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1994 Subaru Justy Cylinder head Bolt torques

Tiny
MRRUBBURN
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 SUBARU JUSTY
  • 1.0L
  • 3 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 300,000 MILES
Can anyone tell me what is the cylinder head bolt torques of my car? It is a 6 valve Subaru J10, not impreza not saturn not legacy, just a justy subaru J10 with a 1.0 liter engine not 1.2 liter! It is carburated.
I cant find information anywhere! Its like the 1.0 liter version doesnt exist! Please help, Subaru doesnt even sell their service manual either! I would like to know what regular mechanics do. What are the correct torque tightening specs for this cylinder head? Please help
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2015 AT 8:09 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
We have for the 1.2L which would be the same see pics for specs and sequence. Also after torqueing second step bolts must be backed off 90 degrees before doing thirds step.
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2015 AT 9:43 AM
Tiny
MRRUBBURN
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
How sure are you that the 1.2 liter has the same specs as the 1.0 liter?
Do you have any evidence?
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2015 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Do I have any evidence-nope, but been doing this for 50 yrs and if yours is a3 cyl it's more than likely the same. Besides in the U.S. We dont' list a 1.0L If you can't find anything for 1.0L then go with I gave you the difference between 1.2 and 1.0 is minimal and is more than likely bore size. If you don't want to use it don't and keep looking for what you can't find.
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Wednesday, November 18th, 2015 AT 12:20 PM
Tiny
MRRUBBURN
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Ok I can see that you know what you are talking about, I`m sorry if I sound bitter in my questions, but this is the only car I can have in my life right now, so I have to be extra careful with it, Wish me luck, by the way, the reason for all this is for changing the cylinder head gasket because I have a water leak from it.

Thanks for your answer
Cheers
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Thursday, November 19th, 2015 AT 1:51 PM
Tiny
MRCLAI
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
HMAC I have a question.

I dont think my engine is reaching operating temperature.
Im not getting much heat inside the cabin
Heater core is clean, new thermostat, and the system is very well pressurized.
Why is the engine not reaching operating temperature?
The thermostat is aftermarket, could that be the case?
Are there any other options I could take?
I had an idea of making a manual valve between the thermostat and the radiator to restrict flow.
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Saturday, December 19th, 2015 AT 4:09 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
You don't want to restrict flow that is already done. Check to see if your temp cable is broken or even working it may not be see pic
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Saturday, December 19th, 2015 AT 6:48 AM
Tiny
MRCLAI
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I checked it, its working properly, I get heat if I stay idle behind traffic for a long time.
I think the aftermarket thermostat just opens too early.
It opens at 82 degrees for goodness sakes!
82 degrees is not hot enough for a block that small I think.
When it heats up in traffic, then I get up to speed again, the temperature slams back to cold from 1/4 in under 30 secs (seriously).
The guy I bought the thermostat from said that my car comes with either 82 or 85 degrees thermostats, so if thats true I need to invent something to heat the engine up properly.
What do you think.
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Thursday, December 24th, 2015 AT 3:47 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
The one that is supposed to be in there opens at 84-87 C and fully open at 91C that water is plenty warm enough to heat. Even if the oone you have is 82C that should still be enough. Check coolant level as that is the number one cause of low heat. If low fill it and keep an eye on it you may have ahead gasket bad. Also see if there are any air bleeds on the cooling system like a screw maybe on top of tstat housing. Check your radiator cap as that may be weak causing the same thing. Next time post this separately as well.
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Thursday, December 24th, 2015 AT 5:36 AM

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