Overheating checked thermostat in boiling water?

Tiny
JIM52
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 113,000 MILES
Silverado 5.7 liter 350. Replaced radiator, thermostat, water pump and gauge sensor. Engine temperature runs at 190 at idle. At 2000 rpm temperature runs to 250-260. Have checked thermostat in boiling water and it works. No sign at all of blown head gasket with emissions, power, smoke, etc. Will idle all day long at 190. Seems to be a flow problem somewhere? Could it be new water pump?
Fan and clutch good too.
Saturday, April 8th, 2017 AT 12:30 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
It sounds like the radiator is clogged either internally or externally, please go over this guide to see more.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

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Saturday, April 8th, 2017 AT 5:35 PM
Tiny
JIM52
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Checked fan by hand. Not loose, no play, spin good. Of course fan on while idle and temperature remains normal at about 190. Once on road or putting about 2000 rpm still, gauge maxes out and check gauge light comes on.
Hoses seem fine and appears I have flow, but have not checked them while increasing rpm. Since I know thermostat is good, should I pull it regardless to see if it still runs hot?
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Saturday, April 8th, 2017 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
Fire it up

'Listen to fan'

It is sort of freewheeling. Fan rpm is much slower than engine rpm.

Let it get to operating temperature.

'Continue to listen to fan'.

When the radiator gets to the right temperature it will activate the fan clutch (if it is working).

The fan will suddenly get a louder roar to it (it is easy to hear!).

When it cools the radiator back down, the roar will stop, and it is back to the freewheeling mode.

This cycle will continue over and over.

If you are doubting this, listen to someone else's vehicle that has a fan clutch.

If you never get the "strong roar", I would say the fan clutch is not working like it should.

Of course, the mechanical, part (not much or no resistance while turning by hand, floppy, wobble, locked up) would also deem a clutch as 'bad' too.

The Medic
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Saturday, April 8th, 2017 AT 6:41 PM
Tiny
JIM52
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Thanks, I will check the fan out tomorrow again as well the hoses.
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Saturday, April 8th, 2017 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
JIM52
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Ok car medic,
Installed new HD fan clutch today and it does gear up when truck reaches certain temp. New HD radiator, water pump, thermostat, and temp gauge relay. Ran at idle today for about 45 mins with cap off to re burp. Put another 1.5 gallons anti freeze in it and went for a drive. Still remained at 190 when warm at idle but at 2000 rpm, temp shoots back up to 240-250. Not showing any sign of blown head gasket but that seems to be only answer left I can think of? Any thoughts? And hoses fine too
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Saturday, April 15th, 2017 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,879 POSTS
Hi guys. As I was reading this, I was remembering this problem on my minivan. It was caused by corroded and rotted cooling fins on the radiator. Since you replaced the radiator, the next thought is HOW did you determine this is not due to a leaking cylinder head gasket? That isn't a common failure for this engine, but if combustion gases are getting into the cooling system, that can cause the thermostat to close. Thermostats have to be hit with hot liquid to open. Hot air won't do it. Once they open, air getting in SHOULD go to the reservoir, but when engine speed is a contributing factor, the volume of gas could overwhelm the thermostat.

The clue to this is a 200 degree radiator hose will be too hot to hold onto for very long. If the thermostat is closing, and the engine gets to 250 degrees, you'll still be able to hold onto the upper radiator hose. If that hose is much too hot to hold onto, feel the lower hose. If that one is also real hot, the heat is not being given up by the radiator. Possible causes of that are the fan shroud was removed, an excessively enthusiastic butterfly collection stuck in the AC condenser, the rubber seal along the front edge of the hood is missing, or there's unplugged holes in the core support. That's the sheet metal with the opening the radiator sits in. Any of those things can let the hot air from the radiator go around to the front and right back through the radiator again.

Removing the thermostat is not a valid test. Doing that can actually cause overheating because the hot coolant doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to give up its heat. If this happens, you won't have reached a valid conclusion.

You should also confirm the engine really is getting that hot. If you can still hold onto the radiator hose when the dash gauge says "250", it isn't. You need a scanner to view live data and see what the Engine Computer is seeing for coolant temperature. The computer uses a two-wire coolant temperature sensor. The dash gauge uses a different single-wire sensor. Both have an extremely low failure rate because there's just one component inside them, but if a sensor's readings suddenly shoot up faster than engine temperature can, I'd expect to find the sensor has a problem.
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Sunday, April 16th, 2017 AT 1:20 AM
Tiny
PLUM PLUMP BULLIES
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  • 3 POSTS
I have the exact same issue with the same type of truck. 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4. It only gets hot when close to the 2,000 RPM mark. Otherwise, while driving it in the city at regular speed the needle stays in the middle. All cooling parts are new. I can't seem to figure it out. Some folks said it may be poor lubrication where maybe the oil pump may not be sending the oil up. I want to know If JIM52 found a solution or what else you guys recommend checking?
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Friday, September 23rd, 2022 AT 10:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,772 POSTS
Hi,

Unfortunately, he never replied back. The idea that it only happens at 2,000 RPMs is odd. Does it happen if you are at higher RPMs? Also, when the temperature gauge increases, does the engine show signs of overheating? For example, is there any steam or coolant being forced out? Do you hear any boiling?

Do me a favor. I want you to check if the heater works when it is overheating. Actually, do it at both times, when overheating and when it isn't.

Let me know what you find,

Joe
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Friday, September 23rd, 2022 AT 11:09 PM
Tiny
PLUM PLUMP BULLIES
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you for the reply, Joe. So yeah basically the truck will idle with the needle right in the middle. And I can drive it around town with no issues driving it at regular speeds and stopping at lights even when in traffic. And the issue is that once I hit the highway and the truck is driving at around 1800 rpm and up. The temp gage starts creeping up. Until eventually almost gets to the max. The check gages light comes on and I've driven it like that and for a little bit or sometimes it will stop right away and wait for it to cooldown and resume my drive. The odd thing is that I've never really seen signs of overheating not even when I run it on plain water. I didn't do it often but lately I been flushing the system to make sure it's completely clean so I been running it with water for a few weeks. It never boils it steams. I don't have coolant loss either or leaks. I have a dual electric fan set up on switches and I'm always double checking that they are on. Besides for the temperature gage showing overheating I dnt really see any other signs besides a buldging top hose. But that is just because it's old. I plan on replacing that this weekend and hopefully change the tempature sending unit sensor. That is my last hope. The truck has great coolant flow. The fans are strong too.I dnt have the thermostat in it at the time. One major thing I left out and im not sure if this would cause the temperature to increase that much. I run the truck on LP gas. Its kinda like natural gas. They say that also makes the truck run a little hotter than usual. The oil preassure gage looks like it works just fine. The heater works in both modes when its at regular tempature and when its hot. I want to get a termometer to meassure the tempature directly and get rid of any doubts. I tried a lot of things. This issue is driving me crazy lol. I thank you in advance for any advise you can share with me?
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Thursday, September 29th, 2022 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,772 POSTS
Hi,

I like the idea that you want to get a thermometer. I would suggest an infrared one. Also, the idea that it could be inaccurate is very possible. So, the coolant temperature sensor is a good idea as well.

LP does cause it to run a bit hotter, but it shouldn't cause this. When you pick up a temperature sensor, if you haven't already, replace the radiator cap as well.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe
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Friday, September 30th, 2022 AT 9:22 PM
Tiny
PLUM PLUMP BULLIES
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Thanks Joe. The radiator fixed it.
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2022 AT 10:15 PM

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