I have a f350 with 351w standard trans I had.

CARB.W/ 40 PSI?

MY CARBS REQUIRE LESS THAN 5 PSI

DEISELING IS DUE TO EXCESSIVE IDLE SPEED.I'M GUESS 800-1000 RPM WOULD BE THE LIMIT, PROBABLY CLOSER TO 700 WOULD SUIT ME

TIMING SHOULD BE SET WITH THE IDLE LOW (AS NOT TO HAVE THE MECHANICAL ADVANCE WEIGHTS SLINGING OUT AND ADVANCING IT)

WITH YOUR IDLE SPEED WAY UP YONDER, YOU ARE RUNNING OFF OF YOUR MAINS---NOT THE IDLE CIRCUITTRYING TO TUNE THE IDLE MIXTURE IS POINTLESS, AS YOU ARE NOT "IN" THE IDLE CIRCUIT AT ALL

I'M STILL USING THE OLE MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP ON BOTH OF MY JEEPS----YOU CAN GET A LOW PRESSURE ELECTRIC PUMP, BUT YOU MUST INSURE WITH A REGULATOR AND/ OR A RETURN LINE BACK TO THE TANK. OTHER WISE YOU WILL OVER POWER THE FLOAT/ NEEDLE AND SEAT

I'LL SEND YOU PICS OF HOW MY '77 JEEP CJ 5 SYSTEM WORKS

KEEP US POSTED

THE MEDIC

WHAT ABOUT INSTALLING A LOW FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE IN BETWEEN THE CARB AND THE REGULATOR ====JUST TO VERIFY THE PRESSURE?.......LIKE MINE

YOU ARE TIMING WITH THE VACUUM ADVANCE HOSE LOOSE AND PLUGGED OFF?

YOU CAN VERIFY YOUR ADVANCES LIKE THIS:

VACUUM ADVANCE LINE OFF AND PLUGGED----INCREASE THROTTLE WHILE WATCHING THE TIMING MARKS WITH YOUR TIMING LIGHT..........TIMING SHOULD ADVANCE (LARGER NUMBERS).........THIS WILL VERIFY "MECHANICAL ADVANCE"

THEN HOOK YOUR VACUUM ADVANCE LINE BACK UP TO THE DISTRIBUTORTHEN HOOK THE OTHER END OF IT UP TO "MANIFOLD VACUUM" (CONTINUOUS VACUUM)............WATCH YOUR MARKS AGAIN, WHILE UNHOOKING AND HOOKING THE LINE A FEW TIMES........AGAIN IT SHOULD ADVANCE!

I HAVE FOUND THAT WITH MY JEEP, AFTER TIMING IT CORRECTLY, HE'LL PERFORM MUCH BETTER USING "MANIFOLD VACUUM" FOR MY VACUUM ADVANCE (PERMANENTLY) INSTEAD OF "PORTED VACUUM".........THAT'S NOT JUST ME, BUT I'VE SUGGESTED THIS TO OTHER CJ OWNER'S.......THEY AGREE IT PERFORMS BETTER!

WHEN TIMING IS DONE, IDLE IS HIGH (FROM THE ADVANCE) BRING DOWN THE IDLE SPEED TO SPECS THEN TUNE THE MIX SCREWS....THEN GET THE IDLE SPEED RIGHT AGAIN.

I PREFER USING MY DWELL/ TACH METER TO TWEAK MY SCREWS. WATCHING THE TIP OF THE NEEDLE (MOST SENSITIVE) FOR "IMPROVEMENTS" OR "DROPPING OFF"...........KEEPING BOTH SCREWS "EVEN" AS YOU GO...............I, MYSELF, JUST DON'T SEE THE GAUGE MOVEMENTS ON A VACUUM GAUGE, AS WELL AS I SEE THE DWELL/ TACHs MOVEMENTS

MY DAD DIED IN DEC '10---I INHERITED HIS TRUCK---'76 FORD F-150 W/ 351 WINDSOR, IT HAS ABOUT 4 OIL CHANGES ON THE REBUILD WE DID, I STILL HAVEN'T BEEN BACK OVER TO MAMA'S HOUSE TO GET HIM YET, FROM TIME TO TIME, I DRIVE IT AROUND THE YARD

ARE YOU SURE THERE ARE NO VACUUM LEAKS?

AS FAR AS TUNING THE CARB ITSELF---MY HOLLEY WAS TOO LEAN, RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX

I'VE TRIED BUNCHES OF WAYS TO "JET" MINEYOU NEED YOUR RUNNING BETTER BEFORE YOU EVEN THINK ABOUT JETTING!!!!!!!

THIS IS WHERE I FOUND THE VERY BEST METHOD (FOR ME, ANYWAY)HENCE THE "O2 SENSOR" AND AIR/ FUEL RATIO GAUGE........AND INCLUDING THE VACUUM GAUGE I ALREADY HAD ON MY DASH.......ALL SORTA USED TOGETHERSEE THIS LINK

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC