ASD Fuse Blowing?

Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 220,000 MILES
With ignition on, the ASD fuse blows, I bought this truck used and it had been running good for over a year, the 02 censors that goes into the exhausts were unplugged and not being used, I cannot find the plugs that go from the truck to the sensors. The lower o2 sensor doesn't even have a plug, just wires cut. I live in a no smog area, so I never bothered to fix it. I just get new plugs when it gets rough. I know I should fix it.

Anyways, I have read a post on here where someone had a similar problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-dodge-dakota-truck-wont-start

I followed that and checked wires, connectors, unplugged coil and the like. I did the bulb test and only got the bulb to turn off from the fuse terminals after unplugging the black connector on the PCM, also the light will dim if I unplugged the right side grey one as well. Does this mean my PCM is bad?

A little background on the problem,
After fixing the trailer lights that were wired weird I had no break lights and after tracing wires and looking in the OEM shop manual I found the break switch led to the multipurpose switch on the turn signal lever.

I moved those wires about and the brake lights started working again, I marked it up to living on a rural dirt road and the thing wiggled loose or something like that.

I put everything back together and drove to the gas station about 5 miles, coming home truck died on me, it fired back up and got me home. The next day I drove it about 500 feet and died again, fuel pump wasn't working, at this point I did not notice the blown ASD fuse. The fuel pump would not pump, and the electric fan would stay on with key on, I unplugged the ASD relay, and the pump would work, but engine wasn't getting spark or fuel pressure was bad.

I then dug into the book and internet and began to double check everything and noticed the fuse blown. There was a 60amp in where it should have been a 30 amp for the ASD.

Without that fuse in I cannot get the computer to give me a code I did for a short time get a code after soldiering the fuse back together, for an air intake sensor (PO113) but then the fuse blew and lost connection.

I did the light bulb test and got the light to go off as said above and that was the only way for me to get it to turn off or dim with the other plug unplugged. I tried wiggling wires, unplugged coil messing with fuel injector wires and well I can't find the o2 wires. I hooked up a wire chaser beeper to the fuse terminals and have beeping sound over at the PCM plug.

I don't want to spend 200 on a new PCM if it's not the problem so any help will be much appreciated. I'm not a mechanic by trade but I can read and watch videos and figure most things out. Like my pop always said "if there's a will, there's a way".

Thanks!
Monday, December 12th, 2022 AT 1:48 PM

27 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Hi,

When you say the ASD fuse fails, are you referring to fuse D in the under-hood power distribution box? Also, that is the actual power supply to the fuel pump and injectors in addition to the ASD relay. See the pic attached.

If you remove the fuel pump relay, does the fuse fail? If so, if you remove the ASD relay does it fail?

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, December 13th, 2022 AT 8:46 PM
Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
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Thanks for the reply,

Yes fuse D is the one that fails, I unplugged the ASD relay and the light stayed on, put it back in and unplugged the fuel pump relay and the light dimmed along with the ASD relay clicking constantly along with the picture attached that is on the other side of the engine bay. I do not know what this is called, but it too was clicking continuously. I tried using another relay and it did not solve the problem.

Thanks again!
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Wednesday, December 14th, 2022 AT 12:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

That is the charcoal canister purge solenoid. If you disconnect it, does the relay do the same thing?

If it does, I have a feeling the issue is within the fuse/relay box.

Let me know.

Take care,

joe

See pic below.
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Wednesday, December 14th, 2022 AT 9:22 PM
Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
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I disconnected the purge solenoid, and the relay still clicks continuously with the bulb dimmed.

Thanks.
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Thursday, December 15th, 2022 AT 11:59 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

I noticed you mentioned the bulb dimmed a few times. Where are you checking for power? Also, how dim does it get?

If the relay is clicking fast, we may simply have a faulty ground. I have questions. With the ASD relay or the fuel pump relay removed, does fuse D still fail?

Also, locate the ground from the pump module and inspect it for corrosion or damage. See pic 1 below.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, December 15th, 2022 AT 6:15 PM
Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
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I will try and locate the ground tomorrow.

I will also put in a fuse and see if it will fail with the fuel pump relay removed, that is when the light dims. It will still fail if only the ASD relay is removed.

As for the bulb, I hooked up a light to the fuse box because the fuses pop instantly, so I didn't want to keep re soldering them/replacing new ones. I found that tip in the original post I did with the internet link. It gets really dim to were only a slight orange glow is seen across the filament

Here is a pic of it but this is full brightness.

Thanks
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Thursday, December 15th, 2022 AT 7:07 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

If you find the light dims with the pump relay removed, remove both and see what happens. There shouldn't be a chance at all with both out.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, December 15th, 2022 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
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Hello,

I put the fuse in, and it didn't fail with the fuel pump relay removed so that's good, I still had the ASD relay in, I tried looking for the ground and will have to look again tomorrow, I will try and trace the wire.

Also, I put the computer reader on and still only have one code for the air intake temperature sensor. It had a fan relay code, but I have it unplugged during testing due to it staying on with the current problem.

Here is a picture from my shop manual, I have a question about it.
What are the underlined letter and numbers for? I did not see a reference in the book
EXP: G201, S204, C207

Thanks
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Friday, December 16th, 2022 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Those indicate grounds, connectors, and splices. The number after the letter provides specific locations.

So, when you had both the ASD and fuel pump relays connected, the fuse didn't fail? Is that correct? Did it fail if you turned on the key?

Let me know about the ground. I'm interested in knowing what you find.

Joe
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Friday, December 16th, 2022 AT 9:35 PM
Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
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Hello,

Negative I had the ASD in and the fuel relay removed. Which was what would make the light go dim, and so I had put in the fuse and it did not fail.

I check for the ground and I'm guessing the picture I will attach below. Not sure if it is the right one I'm testing with my meter but it is ground.

I did some test today and had some interesting results, although I could just be doing something wrong as well. Haha. I did a series of test and wrote it all down. Here it goes.

Because I could not find the ground 100% confirmed I figured I would raise the bed and disconnect the fuel pump and try these test.

These are with fuel pump connected,

1. ASD relay & Fuel Pump relay in- Light was bright
2. ASD relay in, Fuel Pump relay out- Light was bright.
3. ASD relay out, Fuel Pump relay in, Light was bright(this is what I thought worked yesterday)

Now with the pump disconnected at the tank,

1. ASD relay & Fuel Pump relay in- Light Bright
2. ASD relay in, Fuel Pump Relay out- Light Bright
3. ASD relay out, Fuel relay in- Light Dimmed

I re read my post to see what I had done and I had typed, I had fuel pump relay out and ASD relay in and the light dimmed but now it seems to be the opposite.

I'm going to take a break from this tomorrow and on Monday re check everything and keep notes of all of this like I did today. I may be confusing myself and do this test again, I'm starting to lose my train of thought on this one. Haha.

I do really appreciate the help. I hope you have a nice weekend. Thanks a ton!
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Saturday, December 17th, 2022 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I went through the power distribution schematics again. Regardless of having a relay removed, the light shouldn't dim unless there is an issue with a splice.

Both relays have power from fuse D. Power runs to a splice where it goes to both relays and to the PCM. See pic below.

We need to locate and inspect that splice. I have a feeling that is where the problem is. If you go to the PCM, locate the red wire with a white tracer. If you follow it about 1 to 2 feet, it should take you to that splice.

Let me know if you find it.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, December 17th, 2022 AT 10:58 PM
Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
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Hello,

I traced the wire and found the splice.

It had shrink wrap and a ton of glue holding the four wires together so I cut it out and re-spliced. Same ol same ol. Light still on for the fuse.

I tried moving those wires and the red/white all the way to the PCM and nothing happens light never dimmed.

Ok, I re ran my test again and came with these results this time.

Fuel pump hooked up,

1. ASD & Fuel relay in - Light Bright
2. ASD out, Fuel relay in - Light Bright
3. ASD in, Fuel relay out - Light Dim

Fuel pump disconnected,

All series of test showed light dim and ASD relay clicking when plugged in.

Question, why was I not getting that result before? All I did today was splice the wires, move about the wires to the PCM and also plugging in the Fuel Pump and unplugging it, I did the same exact test the other day with different results

Let me know what you think.

What's next?

Thanks!
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Monday, December 19th, 2022 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I have a feeling the PCM is the issue. Disconnect it and see if the relay still reacts the same. Other than a problem in the fuse box, which is the last thing left.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, December 19th, 2022 AT 4:11 PM
Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
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Hello,

When I unplug the black connector, which has the red/white wire going to it from the fuse box, the light goes out completely.

If I keep that one in and pull out the grey one on the opposite side the light kind of dims/flickers.

The middle one does nothing to the light.

What do you think I should do get a new PCM? I found a place online that sells them and will flash them, not sure if that's the way to go or not.

Thanks!
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Wednesday, December 21st, 2022 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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If I could jump in here, a shorted injector or ignition cold can cause the ASD relay fuse to blow, also if an O2 heater has touched ground it will blow the fuse. I would check the wiring to make sure nothing is touching ground and disconnect the sensors, coils, injectors as a group, until the fuse stays good, this will help narrow down the problem. The PCM can blow the fuse as well but let's check out the peripherals first. Let us know.
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Thursday, December 22nd, 2022 AT 11:16 AM
Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
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Okay, thanks. I have the coil disconnected, that was the first thing I checked. I will try unplugging the injectors one by one to see if that does anything. As for the o2 heater wires I'll look again, I'm not sure if the previous owner got rid of them entirely or they are somewhere I cannot see them.

I will have another go at it tomorrow or Saturday.

Thank you.
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Thursday, December 22nd, 2022 AT 6:22 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Sounds good let us know.
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Friday, December 23rd, 2022 AT 12:41 PM
Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
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Hello,

I removed the air intake to get to the injectors and unplugged them one by one and the fuse still stayed on, I guess that rules them out, I did possibly find the problem.

I found some wires that were cut and messed up that were back behind the engine, I will put pics below, one of the wires went to the air intake sensor I believe. As for the others I cannot see where they went, maybe to that o2 sensor, the color of the wires do not match the exhaust side of the wires but there would have been a connector they went to.

The cut wire colors are,

Brown/white
Green/orange
Black/grey
Black/red
Black/blue

I made sure none of these wires were grounding out and turned the key to on and the light still stays lit. Also seems as if the fuel pump now stays on all the time instead of on for a few secs with key on and then stopping until I try to start.

I would also like to add that these wires look like they were cut, and the green/orange looks like the copper wire has turned grey and is missing a lot of the plastic around it.

Thanks!
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Tuesday, December 27th, 2022 AT 12:12 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

If there is a dark green/orange, that is what powers the fuel injectors and ignition coil from the ASD. If you turn the key on, is there power to that wire? (See pics 1 and 2)

This wire is my prime suspect at this point. If it is shorted, it will cause the fuse to fail.

The brown/white wire is related to the operation of the idle air control circuit. That runs between the IAC and the PCM.

The black/red wire is for the intake air temperature sensor.

I am not finding anything for black/grey or black/blue. Recheck them to confirm.

So, my first suspect is the green/orange wire (at least to get it to start and prevent ASD fuse failure.

I need you to separate that wire. Turn the key on with a good ASD fuse and see if there is power to it. If there isn't, we need to find the opposite side of that wire and perform the same test. As mentioned, it runs from the ASD secondary side to the fuel injectors, and then from there to the coil. We need to see where it was broken or cut.

If there is no power, check to see if there is continuity to ground from that wire that would indicate a short.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pic below.
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Wednesday, December 28th, 2022 AT 11:25 AM
Tiny
THEEBUZZARD
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Hello,

Firstly, thanks again for all this help. Much appreciated.

Okay I tested that wire and it read.63 .73 volts, but when I put my test light on it, it doesn't light up.

Do I need to have a fuse in to test it or can I use the bulb? I don't want to blow a fuse, so I used the bulb.

So, it is getting power, the color of the actual wire and not the coating leads me to believe it was grounding out on something. It looks discolored and fried.

I looked at the wires from the schematics you posted, and I don't believe this wire goes to the fuel injectors, they seem to be all there, same with the coil wire. This one just leads to nothing like the other cut ones. I will post some pics.

Thanks!
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Monday, January 2nd, 2023 AT 1:44 PM

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