Had a problem with rough idle at stop for about.

Maybe a stupid question but how do I check for the leaks? Spray something on the hoses?

Thanks Roy.

Looked up smoke testing. So I grabbed some hose and some cheap nasty tasting (and smelling) cigars. I found that my throttle body was not sealed all the way on the underside so I will fix that. While I was in that area, I happened to look at the metal tube that runs from the egr to the throttle body area. Something did not look right. Look closer with a mini mag flashlight and it looked clogged up. Grabbed a small bit of clothes hanger and tried to run it into the tube. No luck. Now I have the tube out and tried to blow through it. No go. I am not a genius but I would have to guess that the tube is not allowing an airflow. Lol. Going to clean it, seal the carb with a new gasket ring and the Wife is out getting me some hose and clamps to replace a couple of small section. Will let you know how things are after I reassemble everything.

Nope. Did not fix that problem. Me and a friend of mine with over all the seals and sensors and general stuff on the top of the engine. The more we dug, the more stuff we found. Cam Sensor needs a new seal and the wiring to it is shot, so I got a little rewiring to do. Got some silicone work to do too. After all that. We will dig more. Looks like the problem might be a combination of things as far as we can tell. Going to be an adventure.

Thought I would add some closure to this due to so many on they web leaving you in the air if a car was fixed.

I had 2 problems. 1st up was the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp.) Sensor. The car ran like utter crap the other day so went to checking more sensors. The ECT read something like 6.6 ohms on the check and at minimum should have been 7. Changed that and the engine woke back up. Fixed.

2nd. The was a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. The way that was found was by getting frustrated and bumping the intake manifold with the palm of my hand near the #3 Spark plug. Only then you heard the hiss. Double checked with Mapp Gas. Bumped it and the hiss was gone and Mapp gas did nothing. Bump it until it hissed and the Mapp gas confirmed the leak. Tightened down bolts and boom. Fixed. Will be doing a gasket though soon.

Ok, apparently not fixed. I am going to keep adding to this thread even if there are no other replies for other Breeze owners who might run into the same search as I have online.

I did do a new gasket on the intake but a little after that back to a rough idle. I did the smoke and then the Mapp gas trick and found nothing.

Something made me want to check the battery and the Alternator. Voltmeter out and things were off. Reconfirmed at Advance with a full check. Battery way down on CCA and Alternator reading was off. Replaced both and the car smoothed out some. After returning old ones for core charge (car felt better going there). First stoplight back to rough idle and getting a little rougher. Even before the rpms dropped from @850 to @750.

All things I have replaced so far, I found bad with voltage reading or other readings with spec out of a Haynes manual. I did find (the only solution I found with a follow up a month later). A solution someone had by replacing the crankshaft position sensor. I am going to crawl under and backprobe that sensor and see what I get. The book indicates that the check could show if the sensor is bad or if the supply voltage is not there, then the PCM needs to be checked or replaced.

I am frustrated but have not given up yet.

Was not the Crankshaft sensor. Even though I wish I could post a photo of the hack job of wiring someone did which I fixed.

Of all the things. I never thought about the Evap system. I kept going after Air, Fire and Fuel. I never though of the Evap System until I took off the vacuum hose to the throttle body. The rpms shot up to 1000 and the engine became very smooth. The Canister Purge Valve Solenoid was sticking closed. So after the car got to the specified temp, it was not opening up the flow. The tube from the throttle body would act just like if you had your thumb blocking it.

For those with a Breeze (Mine is a 96 with a 2.0 engine) who may want to test the Purge Valve, it is very simple to do.
Over by the back of the passenger side headlight there is a hose that connects to a plastic tube that runs along the fuel rail. It leads to the Purge Valve. 1. Find where the rubber hose from the evap canister meets the plastic tube.
2. Start the car and get it to running temperature. That could around where the Thermostat opens or your car gets the rough idle.
3. While engine is running, disconnect the hose from the plastic tube.
4. If your engine stays rough and no change at all or very little change, then you probably have a bad Purge valve or maybe a blockage in the line. This test isolates that part of the system.
5. If your engine "wakes up" then the Purge Valve and hoses are probably good and you need to look further back in the Evap system. Like the canister, leak detector and so forth back to the gas tank.

I replace all the rubber hoses then took the compressor and a blower nozzle to make sure the line from the canister and line to the throttle body were clear. New Purge Valve and so far the car has been back to normal. Feels like I even picked up some power when going uphill.

You will never fix your problem. I am a master dogde. Tech for what its worth] the problem is you need a pcm flash. You will need to take it to a dealer[liers, users and theives] to get the flash or find someone who has a DRB III. You can look up the flash online. These cars came in all the time and the flash cured about 90% basic problem is fuel map is to lean at idle. No matter what you change the pcm will correct it [just like you idle experience] new injectors will help a little but you need the flash.

All this sounds eerily familiar. I am currently dealing with a 1999 Plymouth Breeze 312, xxx miles. Ran great until water pump started squealing. Replaced it and timing belt and tensioner pulley assembly. I had replaced the Cam Shaft Position Sensor about 8 months earlier and discovered it works like a Thrust Bolt holding the Cam in position. Since it was extremely worn the Cam had migrated to the Left of the motor causing serious fray on the Timing Belt on the opposite side. Didn't know this at the time.

I'm a Ford guy and this was my first Dodge. It was given to me and several of the parts it needed to repair it. Was a great back and forth to work car as it has it's share of Hail damage and it was in Michigan for years and never washed, serious body rot going on but still looks okay. It's been sitting for a year due to this very problem and I was working 7 x 12 and simply didn't have the time to dedicate to it now I do and I'm resurrecting it for my youngest's first car.

Having pulsating idle issues once it warms up, delayed acceleration unless you mash it to the floor still it pauses for a half second or so before responding. It hangs in lower gear at high speeds when you let off the throttle, actually dragging you down like a manual tranny before it up-shifts. Same with downshifting when you hit the gas it literally feels like your about to stall but than it downshifts but you've lost some of the momentum so you get that going to stall feeling.

I've been all over this thing, thought it might have skipped time on me, tore it all apart again, reset timing, new plugs and wires, radical improvement but it came back again. Throwing a code for "Adaptive Fuel Strategy Too Rich". I have checked all sensors, O2, MAP, IAC, TPC, ECT Dodge doesn't use a MAF (Data from the MAF indicates it's trying to adjust for the Rich condition but dials it back to far and adjusts for that only to end up in this back and fort so no check for it, Fuel Pressure, Fuel Injectors, plus Niod Light for Pulse and they are reading with in specs according to Haynes. I pull the battery for a day or two while I'm working on it which resets the code and it runs great for a day or two than it goes back the way it was before and give it another day or two and the check engine light comes on and that same code is back.

Everything points to vacuum issues but I can't find the leak. The Smoke Test idea sounds great so headed out to do some of what I learned here.

BTW Thank you for being so diligent in follow up, you're right nobody ever does tell you what they finally did that solved the problem.

I started with the EVAP system a few years back when I first got it as it had all sorts of problems that all pointed to vacuum or EVAP only to learn there must have been a Tech Bulletin out from a recall on the EVAP system because half of it is missing back under at the gas tank area and all the one's at the Junk yard, personally inspected at least a dozen or more, have the same parts missing and work done to cap off parts of it. I think I remember reading something about this retro fit due to refueling problems, can't remember specifics.

Given I used to be one of the few guys at Ford's St. Louis Assembly Plant that did all the EEC, PCM, & BCE control system repairs on the Aerostar and Explorer vehicles I have a lot of experience with PCM related internal issues and my gut just keeps telling me it's something in the PCM code. Especially when you look up this "Adaptive Fuel Strategy" It's a learned behavior that is than written into the volatile memory of the PCM and used during times when there is insufficient data from the sensors to make fuel air ratio adjustments, like at start up.

I know this is old thread but any of you out there listening still have any idea on this?

In all my 52 years I've never not been able to fix any car. This one has me questioning my abilities and sometimes my sanity. My daughter loves this car despite it's clear coat peeling off and the body cancer along the rockers when you open the doors. I've fixed most everything on it for her but this issue and it's not safe when pulling into traffic. It can be as I use both timing the traffic, knowing it will include a 1-2 second throttle response and she's actually learning to drive it this way but it needs to be right. This is my baby and its' one thing if I want to drive it like this but I don't want her to have to deal with this issue. She's a new driver and needs it right.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Data from the MAP sensor not the MAF.

Voltage varies based off change in vacuum due to change in RPM's. It's very noticeable in gear while under load, not so much in idle at Park. Pulsating is very consistent with respect time it spends RPM'sup to time it spends RPM's down.