Engine stalling (shutting down)

The most common cause of stalling is the crankshaft position sensor. They tend to fail when they get warm, then work again after they cool down for about an hour. The fault code, however, is related to the MAP sensor. It can cause stalling too when there's a problem in that circuit. The code makes reference to a missing 5 volt supply which would suggest there's a break in the wire feeding it, an intermittent connection in the electrical connector, or there could be an intermittent break internally.

Check the electrical connector first to see if any terminals are stretched or corroded. I never like to just throw parts at a problem but based on the code, you might try a new MAP sensor. Sometimes that's all you can do with problems that act up so intermittently.

Transmission problems are common today in any brand and model. It has a lot to do with making every single part as inexpensively as possibly that still gets the job done. Manufacturers make their money by selling product, not by making reliable products that don't break down and need to be replaced. They used to survive on repeat business from loyal customers, but there's so much government regulation, high wages and benefits, and competition, cost-cutting is the only place left to squeeze out a tiny profit. You and I pay for that cost-cutting in the form of numerous high-cost repairs and constant breakdowns from the insanely unnecessary and unreliable computers and cheap plastic parts. Well, ... I don't. I drive old stuff that seems to never break down, and I will until the government says I can't have those old cars. I have a bicycle ready for that day which is coming soon.

As for your stalling issue, I doubt it's related to the fuel pump. Unlike General Motors vehicles that suddenly let you sit on the side of the highway, Chrysler pumps rarely quit while they're running. Their typical problem when the brushes in the motor are worn is a failure to start up. Banging on the bottom of the gas tank often gets them going again for a few weeks.

The two most common things for stalling when hot are the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. The cam sensor lives inside the distributor. The ignition coil, also in the distributor, has been known to fail when hot too so most people just buy the entire rebuilt distributor. That seems to solve a lot of intermittent stalling issues, but if you have to guess, try a crank sensor first because it will have a much lower cost. You can keep the old one for a spare if it doesn't solve the problem. You might have to return your old distributor for a core, so you're out that part if it isn't the fix.