What else can I check to get this car running again

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Did you check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail?
Did you confirm the fuel pump is working when ignition is turned on or while cranking?

Check to see if it is the power supply side or the pulsing ground side that you lost.
What is the fuel pressure.

Does your check engine light come on for bulb check when the key is turned on?
Are you positive that you have spark?

Your symptoms are pointing to either a bad Engine Control module or Ignition control module. It will require some "in depth" testing to confirm either.

Remove the ECU and open the covers to check for signs of corrosion, leaking capacitors etc. If the ECM is the component is at fault, replacing it should solve the problem. Yes, a junk yard component should be good enough as it does not matter if the component is new or used as such components are rather reliable.

If the timingbelt is off, you would need to turn the crank to TDC on compression stroke for cylinder #1 and release the tension of the tensioner with the aid of a long bolt to push and hold the bracket. The tensioner pin should be held in position with a pin and then the tensioner bearing is released.

You might have a blown fuse somewhere.

Ensure terminal # 16 of the DLC has battery voltage.