1994 Lesabre dies while slowing to turn or when moving slow.

OREGONJOHN

MEMBER
1994 BUICK LESABRE
175,000 MILES

1994 Buick LeSabre dies when slowing to turn and usually on the second half of the turn. Code for O2 sensor. It only did this every now and then. Now it's about once per week. I just put it in neutral and it starts right up and I keep going. It also seems to surge or get jumpy when I level out at any speed. If I accelerate it's fine. The Service Engine Soon light comes on a lot. If I pull in somewhere and turn it off the light usually goes out when I start it again. This happens no matter if it's hot or cold. Mechanic says it shows code for Oxygen Sensor but that it could be a lot of things. He wasn't able to get it to stall while he had it. In the last year I have changed the plugs, wires, fuel filter, and run Seafoam in the lines.

4 Replies

RASMATAZ

MECHANIC
75,992 POSTS

Check engine light on
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

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Monday, August 22nd, 2011 AT 5:48 AM

DRCRANKNWRENCH

MECHANIC
3,380 POSTS

Depending on the motor in the car it may have timing chain and or belt issues. The V6 3.8L has a chain that is still well past it's service life. If it is a 4 cylinder, it certainly needs to be replaced.
I answered the question about your truck, so I got a little lost between the 2.
I am assuming you just meant the car, however, same rules apply to both.
Is the gas mileage bad? Or has it changed since the O2 sensor started throwing a code?
Did you say you tried Sea Foam on the car?
Some other thoughts are an injector that is failing slowly but surely.
Same thoughts as reply to truck/car question.
There is an emissions item called an EGR valve that gets really dirty and can stay stuck in a position and repair requires taking it apart and cleaning the intake by hand as well as probably replacing it.
As far as the IACV, it will be up on the list to. If it is not throwing a code, it may just be dirty.
If you think the problem is the same even after the engine has reached operating temperature, then the FIT valve can be ruled out which is an electronic choke more or less.

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Monday, August 22nd, 2011 AT 5:58 AM

OREGONJOHN

MEMBER
11 POSTS

1. Yes, it's a V 3.8L
2. Gas mileage is around 22-24 mpg and doesnt do any better on the highway.
3. Yes, my mechanic showed me shich hose to suck up the SeaFoam with to clean it out and I have put some in the gas tank.
4. The only code is for the O2 Sensor.
5. It even does it at operating temperature.

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Monday, August 22nd, 2011 AT 6:09 AM

DRCRANKNWRENCH

MECHANIC
3,380 POSTS

Sea-Foam does a good job. Makes a ton of smoke before it clears out.
Injectors are usually easy to see if they are working on older cars as they make a, "clicking " noise. So, the solenoid is popping open if you hear it.
I use BG44K instead of Sea-Foam, both good stuff. Eventually run a can or 2 of either through the gas tank as your mechanic probably used the power brake line.
Before you get overwhelmed with tracking this down, I would take Rasmatazes' advice to see if you pull anything else other than the O2 sensor.
Talk to your mechanic about the type of fuel filter you have as well. Your pump is in the tank and has a sock type pre-filter.
With the mileage you have. It could be an issue.
Don't start spending money on my suggestions just yet though. Just throwing ideas out there to help you get started on your diagnosis flow chart. Proccess of elimination is the best way to diagnose multi-sympomatic issues without spending uneccassary money.
Let me know how it goes.

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Monday, August 22nd, 2011 AT 7:52 AM