No crank no start after stalling?

JONAHT17

MEMBER
1995 BUICK CENTURY
3.8L
6 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
150,000 MILES

My car listed above started then stalled two blocks from my house on a day with 20 degree weather. It stalled before when my gas was low but always started right back up, and I have a full tank. No clicks, lights turn on, oil light is illuminated.
Called AAA for a jump then a tow, both guys said starter motor, mechanic I called for a diagnosis said starter. Replaced starter motor and I am still in a no crank no start situation.

Curious if maybe I wired it back up wrong? I know the solenoid is on the right post, then I have a wire with two like O's coming out and a wire with a O and a tab. On the original starter I believe the two thicker were on the same post, but the new starter has an additional thick post.

was it not my starter to begin with? No other suggestions have been put out there as to why my car won't crank or start.

attached a diagram I drew of what I mean for the wires to the starter.

Image (Click to make bigger)

5 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,747 POSTS

Hi,

The heavier gauge wire should be black in color directly from the battery positive. That runs to the heavier post (the B post). There should be a purple wire (smaller in diameter) that goes to the S post. The third wire is a power supply to the alternator through a fusible link that should be connected with the black wire at the starter which is direct from the battery (heavier wire).

I attached both the starter circuit wiring and the charging system schematic and highlighted the related wiring.

If you have it connected this way, let me know and we can further troubleshoot.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

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Friday, January 26th, 2024 AT 8:00 PM

JONAHT17

MEMBER
3 POSTS

It does seem that I do have it wired correctly, and I've checked that all bolts are tight.

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Friday, January 26th, 2024 AT 9:09 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,747 POSTS

Hi,

Based on the schematic, there is no relay. However, power needs to make it through the neutral safety switch. If you haven't, see if it starts in neutral.

If there is no change, at the starter, locate the smaller gauge purple wire. That wire should not have power until the key is in the start position. Have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check if power is present. If it is, you got a bad starter. If it isn't, let me know and we can work backward to see where the power is lost. Use the schematic above to help if you have questions or just let me know. Also, let me know if there are any sounds when you try starting it. For example, do you hear a click or anything? Also, are the battery terminals both clean and tight?

One last thought. Check to make sure the battery grounds are good. From the battery, there are two locations. One is on the transmission stud and the other goes to the radiator support. Follow the ground from the battery to these locations and make sure they are clean, tight, and in good condition. See pic below.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

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Saturday, January 27th, 2024 AT 7:01 PM

JONAHT17

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Hi,

Now I put a new battery in, I am hearing a loud click, and some whirring from the engine, but the starter doesn't seem to be engaging. It's just kind of an electric noise, the engine is still not cranking at all.

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Sunday, January 28th, 2024 AT 10:26 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,747 POSTS

Hi,

That sounds like the Bendix is faulty. The Bendix is what pushes a gear out from the starter to engage with the flex plate and crank the engine. Take a look through this link, you may find it helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Do me a favor. Record it so I can hear what it is doing. I should be able to recognize it.

Let me know.

Joe