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1994 Dodge Dakota Cranks but wont start. Intermittent code 27.

Tiny
CREETAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 168,856 MILES
Ok parked the truck one day and hasnt ran since. Wasn't getting spark so replaced distributor, dis cap and rotor, plug wires and even PCM with used unit. Then it wasnt getting fuel so replaced fuel pump. Now it gets weird. I am getting codes 25-41-27 and as of lately code 13. I know what all the codes mean. I have checked for pulse at injectors. Every injector always does the same thing. Some times they pulse when key is cycled on some times they dont. When I put noid light into #1 cylinder truck tries to run but stumbles and dies. When I put noid light on any other injector it never lights up. But like I said I have used a stethascope on each injector and confirmed they do pulse at times. They rarely pulse when engine is cranking over. Now today I checked spark again and have lost spark to cylinders 1&5. The ignition relay under dash gets very hot touch after cranking. Please help me!
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Monday, August 8th, 2011 AT 2:35 AM

20 Replies

Tiny
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Is there 12+V to orange green wires to injectors and coil key on?
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Monday, August 8th, 2011 AT 1:21 PM
Tiny
CREETAN
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Ok I checked the voltage at the coil and injectors. Coil read 33v and injectors read 36v. Map sensor was 5v and TPS was 5v if that matters at all. Just by having the key in on position the ignition relay got very hot within a couple mins of key being on. Also I noticed a valve device on intake manifold that vac lines connect to. This also got very hot with just the key in on position. Giving best info I can as I am doing this for my disabled senior neighbor.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 2:38 AM
Tiny
CREETAN
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There is 36v to injectors 33v to coil. I also checked map and tps which both had 5v. Just having key on to test voltage made ignition relay get very hot.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 5:27 PM
Tiny
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Sure voltmeter is accurate cause 33-36V from 12.6V battery not possible
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 5:36 PM
Tiny
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Thats what I thought as well. Multimeter was new never used just bought it. I tested battery and it read 12.6v. I am not sure why it read what it did on injectors and coil but it did so multiple times. So what would cause it to read accurate on battery but not coil and injector?
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
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One BATT in truck? Is there an inverter for 110V? What do injectors and coli read if unpluged?
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 6:04 PM
Tiny
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What ignition relay? Location? Suer not ASD relay
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 6:14 PM
Tiny
CREETAN
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Ok the relay is a silver cylinder shape with 3 prongs. Auto parts called it ignition relay. Only 1 BATT. No inverter. I am doing all this for my disable senior neighbor so havent had chance to go back down to check voltage again. Will do so shortly.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
CREETAN
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Forgot to mention the relay is located under dash on driver side.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 7:04 PM
Tiny
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See diagram which one gets hot
Image (Click to make bigger)
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
CREETAN
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  • 13 POSTS
Time Delay relay
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 7:57 PM
Tiny
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Let me do some research will get back tomorrow. Will get to problem a good thing your doing and I won't bail on you. Going to pick the brains of some fellow Tech.
Time delay relay only operates interior lights as to keep on after key off
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
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Ok thanks alot.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2011 AT 8:16 PM
Tiny
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Welcome
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 8:41 PM
Tiny
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Ok Updated info.

There is little to no power going to injectors and coil. Its reading between 30-60 mV.
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Friday, August 12th, 2011 AT 6:42 AM
Tiny
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Check underhood power Dist. Find relay ASD when key is turned on does relay click? If no replace
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Friday, August 12th, 2011 AT 4:24 PM
Tiny
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Checked ASD relay. It clicks on then off when key is turned to on position. Then when trying to start it does same thing. Clicks on then off. Replaced to make sure was working and new 1 does same thing. I check voltage of green/orange wire coming from PCM and it reads same 30-40 mV. I checked voltage going into PCM and its reading 12.6 V. Would it be safe to assume PCM is the issue? Thanks
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Saturday, August 13th, 2011 AT 12:41 PM
Tiny
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Try this unplug an injector one at a time see if voltage come to 12+ with one unpluged
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Saturday, August 13th, 2011 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
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Unplugged 1 by 1 and voltage stayed the same. 30-40 mV.
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Saturday, August 13th, 2011 AT 11:04 PM
Tiny
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Voltage at coil? Also on dark Blue wire at ALT? If same as injectors have wiring problem.
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Monday, August 15th, 2011 AT 3:15 PM

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