Engine stalling at idle?

Tiny
HEAVYDUTY
  • MEMBER
  • 60 POSTS
Yes it could be a fuel pump problem but first look at the vacuum lines at the back drivers side of the upper intake plenum. They get soft and leak or fall off which can cause your symptoms
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AHLJR
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
My mistake the code was for the O2 sensor. I am going to replace it and see if that helps.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BHUGG
  • MECHANIC
  • 157 POSTS
I had the same type of problem in my 1993 Explorer. It turned out to be a bad electronic engine controls relay. It is a small box relay under the hood in the relay/fuse box.
Good luck.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEITHK32060
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD EXPLORER
Transmission problem
1994 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive 200000 miles

I have a 1994 Ford Explorer. It runs great in park and in neutral but as soon as I put it in gear it shuts right off. There were no warning signs it just shut off at a red light. It starts up great and the engine is running true. When I engage it into gear (forward or reverse) it slightly bucks and shuts right off. Any help? I am truely lost and this is my only vehicle. I need to fix it fast.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JGAROFALO
  • MECHANIC
  • 489 POSTS
This sounds like your torque converter is not unlocking as it should. This is a mechenical problem with the transmission, and not a quick fix. Sorry.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
COMMSOUND
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 141,000 MILES
Car was running very well up until Friday afternoon. My wife had iit and she said that when she started it something popped and she saw some smoke from under the hood. Now it won't idle correctly. Drives OK at around 1200-1500 RPM but tends to want to cruise at around 1200 when you take your foot off the gas. When you stop at a light, it will sometimes drop to less than 500 RPM and stall and need to be restarted. Then when you shift it into gear it is idling too fast and slams the transmission into gear. (Not good)

I think something electrical burned up Friday. Hope it's not the computer. What are the other possibilities if any?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
The check engine light is probably on? Reading the code(s) is the first step here, here's how:
Jump the two termnals shown together and turn key to "ON" and count the flashes... a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 11 or 111. Write them down and post here. First do this with the key on engine off, then again with it running.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HLOFTON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,000 MILES
My truck is stalling out for some reason at lights or stop every now and then. Could be a IAC problem, fuel pump, or maybe a gas filter issue?

Howard
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BHUGG
  • MECHANIC
  • 157 POSTS
Is the engine stopping like there is a power failure? I had this happen to me and I replaced the engine controls relay under the hood in the fuse/relay box.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CURTISRSHIDELER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
My 92 Ford Explorer, Eddie Bauer edition was running fine when I left town last week, but when I got back and started it up, the engine was running very choppy and making a revving sound when idle. If left in park, it now stalls. If idle at a light it gets really choppy, but hasn't stalled yet. I have been putting it into neutral when at lights, which makes it run less choppy.

I am not very familiar with this vehicle, as I just purchased it. Does this sound like a transmission problem? I'm about to take it in for an oil change, and I know they are going to bring up something else. I'd just like to know what that could be so they don't take me for all I have!

Thanks for any help you can give!
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JGAROFALO
  • MECHANIC
  • 489 POSTS
Are there any other symptoms? Is coolant level OK, and not losing coolant? Is there any smoking?

If all else is OK, I would suggest checking for trouble codes. Other possible suspects - EGR leakage, spark plug misfiring, coil pack and ignition wiring.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AMY JO WATKINS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 600,000 MILES
I have two major issues and I am not sure if they are connected or two separate issues. The first one is overheating it tends to overheat while going at slow speeds in traffic, but also sometimes on the freeway. My other issue is stalling and shutting off mostly after it has been driven for a while and then in stop-and-go traffic, it stalls out every time I take my foot off the gas and it is either while driving or sitting and idling. Things I have replaced since I bought the truck are the thermostat, mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensor, fuel filter, idle air control valve, and it also seems to be leaking transmission fluid but not visibly. I recently took the thermostat out and have been driving without it and it seems to still overheat without the thermostat in place. Could anyone please help me to figure out what is wrong with my vehicle?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Hello,

When the engine is over heating can you hear the fan clutch kick in, it sounds like a small airplane is next to you so it is noticeable. If not then the fan clutch needs to be replaced. Here is a guide to help you get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/fan-clutch-removal

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please let us know what happens, we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LUKE920
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
  • FORD EXPLORER
I am a poor student and own an old Ford explorer(134K miles, 4D, 2WD, auto transmission). Recently, I did oil change and then a new problem appeared. When I started my car, the engine speed gauge showed around 1500 rpm with the noise. But when I loosed the key, the engine speed was suddenly shown a sharp jump down to below 300 and the engine sound also almost disappeared. Mostly, the engine quited working and sometimes the idling speed automatically jumped up to over 800 rpm in half second. And I could feel the shaking of the car at “P” gear. I searched on website about this issue. Someone thinks it is because the idle air control motor failed to work? What do you expert think about my situatioin? How much if I have to replace it(part? Labor?) Please help me, I really expect and appreciate any advice from you.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
The Idle Air Control Valve will definately do that-that's your 1st area to look at. Who knows taking it out and cleaning with carb cleaner will fix it.

See below for location


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_1995_Ford_Explorer_IACV_1.jpg

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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LUKE920
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Hi Rasmataz, many thanks for you reply. I will go to see mechanic this week. Before I go, I would like to know how much this IAC part will cost and also how long labor for replacing it, could you please send me some ideas? I am so upset to repair my truck so often. Again, Thank you very much!
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Base on today's market dunno about the labor-it varies on locations $60-120.00 per hr.

Price:1995 95 Ford Explorer Idle Air Control Valve

Amount: $92.79 shop around for the cheapest shop-if not attempt to take it and clean it out-might save the money for the kids for Christmas.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LUKE920
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Thank you very much. I will keep you informed:->
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Please! Do so you're one of our valuable customer and feel free to tell friends and families about 2carpros. Com Thank You
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LUKE920
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Rasmataz, you are great! Finally, I went to autozone to buy a new one($61) and replaced the old one in a garage ($30). Though I feel a little bit upset because I could have replaced it by myself when I saw they replaced it so easily! Anyway, the problem has been solved. Hope the information is helpful for other people. Thank you, Rasmataz.

Btw, they told me that the upper ball joint (with arms) on the left front side is bad today. I am just wondering WHEN I have to replace it. This old car already ate me too much money. I mean, in what bad situation, I DO have to replace it? Now there is no any noise from there when I drive. I appreciate it!
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)

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