95 Saturn SL2 having problems

Tiny
DANHARVEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 SATURN SL2
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 143,000 MILES
My 95 saturn sl2 has been having trouble starting when warm and it takes me flooring the gas pedal to get it started. When driving it, the car sometimes accelerates on its own and sometimes when stopped the engine drops to really low rpms to the point of almost stalling and also sometimes when driving and letting go of the gas it will almost stall.
Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 10:16 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
If you have to hold your gas pedal to the floor to start it then you need a new coolant temp sensor. You have two you want to replace the bottom one with two wires going to it a black one and yellow one. Also inspect the connector terminals to it if there green or blue replace the connector to it also. The sensor is located bellow where the upper radiator hose goes on the head screwed into the head. Make sure the engine is cold you will loose coolant. You will need a 13mm deep socket and a ratchet the sensor is only 10 make sure you get a brass tipped one not a plastic tipped one. The plastic tipped ones crack. Let me know what you find and how it runs after you replace that.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 10:35 PM
Tiny
DANHARVEY
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Thanks and I also forgot to mention that when it does start and is left idling, it will keep dropping rpm at a slow rate.
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Tuesday, June 21st, 2011 AT 6:15 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
A bad coolant temp sensor can cause that also it tells the computer what temp the engine is and when they go bad they read colder then actual temp so the engine runs too rich. Replace the sensor and inspect the connecter like I said and let me know how it runs. Its really common for them to go bad.
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Tuesday, June 21st, 2011 AT 6:30 PM
Tiny
DANHARVEY
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  • 12 POSTS
Okay I changed the coolant temp sensor and took the car for a spin. After about 5 minutes of driving the car, the service engine soon light came on and then went off and then came back on again and stayed on. Before I started driving it, the idle was at 1100 rpm and when I got back, the idle was at around 700 rpm. Then after I would press the gas pedal down, the car would almost stall then jump up. Also, when I started the car, there was some rattling noises coming from the rear of the car and then there was a high pitched whining noise coming from the engine.
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Tuesday, June 21st, 2011 AT 11:07 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Did you change the bottom sensor with two wires going to it?Was the connector corroded?So is rattling in the rear only there while your trying to start the car?Where is the high pitched whining noise coming from the alternator idler pulley?What is your voltage reading at the battery cables while the car is idling?You said the ses light came on what code numbers do you have?
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Wednesday, June 22nd, 2011 AT 1:02 AM
Tiny
DANHARVEY
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Well I'm not sure how, but I went out for a drive today in it and the service engine soon light didn't come on, the car ran smooth, and my coolant gauge started working again. You were right and thanks for the help on my car.
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Thursday, June 23rd, 2011 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Glad to hear you got it running good again the temp gauge is ran by a differnt sensor then your coolant temp sensor. If the check engine light was coming on before you could have other issues. Do you know how to flash codes out of the check engine light?
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Friday, June 24th, 2011 AT 5:44 AM

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