left rear brake backing

you'll have to pull the c clips from the axle pull the axle out and it should unbolt then com eoff with the brake assy. you'll have to undo the brake line to the wheel cylinder.there is a clip that holds wheel cylinder off must be removed, disconnect parking brake and remove. revers procedure for install. refill rear axle, bleed brakes.

My 1992 cadillac deville is front wheel drive. Their is no axle in the back or does it. Thanks.

oops yep forgot about that one. so jut omit the axle part. although you will probably have to take wheel bearing out . it should be easy enough to do.

Ok thanks for your help.

My wheel bearing has an abs sensor on it. It looks like it is an allen wrench but they will not come out any suggestions.

it's probably a torx bit for it, it will have to come out try spraying penetrating oil on it and let it sit then see if bolt will undo. Otherwise you may end up buying a new sensor as well.

ok thanks that was what I was checking on. Thanks for your time and help.

IF IT'S A TORX, OR THIS WILL ALSO WORK WITH AN ALLEN SCREW

SEE MY INCREDIBLE ANSWERS AT THIS POST!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2008-saturn-outlook-remove-rr-brake-rotor-outlook-necessary-torx-retainer-same-o

LET US KNOW HOW THINGS TURN OUT

THE MEDIC

GO TO A U PULL IT. SLIDE THE DRUM OFF REMOVE BRAKE HARDWARE.REMOVE THE 4 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE HUB ON.THE ONLY THING HOLDING THE PLATE THEN IS THE BRAKE LINE.REMOVE IT THEN REMOVE THE PLATE.THIS CAN BE DONE WITH REG. METRIC SOCKETS.

One of the hub bolts are stripped the top right side. Any idea how I can get it off.

I AM WRONG U WILL NEED A 60 TORX TO REMOVE

A 60 TORX WHAT U ARE USING

??

I am using a 50 It fits perfectly.

u will need a hammer and chisel if your lucky if not you need a air chisel and torches for some heat sorry

Ok thanks for taking time to help me.

One more question for you is when I took the 4 bolts out I tried to pull on the hub but it would not come out. I put wd40 on it then I tried liquid wench and it still would not come out. I also used mapp gas and it still would not budge. I was going to beat it out but the abs sensor is in back of it. Someone stripped those screws. A dealer had it a few years back because the brakes would not work. I am almost positive it was them. Any suggestions on how to pull the hub off or take the abs sensor off thanks. The abs screws are really small.

chizel only sorry

Perfect video thanks so much. I see you have to beat on the backing plate to get it to loosen it up. One question when I break the screw off on the wheel hub. How do I get the rest of the screw that is screwed in. Do I have to go to the dealer or the junkyard or napa or something like that to get the bolt. Thanks so much. This will be the last question Hopefully.

I REALLY ENJOY DOING ALL OF THIS, DEPENDING ON THE SITUATION AND THE SEVERITY OF THE BROKEN-NESS OF YOUR BOLT......I MIGHT APPROACH THIS IN DIFFERENT WAYS.....IS THERE ANY STICKING UP?.....WILL HEAT HURT ANYTHING?......WILL LEFT HANDED DRILL BITS AND EZ-OUTS WORK?----A COMBINATION OF ANY OF THIS?

BEFORE YOU EMBARK ON DOING ANYTHING, CAN YOU TAKE A FEW PICS, IN FOCUS AND POST 'EM?

DO ME A FAVOR AND SORTA STICK A "GOOD ONE" BACK IN A LITTLE TAKE A PIC

TAKE A PIC OF A GOOD ONE OF 'EM REMOVED ON A WHITE OR LIGHT COLORED PIECE OF PAPER

TAKE A PIC OF THE BROKE ONE RIGHT BESIDE THE GOOD ONE---STICK A PENNY AND A REGULAR OLE PENCIL IN THE PIC BESIDE THEM FOR A SIZE CAPARISON

TAKE A PIC OR TWO FROM DIFFERENT ANGLES AND POINT AT IT WITH A PENCIL (DON'T COVER IT UP)

LET'S JUST LOOK THESE OVER---TAKE NO ACTION TILL WE SEE YOUR PICS


WAITIN' ON SOME GOOD--IN FOCUS--EZ TO FIGURE OUT PICS!

THE MEDIC

Hey I came up with an idea and I want to know if it will work. I am still going to take the pictures. I might not take them today. I have a bunch of medical problems. Anyways can I Solder a nut to the bolt. I have mapp gas. Or Could I braze the nut on their I would use a brazzing rod. I want to know maybe if it will hold and not so I could maybe get it out.

mapp gas normally won't heat things up enough, you really need acetylene/oxygen to do this. but a thing that i've done with oil an dpropane torch on brake calipers to free up the bleeder screw is to heat the area with mapp/propane squirt with penetrating oil then take a small hammer and hit area AROuND bolt then repeat this a few times then take a breaker bar in your case snd see if bolt will turn. It works on brake calipers.so it may on your bolt as it's in a cast piece as well. pic included with arrows where to heat. spray oil to semi cool it while tapping with hammer. arrows are for observation only not actual hole.

u dont brake the bolt'????????????????? if its striped.use a chisel and hammer to nock the sucker loose!if no u may need a air chisel. then if no you will need buy a easy out to remove.u drill the bolts center out then you hammer in this shaft then u slide a nut on the shaft put a wrench on the nut and remove.if no still u will need a torch to cut it off.
i hope this helps

WELL,

I MUST BE LOST OR SOMETHING

I READ IT AS THE HEAD BROKE OFF, AND NOW HE MUST EXTRACT THE THREADED END

THE OLE LAY A NUT OVER IT AND WELD THE TWO TOGETHER (BUILD A NEW BOLT) WORKS WELL AT THE MUFFLER SHOP, USING A STICK OR MIG WELDER. USING THESE METHODS, THE MOLTEN MATERIAL...FLOWS LITTLE AND "DRIES" ALMOST INSTANTLY

THE BAD THING ABOUT ATTEMPTING TO BRAZE THEM TOGETHER WITH A TORCH OF ANY KIND IS "FLOW". YOUR BRAZING MATERIAL WILL STICK THE NUT TO ANYTHING IT FLOW ON.

SOLDER IS OUT OF THE QUESTION FOR 3 REASONS, FLOW, HAS LITTLE STRENGTH, AND WILL NOT ADHERE WELL TO FERROUS METALS


THOSE PICS--FRONT SIDE AND REAR WILL TELL US A LOT ON HOW TO ATTACK THIS AND MINIMIZE DAMAGE TO THE POSSIBLE "SALVAGEABLE" PART...REVIEW/PHOTOGRAPH THE "VIEWS" I SORTA REQUESTED IN MY LAST RESPONSE

IF IT WERE POSSIBLE (HYPOTHETICAL) IS THE HOLE THREADED ALL THE WAY THRU...IF THERE WERE NO SHOULDER AND HEAD INVOLVED COULD THE BOLT SCREW ALL THE WAY THRU AND FALL OUT OF THE BACK? (JUST TRYING TO VISUALIZE THE SITUATION W/ NO PICS)

THE MEDIC