Power inside, Relays clicking but no power to ignition system

It is very likely that this wiring problem is the cause of your problems. It is also likely that there are other problems in the wiring since this one is there.
I would check all of the wiring in this area to make sure it looks good. Another common problem area is under the fuse/relay center in the engine compartment.

I checked the starter and there is no power going to it at all which leads me to believe that it has be to be a ground or neutral saftey switch. Possibly a ASD relay or crank sensor. If there is no power going to the postive side of the soleniod then something has to be stopping it becuse that is a pretty staight shot from the battery to starter. And like I said I know iginition switch is good and relays are clicking. I also went through a visual inspection of the rest of teh wiring harnesses and everything else looks good, not to say there couldnt be something I am not seeing.

What do you mean by "the relays are clicking"?

When I turn the turn the ignition switch to the on position I can hear the relay click in both the ignition coil relay and starter rely. But no power.

I have also swapped out the relays (in the fuse box) just to be sure that they are good and they all work. I also checked all fuses inside and under the hood to make sure I wasnt wasting time or money. Everything looks good...no blown fuses. And if it was a ground problem or battery connection problem I shouldnt have power to anything, which everything inside of the car works fine (dash panel, a/c) and outside too (lights, convertible top, windows,etc.) Its just the ignition/start system, that seems to be diabled. And there is not an anti theft system on this vehicle. And by the way thanks for replying and so fast. That's awesome and very much appreciated. :)

Do you have a voltmeter available for testing?

Yes. I have a multimeter and a test light. Also I read that if the neutral saftey swith was bad that the reverse lights shouldnt come on. Not sure if that is correct but figured I'd try it and I have reverse lights.

OK. What is the voltage reading at the relays? There should be 4 or 5 pins that the relays plug into. Read the voltage on the starter relay after you unplug it and let me know what it is.

Ran a small wire off of each pin on the relay and taped them to them on each side "as seen on u-tube" (see below), placed relay back into fuse panel and tested it. Getting 12v while key is in off position of I put my mulitimeter on it. When key is turned to on position it's reading just under 12V. Not sure if that is normal and I do have continuity in the realy.Hot wire is good on test light. Also tested battery and that is good

I need you to completely remove the relay, (don't hook any wires to it) then check the voltage on each pin that the relay would plug into. Then let me know what the voltage is.

With key in off position #30 get 12.08, 85 gets 0, 86 gets 0, 87 gets 0. with key in on position #30 11.90 and 86 gets .36, the other to gets 0.

OK, so the first problem is that your battery is completely drained (yes even thought the lights stay on the battery can still be dead). The only other thing that might be going on is if there is a wiring problem between the battery and the relay center.
What is the voltage reading on the battery?

12.8 but I already swapped the battery with a fully charged one from another vehicle to see if that was the problem and it still didnt crank. And I've put this battery into my chrysler voyager which is also V6 and my van turned over no problem.

If your battery is showing 12.8 volts (This is fully charged) but the hot wire to your relay is only showing 12 volts, then there is a problem with the wiring between the battery and relay box.
A battery at 12.8v is fully charged, a battery at 12v is fully discharged.
I would clean and tighten the battery terminals then start following the wiring from the battery to see where the problem is.

Sorry about that I meant 12.08. Which is what is reading at the fuse panel. So what connects the coil (since we have no power there either even though that relay is also working and the starter). Becuase whatever that is has to be where the problem lies. I know I was getting spark in teh coil, distributor, plugs and starter. Then nothing.....that fast. Do you not think that this is the neutral saftey?

12.08 is not enough voltage. You can keep looking other places, but this is a problem. If this is your "fully charged battery" then you need to either get a new one or charge it again until it shows at least 12.65 volts.
This may not be the only problem that this system has but you need to fix it before you continue.

No i have another one in my van that has 12.8 and I can put this battery into my van and charge it. It is drained from testing everything yesterday and the day before and being turned on and off with no charge.

OK put that one in, then see what the reading is at the relay.

With key off #30-12.88 key on 12.68. #85 key off 0 key on .27, the others 0 key on or off.

And earlier I stated that #86 had .36v when the battery was dead t that would of actually been #85 not 86 this is because I was looking at the fuse opposite of what it would of been had it been plugged into panel and I just want to clafiy so we have no mistakes that lead us down a dead end path.

Just got under car and tested starter solenoid, I had not actually done this because I just assumed that it wasnt getting any power if it wasnt kicking in and just worked and with losing power to coil I assumed the solenoid had too. I know you should never assume anything and i just wasted time when the answer was already partially solved. So I apologize for that. But we are actually getting 12.8v with key off but no kick when key is on. Tested harness that connects to coil and no hot wire showing on test light. I know unless I piggy back the solenoid or drop it and have it bench tested I wont know for sure if the starter is shot but why would the coil have no power going to it and it happend at the same time? Would this still point to the neutral safety switch or ASD realy? And on that Schematic I dont see that harness with acid rot leading would to the coil in anyway? What could cause this? Also I hear one of the relays clicking on the PCM but not the other but if I put my hand on the top of them I can feel them click in there when the key is engaged? What do you make of this because I am stupmed even more now.

OK. This tells me that the wiring is ok from the battery to the relays.
I need to look up a wiring diagram so I need some more info about your car.
Are you sure you are working with the starter relay?
Where is this relay located?
Is your car an LE, GTC or Landau?

Getting 12.8v to the solenoid means that the wiring from the battery to the starter is good.
We need to check the wiring from the relay to the starter solenoid next. I need to you answer the questions I asked in my previous post so I can look at the correct wiring diagram to help you figure this out.

It is a GTC and the relay is under the hood by the wheel well. There are seven relay spots. It would be #7 if you counted one from the pass. to seven on the driver's side. And ya this should be the starter relay or at least it is listed as the starter relay on the lid of the fuse panel and #6 would be the ignition coil.

And is this a manual tranny or automatic?

Auto

And the alternator has power....showing 12.8 as well. And test light show power feed.

There should be a brown wire that goes from the relay center to the starter solenoid. This wire should have battery voltage when you are trying to start the car. You will probably need someone to help you by trying to turn it over while you check at the starter solenoid to see what the voltage is. Let me know and we'll go from there.

It is showing 12.15V but it very a very quick reading. Battery is still showing 12.8V.

Hmmm. You should re-check it just to be sure you got an accurate reading. It is very important that we know exactly what the voltage is at this point.
I have to be gone for a few hrs. I'll help more when I get back.

I did recheck it it showed 12.2 then it drops to about 3. This is a cheap multimeter but it seems to be doing a pretty good job. Starter and solenoid need to be cleaned there is dirt and oil and on it so I haveing a hard time trying to get a good reading in teh first place. But I'll clean it off with a rag and try a two out of three reading.

Ok, disconnected stater feeds and cleaned them up becuase sometimes I could get a reading and other times it was just showing 0v. So I figured it was because the starter was very dirty and I couldnt get a good connection. So i cleaned the brown wire terminal to get the 12.2 reading so I chalked the odd 0v reading to the dirty starter feeds. But when I disconnected the wires, cleaned all the terminals and attempted to get a reading again, not only did I get a 12+v reading but I heard the starter attempt to turn then I lost the reading very quickly it only last a second then disppeared and nothing. So i tried again 0v three different attempts, then a 12+v reading again but no starter engament. Does this mean starter is faulty or wire has a bad connection? I can always drop the starter and take it to a parts store or piggy back it and see if it kicks but the kick I heard was very healthy not to say that bad starters before they go out dont give healhy kicks occasionally. However I dont think we are getting power to coil still but its not like I was testing it when the starter attempted to kick. Does this wire also connect to the coil in anyway or do I have two simultaneous issues occuring at the same time?

Ok well last peice of the puzzle or at least I hope. Dropped the starter and took it to a parts shop. They tested it and its faulty. He attempted to get it to kick and nothing, grabbed a hammer hit once and bendex engaged partially. I then asked why the coil wouldnt be getting spark then if it was the starter and he said that the crank positioning sensor only engages the coil after the flywheel has begun to spin which engages the sensor to engage the coil. If this is so, becuase I know where a crank sensor is and what it controls but not how it controls it,then this should be the last peice of the puzzle. I would have taken the starter in already but the last time I did they told me my starter was bad and it wasnt it was the ignition switch but due to already having bought and installed the starter I was out $100. And I did in fact watch another guy hook it up and attempt to start it. So maybe he got the code wrong or didint hook it up either way I should of done trouble shooting and didnt so I did this time and all in all it was worth it. I learned alot today and it was great working with you on this. However if you think this is the last peice of the puzzle please let me know. If not please let me know that too. The owner of the car is picking up the starter tomorrow and going to shop around for the best price so I wont know for sure for a day or two until I actually install the new starter. But once I do and know for sure that I wont need any further assisance from you then I will let you know and I will make a donation. This was a big help and I very much appreciate everything you have done for me.

Thanks, STKDTK

This makes sense to me. I think this will probably fix it. At least I hope!
I know I took you through a lot of hoops, but that is the only way to get an accurate diagnosis of the problem. You always have to start with the basics and go from there.
Let me know if you need more help.