Ford Bronco

Where do yo have fuel?---Shoot a squirt down the throttle body--Any positive sounding different results while cranking?--The Medic

OOOPS-missed the distibutor part--Are we sure the distributor is in correctly?--I may can walk you thru the procedure.I do not know your rig well, but if you can sorta translate my Jeep pics to correspond with your Bronco. You may be in business. Let me know if you want to try--The Medic

I am ASSUMING you marked the position of the "Pointer Part" of the ROTOR BUTTON onto the Distributor Body? You removed the dist. It rotated the button as it was lifted. When you re-installed it rotated in and WOUND UP ON YOUR MARK. The Body is CLOSE to being where it was clamped down originally (when it was running)? Had the distributor been picked up prior to you MARKING STUFF. Is it possible that the engine was cranked/ or manually moved while the distributor was out? I TOO, HAVE HAD REALLY HELPFUL BUDDIES. PRESENTLY DEALING WITH A "TOO EARLY", 5 YR. OLD GRANDSON, HELPING WITH MY CRUCIAL STUFF ALSO. IF IT TRIES, MAYBE THRU AN ACT OF GOD, IT'S 180 DEGREES OUT. WE CAN TEST TO SEE WHAT YOU ACTUALLY HAVE/ WHERE YOU STAND, IF YOU ARE GAME?--READY ON MY END!--THE MEDIC

Pull #1 plug. Insert thumb or finger in hole."Bump" engine till you get a spit of compression by your thumb. STOP BUMPING AT THAT INSTANT. Rotate engine, in normal running direction, with wrench or socket until YOUR TIMING MARK is at TDC (Zero)----NOW YOU ARE COMING UP ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE (READY FOR SPARK/ EXPLOSION, TO GO DOWN ON POWER STROKE) AT THIS POINT #1 WIRE/PLUG SHOULD SHOOT----WITH A MARKER, MARK #1 WIRE (TOWER POSITION ON CAP) ON THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY. NOW PULL THE CAP OFF. ROTOR SHOULD BE POINTING AT THE NEW MARK---IF NOT, IT SHOULD, MAKE IT HAPPEN BY RE-INSTALLING THE DISTRIBUTOR, ROTOR BUTTON FACING #1 WIRE! (OR MOVE #1 WIRE TO THIS MARK AND START THE SEQUENCE FROM THIS NEW STARTING POINT!MAYBE YOUR FIRING ORDER WAS OFF, CHECK IT NOW! ROTOR FACING #1, SEQUENCE BEGINS HERE! CONFUSED YET?--WANT ME TO SAY IT DIFFERENT?OR AS YOU SAID, YOU HAVE JUMPED TIMING. ONLY FIX FOR THAT IS TO INSTALL NEW GEARS AND A CHAINI SELDOM SEE CHAINS JUMPING, USUALLY BELTS.I HOPE IT'S JUST IN WRONG!---REPLY WITH GOOD NEWS!--THE MEDIC

I MEANT UP ABOVE--MOVE #1 WIRE TO POSITION THAT THE BUTTON IS POINTING TO (IN OTHER WORDS PLAY "MUSICAL WIRES" TILL #1 WIRE IS ABOVE AND CENTERED ON THE ROTOR BUTTONS "POINTER", THE FIRING SEQUENCE STARTS THERE!), NOT MOVE TO THE MARK (duh. MARK WAS ALREADY MARKING #1 WIRES POSITION)--THE MEDIC

DID YOU BREAK OUT THE TIMING LIGHT, DISCONNECT THE "SPOUT" (WIRE YOU SPOKE OF). TIME IT TO ZERO. RECONNECT SPOUT. OR ARE WE STILL "WINGING IT?" WHERE DID THE ROTOR BUTTON POINT TO, WHEN YOU GOT IT ON COMPRESSION STROKE AND THEN TO TDC? WHAT ABOUT "ON POST REC SERVICES GARAGE"?--THE MEDIC

OOOPS, THE "ON POST" THING WAS MEANT FOR OTHER FELLER I'M COMMOING WITH!

IF YOU HAVE JUMPED TIMING (CHAIN) IF IT RAN AT ALL, IT WOULD PROBABLY BE EXCEPTIONALLY AWFUL! I THINK YOU HAVE ANOTHER ISSUE FOR SURE---LETS INVESTIGATE A VACUUM LEAK OR A FUEL PROBLEM (EGR WILL DO THAT TOO, IF IT'S NOT CLOSING). HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY (AND A BLANKET TO THROW 1ST, BEFORE EXTINGUISHER IS USED!) DO THIS AWAY FROM BUILDINGS OR CARS. THIS WILL BE EZ TO SEE IF IT'S VAC. OR FUEL. While it-a-runnin' dribble a little fuel/ Starter Fluid into the throttle body--Does it smooth out any? (This is Fuel Injected? Carb?). If it does smooth out, 1st look for a VACUUM LEAK--REALLY LOOK HARD--(I MAY CAN TELL YOU HOW, IF YA'LL DO NOT KNOW) WE DON'T WANT TO ADJUST OR REPLACE THINGS--IF ALL IT IS IS A VAC LEAK. IF NONE FOUND, We search for Fuel delivery/ injection/ sensor problems---If a carb, Check for restricted fuel delivery or we may start adjusting the mix screwsI'M HERE IF YOU NEED ME-KEEP ME POSTED, BEFORE YOU CHANGE STUFF!--The Medic