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Clutch

Tiny
ROB.BOB.DAVE
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 220 MILES
I have a 1992 Nissan Maxima with manual trans. I replaced both the master and slave cylinders for the clutch. The clutch does not need replacing. The clutch system seems to be operating correctly when the car is first used, but if a long trip with much shifting occurs, the clutch begins to slip after an hour or two. If left overnight, it operates without slipping. It seems the slave or master are not completely releasing the clutch completely but it requires many uses to cause the problem to occur.
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Tuesday, March 22nd, 2011 AT 11:14 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
If the clutch is slipping, then it is bad and needs replacing. There are no other options.
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Tuesday, March 22nd, 2011 AT 11:55 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Have the clutch pedal to master cylinder push adjustment checked. There must be some clearance/free play between them failing which fluid would not be able to return to the master cylinder. Under such conditions, prolonged driving would heat up the clutch fluids causing the clutch to self apply as pressure in system builds up.
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Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Pressure build up due to non release is a phenomenon that can occur in a brake system but I have never heard of it happening in a clutch. If you have not removed the master cylinder recently, the push rod clearance would not have changed.
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Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011 AT 2:30 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Customer mentioned replacing master and slave cylinder. Same priinciples applies whether it is brake or clutch as working principles are similar. Seen many of such cases.
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Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011 AT 2:44 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Yes, I missed the part about the master being replaced.
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Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011 AT 3:16 PM
Tiny
ROB.BOB.DAVE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks for all the info. I had to re and re the master and shorten the adjuster because it was not allowing the master to fully retract. The clutch seems to be operating correctly. Could life get more interesting. Now the car stalls when the clutch is depressed (much like me now) if I just push it into neutral it idles properly but when I push in (disengage) the clutch, the car stalls. Just another day.
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Thursday, March 31st, 2011 AT 10:16 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Check for any inteferences to wireharness, sensors etc that might have dropped into the path of the slave cylinder and/or shift fork travel path.

What is the idling speed?
Does stalling occurs even if the idling speed is raised slightly?
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Friday, April 1st, 2011 AT 8:34 PM

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