1995 Buick Roadmaster Idle Air Control screws

Tiny
JBUCO315
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 BUICK ROADMASTER
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 58,000 MILES
Hello all, was having a small starting issue where I was advised to replace the Idle Air Control Valve. That fixed everything. Well about three weeks later, I started having electric "gremlins", and severe idle issues. I decided to check the condition or the IAC valve as a guess and found it had come completely apart, even stripped the little plastic threads that hold the pintle / plunger in the unit! So I replaced it. All was good for about 1/2 a day, it started dying at idle again, and a couple gremlins were popping up. I eventually found that the Auxiliary Positive Battery post nut was loose. I disconnected battery, took it all apart, cleaned everything and all was almost good. At warm idle with a/c and lights on, car would now idle way down and politely shut off. I referenced it the someone being choked out. It would not rev up/serge or anything to try and stay running. Pulled the IAC again and exchanged it. Unfortunately while putting this one in, the head of one of the two screws broke off! I had put some thread lock in the screw hole and then hand tightened the screw until I felt some resistance, then I put a wrench to it, it still had about a 32nd to go before it even touched the casing of the IAC. Could the Thread Lock have created a form of hydraulic back pressure or something which made it tighten like that? It was not even a full minute from the time I put the gel in there to the time I was tightening it down. The other one it tight and holding. My question is; should everything be okay with just the one holding it, or do I need to really get into removing TB and trying to get that out of there and then a new screw, etc, etc, etc. FYI, I did test it at cold and warm idle and all now seems to be good, except for the screw thing.
Saturday, December 12th, 2015 AT 9:45 PM

2 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Using thread lock secures the screws from loosening up. It depends on the color as to the severity of the tightening.

Yes, you need to remove the throttle body and remove the broken portion. Is is critical for the IAC to be flush and tight.

Roy
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Sunday, December 13th, 2015 AT 6:40 AM
Tiny
JBUCO315
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
Ugghh, Thank you, will do.
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Sunday, December 13th, 2015 AT 5:15 PM

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