Chasing down code 32 cannot figure it out?

Tiny
SEAN0308
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 65,000 MILES
I have been chasing down code 32, and I can’t figure it out. I replaced the throttle body that the shop had recommended. They changed that and I will say I seen a difference but still got code 32. Also, they recommended a MAP sensor which I changed. I changed the EGR valve put the same valve on from GM had it matched. I also seen the IAC connector was broken I guess when they pulled it off the old one the clips broke but didn’t tell me. I bought a new connector. Any chance this could be causing this issue. I am installing it tomorrow. I installed a new EGR purge solenoid. I erased the codes and still get code 32 when I drive. When I first start it up the RPMs go to about 1,200. I let it warm up and it dropped to 1,000. I shift it into drive it runs 750 to 800 RPMs. It runs fine. If I drive it and it gets hot and I park it and restart it. The RPMs goes up to 1,200 for a few seconds then tries to stall. Sometimes it does. Any suggestions? The only thing I can figure out is to clean the EGR port. I have the brushes anything I should use like carb cleaner while using the brush? Or maybe the cat is clogged. I will say I am pretty sure the cat is a problem but not sure if that has anything to do with code 32. I do have a new cat might throw it on this weekend see what happens. The only other thing it could be is the ECM might possibly be the cause. Maybe it is bad. No vacuum leaks I changed and checked all the hoses. A few were cracked but I changed them out. Thanks for any help.
Monday, April 22nd, 2024 AT 7:03 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,603 POSTS
I would replace the EGR control solenoid and fix the IAC wiring can connector as well, then disconnect the battery to help clear the codes. Also here are the vacuum line diagrams so you can make sure they are routed correctly.

32 - EGR circuit fault

Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos in your response to the problem so we can see what's going on.
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Tuesday, April 23rd, 2024 AT 10:36 AM
Tiny
SEAN0308
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I replaced the EGR solenoid already. Didn’t make a difference. I will replace the IAC connector tomorrow. I didn’t get a chance to replace it today. I will also make a video of the startup. I took the EGR valve off today and cleaned the ports. A lot of carbon buildup in both ports.
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Wednesday, April 24th, 2024 AT 12:19 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Sounds good, the EGR ports being clogged can cause the code, also make sure the vacuum lines are connected correctly.
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Wednesday, April 24th, 2024 AT 9:38 AM
Tiny
SEAN0308
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I took it for a drive today. No code after I got hit went into the store came out and this is what it does. It rained today. I couldn’t replace the IAC connector. I will do it when I get a chance. Here is the video. Once it warms up after a minute of rpm’s jumping it runs fine. But if you accelerate it only goes up to 3,000 RPMs with pedal pushed down after being hot. First starting truck in the morning, it takes off no problems. Kind of wonder if this is an ICM problem on the distributor. I get no codes after scanning. I saw on YouTube I don’t know if this works or not that you can unplug the spark advance and see if it runs better. If it does then the ICM is the problem. I don’t put a lot of faith in that though.
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Wednesday, April 24th, 2024 AT 10:39 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Thanks for the video. That is definitely IAC related so please repair the wiring. Also, you may have a clogged catalytic converter causing the code, here is a guide to help you check to help confirm:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please go over this guide and get back to us.
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Thursday, April 25th, 2024 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
SEAN0308
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Okay, replaced connector. I'm going to test cat tomorrow to see if it is clogged. Didn’t make a difference with new IAC connector.
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Thursday, April 25th, 2024 AT 11:31 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Okay, let me know about the cat.
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Friday, April 26th, 2024 AT 10:12 AM
Tiny
SEAN0308
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I went ahead and just cut the cat out. When I was cutting I have never smelled one that smelled like I burnt fuel. After I cut it out I shook it. Come to find out the honey comb must have broke. It sounds like beads inside and some white pieces came out. I had to order an intermediate pipe. That won’t be in until Tuesday. I’ll update Wednesday on what happens. I put vacuum tester on throttle body after Revving engine the gauge would go down almost like a restriction. So, I figured might as well cut it see what happens. Hope this fixes the problem.
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Sunday, April 28th, 2024 AT 7:18 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, it sounds like you found the problem, please let me know after the job is complete.
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Monday, April 29th, 2024 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
SEAN0308
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Okay, so, I put it all back together replaced from cat back to tail pipe. Still same problem. When it first starts out, no problem. After it gets hot it stalls and runs like before. Any chance it could be the ICM or fuel filter. I had a new throttle body put on 3 months ago and fuel pressure was good according to mechanic. It was doing this before the new throttle body was installed. It doesn’t run rich anymore. After that was installed. I pulled the plugs looked normal. They were changed 10,000 miles ago along with wires and distributor cap and rotor.
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Monday, May 6th, 2024 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Do you still get the code 31?
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Monday, May 6th, 2024 AT 8:06 PM
Tiny
SEAN0308
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No codes at all RPM just keeps bouncing up and down like in video I sent. Code 32 was the one I got. Not unless ecm is bad at this point. It is the original computer.
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Tuesday, May 7th, 2024 AT 11:04 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Did you fix the wiring to the IAC also did you install a new IAC motor? It acts like it could be a vacuum leak, please use this guide and spray around the base of the throttle body.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please go over this guide and get back to us.
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Wednesday, May 8th, 2024 AT 12:12 PM

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