through the plug wires rather than at the secondary terminals on the coils. Just remember to add in a maximum of 8,000 ohms of resistance per foot for the plug wires.

Could be if its soaked and also might be a problem with excessive fuel pressure or injector/s leaking.

Even tried starting fluid. The car is getting fuel,

Did you do an ignition spark test if not do so and comeback with results this is where we start.

Check to see if you have spark and fuel to the engine.

Then either you jumped time or lost compression. Check that next

Do you have any codes, do you have injection pulse are you sure that the timing is correct?Did you turn the cams with the bet off?